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Grasping at Straws....What Do I Try Next?

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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 12:13 PM
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Grasping at Straws....What Do I Try Next?

Originally Posted by Sparky83
sounds like its not building pressure... how strong is the crank?? if the engines not turning over fast enough it wont build the needed pressure to fire the injectors.

Good strong crank...I put the charger on the batteries, so no issues there.

Originally Posted by Per4mance
Did you make sure the oring was on right on the HPOP when you put it together?

I just took it apart to verify just that and all HPOP O-rings, stand pipe O-rings, and log style oil rail seals are good (or at least I don't hear/see any leaks from them).

Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel
I would also make sure the IPR isn't preventing the truck from starting. I had this problem on a 2006 F350. They said they took it to get inspected and it wouldn't restart after, wouldn't restart cold either. We check the ICP while cranking and it shows all the familiar signs of dummy plugs. We replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes and the pressure got higher at 350 psi, but still no start. The IPR was replaced and it fired right up no questions asked.

I would also use shop air and make sure one of the top injector seals aren't leaking. One of mine are and my '05 will start run and drive, but not long after it's fully warmed up, it stalls and will only restart cold. I have the revised STC fitting and standpipes, but did the HPO rail nipple cups a little under 3 years ago. Just something else to consider.

I replaced the IPR and IPC while it was apart and used shop air to test the injector O-rings. With the HPOP out I put shop air directly into the branch tubes, I don't see or hear any leaks from the O-rings.


All good ideas...it's definitely not building pressure. The gauge only shows that I build 200 psi while cranking.


I replaced the stock HPOP with the Dieselite unit and I added oil three different times to prime the HPOP and when I pulled it out to verify that the O-rings were in place correctly, the HPOP was full of oil, so I'm pretty sure that it is pumping OK.


The dash gauge is the only one I have for the LPOP and it is reading closer to the "H" than is it to the "L". Again, I'm pretty sure it's OK since it shows pressure and I get oil in the oil filter housing and I see oil at the HPOP


I get fuel at the fuel bowel.


I hear all of the injectors flutter at key on while I wait for the glow plugs to heat up.

I'm starting to think that I must have missed something obvious or there's something strange going on.


I know there's a ton of threads here, but I'm just not able to find the answer...I'm at a loss for what to do next.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 01:11 PM
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Grasping at straws here too, but could you have a short, or open circuit, in the wiring to the IPR?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 01:34 PM
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I forgot to note that I put a new pigtail in on that circuit...maybe I should pull the shielding back even further? At this point anything is worth a try.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 01:59 PM
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Did you use OEM o-ring on the J-tube or the o-rings supplied with the Adrenaline pump?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
Did you use OEM o-ring on the J-tube or the o-rings supplied with the Adrenaline pump?


The O-rings in the Dieselite HPOP are Ford O-rings and they were in the Ford packaging. So good to go there!


I don't know about the Adrenaline kit.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 12:19 AM
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You need to deadhead the pump to see if it's making any pressure,
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
You need to deadhead the pump to see if it's making any pressure,
Well said Sean, but with some recent things I have seen, I would want to see 4000 psig (or close to it) deadheaded - not just a few thousand! I still wonder about the IPR wiring though.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 07:56 AM
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What to do next?

Some items worth checking:

1. Verify the VREF signal voltage at the sensor connectors.

2. Verify wire continuity/resistance on each circuit.

3. Inspect the check valve located under the oil filter inside the housing.

Good Luck.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
You need to deadhead the pump to see if it's making any pressure,
Would that mean using a (known) good IPR and ensuring it's seated? or an IPR air "test" fitting with a pipe plug or a gage screwed into it? (I have a 0-5000psi hydraulic gage)
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bismic
Well said Sean, but with some recent things I have seen, I would want to see 4000 psig (or close to it) deadheaded - not just a few thousand! I still wonder about the IPR wiring though.

I couldn't work on it last night, so I was planning to pull the wire harness and check the pigtail again. That is if the weather settles tonight, right now it's raining cats and dogs around here.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fixxxer-upper

3. Inspect the check valve located under the oil filter inside the housing.

Good Luck.


Which one are you thinking? Number 1, 2, or 3??



 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 02:27 PM
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The one next to #3,that's the check valve.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 02:29 PM
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You sure you have the wires going to the right wires after you changed the pig tails. I'd double check all that. Then use a scanner to verify.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Per4mance
The one next to #3,that's the check valve.


When she was running good I actually had that one plugged so that the oil could not pass and was forced through the oil cooler bypass at all times. When I put the new HPOP in I took the plug out. I will plug it again and see what happens.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by HT32BSX115
Would that mean using a (known) good IPR and ensuring it's seated? or an IPR air "test" fitting with a pipe plug or a gage screwed into it? (I have a 0-5000psi hydraulic gage)

At this point a gauge would give you true readings. That is if it's not also
got issues. The guys over at >>> https://www.hhcdiesel.com
do shave some test tools that might be handy.

The diagnostic deadhead plugs at this point are needed I think.
 
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