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Clutch will not disengage 01 250 SD

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Old 04-26-2013, 09:32 PM
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Cool Clutch will not disengage 01 250 SD

So my buddy has a 01 and has been having problems with the clutch not wanting to disengage so he pulled the trannie and replaced the clutch, clutch plate, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch ball, and the master and slave assembly and the clutch will still not disengage.
The clutch fork is straight and looks good but at this point we are at a loss. Does anyone else have any ideas as to what is going on?
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:31 AM
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could the clutch plate be installed backwards ?,can you see the slave trying to move the fork.sorry not much help without seeing it,changed a lot of clutches but not sure what style is in your truck.
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:37 AM
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But even with the plate in backwards shouldn't the thickness of the plate remain the same and still give you some clutch or at least make it feel like you have clutch because as it sits the pedal doesn't feel like it its even engaging the clutch
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:44 PM
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not sure, but the clutch on older chevy gassers with clutch disc in backwards would leave pedal sitting on the floor. just not familiar with S-Duty clutches,can you see slave cylinder trying to move fork.
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:54 PM
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Does the pedal feel normal? Maybe the slave didn't make it in the detent
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:56 PM
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Air in the line between master and slave cylinders?
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:15 PM
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Replaced and re bled the master and slave cylinder. The clutch pedal does move to the floor but with little resistance and does return on its own but does not feel like it is pushing like normal on the springs and the slave is indeed making contract with the clutch fork and there is no place to inspect the movement of the fork with the slave in place. The fork didn't seem bent but we are on Monday going to replace the fork anyhow just in case. We will also check to see if the clutch plate is in backwards. Any other ideas? We don't want to pull this out more than we already have.
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:20 PM
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re-installed/replaced, that stupid plastic housing that the clutchfork loads against? I know that was the only thing i didnt know, that needed replacing
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:31 PM
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Yea. The ball?? Did the too because the old one was broke
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:46 PM
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I've been thinking about it all day. Fork is the only thing that's common to the two clutches. I, we could be wrong though.
 
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:59 PM
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yea it is the only thing we can thinkof too. Once the trannie is down again we are also going to compair the clutch depth to make sure they are the same thickness
 
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:07 PM
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I just replaced my clutch a couple weeks ago and did some research beforehand. It's advisable to replace the fork with an upgraded one but my '03 apparently had the heavier upgraded fork from the factory. Also, from experience...make sure the throw out bearing is installed correctly! Your dealer should have the clutch fork in stock. That's the first thing I'd verify. Sounds like the "smokin' gun" to me especially since this same problem was there before you got started swapping the clutch. I used a Kevlar bushing instead of a OEM needle bearing pilot bearing. This is where my failure was and the clutch looked fairly new. Post updates! Good luck!
 
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:29 PM
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Any major event happen before this started? Did it start gradually and get worse or was it all of a sudden?

I'd swap in the old hydraulics if they're still around just to help rule things out. Also inspect the bushings and parts of the pedal itself to make sure the problem isn't a loose pedal or worn bushing that's causing the loose feel.

The truck will still run with the clutch disc in backwards. We had what was apparently a drunk cajun put one in of our work trucks that way. The clutch fell apart fairly quickly and was very hard on the 1-2 synchro, but it drove down the road until the truck got back in town and we got it fixed.
 
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