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After watching several videos, and reviewing posts here on FTE, I summoned up the courage to tackle the fuel filters. Simple task for many here, but if you’ve followed my recent escapades, you know that my confidence level has been taking a proverbial beating...
Well, I’m happy to report that the change went smoothly. Some of my takeaways from the job:
Removing the filter housing - First, disconnect the water sensor plug and hang it out of the way. I ended up loosening the filter housing with a 32mm socket. I tried using a strap wrench first, but couldn’t get it to budge. I read stories of people breaking the housings, so I was hesitant to use the wrench. I’ll probably buy an extra housing at some point ‘just in case’...
Cleaning - I used a Q-Tip and brake cleaner to carefully clean the o-ring groove. I sprayed out the inside of the cup with brake clean and blew it out with my air hose. I lubricated the drain o-ring before snugging it up.
Reassembly - I lubricated the threads with dielectric grease. I’m sure there are plenty of suitable lubricants to use, but I figure this stuff is pretty safe. Only used enough to let the housing tighten up smoothly. The new o-ring came in a sealed bag with instructions not to clean it off. It had lube on it, so I installed it as is. The housing tightened up nicely, right to the hard stop.
Engine compartment filter - Pretty straightforward, lots of instructions for this. Just be sure to put a towel under the fittings before you remove them, as they will drip a bit of fuel.
Priming - I’ve read to do anywhere from three to 12 priming cycles before trying to start. I erred on the high side, and did 12. You can hear the pump stop after 30 seconds, so you can key off and back on for the next cycle. After this it started up with about three seconds of cranking, and ran fine.
The only thing left to do was reset the fuel filter maintenance reminder, which is simple. Now I’m ready for the next 5,000 miles!
I also changed the air filter, since I wasn’t sure when it was last done. The pictures below tell me it was a good time to do it...
Several places make a low profile "fuel filter" socket, they are 1/2" drive and nice and short so you don't get off center and break the dumb housing. I got this one:
Several places make a low profile "fuel filter" socket, they are 1/2" drive and nice and short so you don't get off center and break the dumb housing. I got this one:
Congrats. They say to do it 10 times, in the manual, I just erred on the side of caution and did it 12 times. Glad it went well for you. It's up to you but the manual says to change every 3rd oil change or by 22.5k miles. But your truck, your call.
Here's a pic of the socket I use with a 1/2 inch ratchet.
23 mm
As to the algae problem, I use K100 which is an algaecide and prevents its growth. It does many other things as well.
It's amazing how dirty those air filters get. They must filter a lot of fine dirt out of the air. That fiter thing on the air box is junk. Mine was worse than that when I had mine serviced once. It looked like it had oil on it. I get nothing like that on any filter in my cars. Time I take a look at mine.
There is also a foam bypass filter in the air box. That doesn't need changing as often but since you purchased used, maybe change that too since it could have been in there since new.
There is also a foam bypass filter in the air box. That doesn't need changing as often but since you purchased used, maybe change that too since it could have been in there since new.
kper05,
I wondered about that. It looks pretty clean (still more or less white), and the small paper filter above it was much cleaner than the large part of the paper filter. I assume that foam piece just pulls out of there. Can it be cleaned and re-used? What exactly is its purpose? Just curious.
You can also use an 1 ¼ socket if you don't have a 32mm.
Most Ford diesel master mechanics recommend lubricating large green o-ring with CLEAN engine oil. They do not say anything about "greasing" the threads.
They also recommend you remove the yellow drain plug and lubricate the o-ring on it as it has a tendency of sticking in the housing and then pulled off the drain as you attempt to drain the water.
As far as the air filter, it is ok to change it as soon as you desire but you can be wasting $$$ as the "dirtiness" is not affecting power nor the ability to filter the air. They say check the air flow indicator on the air box to see if the filter is restricting the air flow. Also, regardless if you use this method or not, one should reset the air flow indicator when you replace the air filter(s).
kper05,
I wondered about that. It looks pretty clean (still more or less white), and the small paper filter above it was much cleaner than the large part of the paper filter. I assume that foam piece just pulls out of there. Can it be cleaned and re-used? What exactly is its purpose? Just curious.
Thanks,
John
I believe it's a secondary source of air in case the filter gets clogged with, for example, snow. Someone will know in case I'm wrong.
You can also use an 1 ¼ socket if you don't have a 32mm.
Most Ford diesel master mechanics recommend lubricating large green o-ring with CLEAN engine oil. They do not say anything about "greasing" the threads.
They also recommend you remove the yellow drain plug and lubricate the o-ring on it as it has a tendency of sticking in the housing and then pulled off the drain as you attempt to drain the water.
As far as the air filter, it is ok to change it as soon as you desire but you can be wasting $$$ as the "dirtiness" is not affecting power nor the ability to filter the air. They say check the air flow indicator on the air box to see if the filter is restricting the air flow. Also, regardless if you use this method or not, one should reset the air flow indicator when you replace the air filter(s).
I have to second this. I use to use just diesel fuel that I collected while draining the DFCM and it turned hard as hell. The first time I used clean engine oil, it turned on like a hot knife cutting through butter. But not saying the dielectric grease didn't help you, John.
Thanks for that drain plug O-ring tip, Larry. I don't believe I have done that or did that last time but I will now. Still gotta buy a spare housing with the parts.
You can also use an 1 ¼ socket if you don't have a 32mm.
Most Ford diesel master mechanics recommend lubricating large green o-ring with CLEAN engine oil. They do not say anything about "greasing" the threads.
They also recommend you remove the yellow drain plug and lubricate the o-ring on it as it has a tendency of sticking in the housing and then pulled off the drain as you attempt to drain the water.
As far as the air filter, it is ok to change it as soon as you desire but you can be wasting $$$ as the "dirtiness" is not affecting power nor the ability to filter the air. They say check the air flow indicator on the air box to see if the filter is restricting the air flow. Also, regardless if you use this method or not, one should reset the air flow indicator when you replace the air filter(s).
Thanks, Larry,
I debated adding more lube (oil) to the O-ring, but it looked and felt well lubricated when removed from the sealed plastic wrapper, so I decided to let it be... I did lube the drain O-ring, and it tightened up nice and smooth, so I think it's OK. With respect to lubing (greasing) the threads, it just seemed to me that after cleaning the lower cup with brake cleaner, leaving the threads dry, there was a good change that the friction in the threads would fight me when tightening the housing. It went on nice and smooth, right to the hard stop. Time will tell, I guess, if the grease will cause any issues, but I rather doubt it. Also, I did reset my air flow indicator, for whatever it's worth.
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