2009 6.8 V10 Parasitic Draw
2009 6.8 V10 Parasitic Draw
Howdy,
I am new to the site and looking for help. I drive a 2009 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab with the 6.8 V10 and a 4 inch lift on 35x12.50-20's. I have some sort of electrical draw that will drain the battery over the course of about 3 days. I have it set up to go into the shop next week but if I could pick your brains for possible causes that would be great.
Thanks,
Collin
I am new to the site and looking for help. I drive a 2009 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab with the 6.8 V10 and a 4 inch lift on 35x12.50-20's. I have some sort of electrical draw that will drain the battery over the course of about 3 days. I have it set up to go into the shop next week but if I could pick your brains for possible causes that would be great.
Thanks,
Collin
I had an issue a while back with an old car and was able to use this method
Set up volt Meter between the negative terminal and negative cable. So it will be neg terminal on battery ----volt Meter ---- other side of volt Meter ---- neg wire going to truck
Now you lock all door and see what it reads. Should be very low. If it's not then you start pulling fuses and see what fuse effects the number to go down. If I remember correctly should be like .01 Mili amps but don't quote me. Whatever fuse you pull to make that number go down there's your problem.
Someone will have some more input on this but it worked for me
Matt
Set up volt Meter between the negative terminal and negative cable. So it will be neg terminal on battery ----volt Meter ---- other side of volt Meter ---- neg wire going to truck
Now you lock all door and see what it reads. Should be very low. If it's not then you start pulling fuses and see what fuse effects the number to go down. If I remember correctly should be like .01 Mili amps but don't quote me. Whatever fuse you pull to make that number go down there's your problem.
Someone will have some more input on this but it worked for me
Matt
Long story short I took it to two different shops with two different answers which were both wrong. I then with the help of a buddy hooked a voltmeter between the positive cable and the positive post. After narrowing it down it wound up being the factory Sync Module. I just unplugged it since I use a kenwood double din display. It took me 45 mins to diagnose and fix the problem. One shop charged me 145 to tell me it was my remote start. The other shop charged me 120 to tell me it was my previous Kenwood DDX770. I then believed the second shop and went and purchased a new Kenwood. Two days later my truck was dead again. All in all I am happy with the outcome. I had an excuse to buy the new head unit with Apple Carplay and wire in the factory steering controls and run the factory back up camera to HU. A 45 min fix ended up getting me for 1100 all said and done but at least it wasn't something major
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61ford4u
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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