I would like to know if anyone could tell me what the symptoms of bad point timing are. My truck runs like a mule save anything above approx 2200 rpm. Above it starts giving you this bump bump in your pants. Not in drive or tires because does sitting still. Every carb I put on changes squat. If I advance timing all the way I can lessen. I can't get rid of though entirely 😩 going down road it'll force you to approx 38-40 mph max and even at that it ain't pleasant cause the bump bump shakes truck. All ignition parts changed many times. Although I don't know FHs it seems like the points can't take higher dist speed.....flutter? Any thoughts
I'd hate to junks a crank

 

Have you worked on the distributor? There are a few things to look for and you can do it yourself if you have worked on points before.
The distributor has two sets of points, but only one coil. This was done to get a longer dwell on the coil than can reliable be done with a single set of points. Stock these distributors are good for 3500+ rpm (I have read ~4500 rpm, but I have never tested that in person).
I make sure everything is clean, the advance mechanism moves properly, the vacuum brake piston has a good leather button on it, and all lightly oil the advance mechanism and bushings. I set the driver's side points at 0.013 loose, 0.014 tight; and I set the passenger side points at 0.015 loose, 0.016 tight (when I was a little kid my dad had a Ford stroboscope and it set all the distributors to these settings). I set the advance two marks clockwise from center. I back the vacuum break off completely, then turn the bolt in just enough to contact the piston, and tighten down the jam nut. With good points, a good coil, and a condenser this setup revs as high as I'm willing to go.

One thing you probably already know, but worth mentioning in case anyone unfamiliar with front mount flathead distributors is reading, is to make sure to note the position of the drive tang when you take the distributor off the engine. Be sure to set the angle back to that before reinstalling things. I have heard of two instances where someone forced a distributor on and bolted it down with the tang 180 out; the distributor housing broke when the engine was turned over.

 

my shaft was loose ,so points were never adjusted right . if shaft is loose a few thousands points are off a few thousands i sent it to charlie in NY he rebuilt it ,and tries it on his test engine. nice guy to deal with !!!

 

Who's this Charlie???

 

Gees I wish friend. Tighter than the ne HEI in my 390

 

Charlie has posted his contact info on other forums so I'll post it here as well. His reputation is stellar. He redid a 94 carb for me and it works perfectly. Fair price and fast turn around.
Charlie Schwendler
716–622-9159
Cas5845@yahoo.com

 

well I just got told at above email that with a vehicle sitting still it was U joints so I don't share your level of praise
Thanks

 

I have no idea of what you relayed in your email but I stand by my recommendation as do countless of flathead owners on other forums as well. That said I'll leave it up to others to offer solutions/assistance to the problem you posted about.

 

ya well my impression lacketh. Anyhoo I wonder if I can cap a 46 dist with 1 crab cap instead of a 3 piece cooling fan nightmare?

 

Vendors sell the 42 style cap, rotor, and clips to hold the cap down. The distributors themselves are the same.