I'm building a 51 ford F1 rat truck. I bought the cab and front clip in an effort to save it from the crusher. It's got the original gauges in it and I am retrofitting a newer fuel injected engine into it. I will be running 12 volts. So a few questions:

1. Were all 51 f1-f8 6volt systems?
- I did some reading up on installing the 6-volt resistors on the gauges and understand that.

2. I need new sensors to make my gauges read correctly.
- does anybody have part numbers for the correct senders for the oil pressure, water temp, and fuel level?
- I need 6-volt senders, right?

3. What is the correct ohm readings for the fuel level sender in these trucks?

4. Is the original ignition switch a 3-position switch? (Acc, off, run?)
- this is how mine is then has a button the left of the column which I believe is the start button?

5. The wiper motor appears to be vacuum powered? But the switch is frozen.
- is there an inexpensive way to convert this to electronic or get the vacuum motor operational again?

6. Does anybody have a complete wiring diagram for these trucks?


I'm sure I'll have more questions but let's start with these. Thank you all in advance for your help!

 

Welcome!
A couple of answers:
1. Yes, the 51s were all 6 volt Positive Ground
2. If you are converting to 12 volt and are keeping the guages with converters, you don't need 6V senders.
3. No idea
4. Originally, the truck had a two position ignition switch. You are correct, the silver button on the left side of the dash is the starter button.
5. Wipers were typically vacuum (not sure when electrics were available. There are a few rebuilders avaiable. The cheapest solution is to remove, clean, and lubricate the existing unit. Often they can be coaxed back into service. Check out wiperman.com as a rebuilder.
6. A good source for flathead info (and parts) is Van Pelt Sales. You'll find a trove of diagrams: Flathead Electrical Wiring Diagrams

Oh, by the way, we really like pictures.

 

I was under the impression that I needed a 6volt sender since I was still running only 6volts through my gauges. I'm going to be using a runtz style reducer.

Good to hear that with the ignition switch. I have what appears to be the original key so that's pretty neat! I'll have to look into the wiper motor and switch more. Maybe I can free it up and get it operational. If not I'll have to engineer and fabricate something to make an electric motor work.

Here's a picture from last weekend. Like I said all I had to begin with is the complete cab and front clip. A Buddy and I fabricated a frame and will be finishing the frame this weekend. I'll be building front upper and lower tubular control arms and a 4-link rear suspension. I also have to build a box for it yet. . .

 

Welcome to FTE, it's the BEST place for help and information on these old ford trucks. I'm not a big fan of the Rat Rod styles, but I'm glad you saved those very useable body parts from the crusher. For that I thank you.
BTW, that's not exactly an F1, the cabs F1-F6 were all the same, but the fenders were different, your front fenders are the larger F2-F6 fenders (larger wheel openings).
Regarding the wipers, there are electric motor kits to fit out there. Here is the one I'm installing in my 51 F1
1951-52 Ford Pickup Electric Wiper Kit - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

 

The only senders that will work perfectly with your original gauges are 6v. Honestly, you'd probably be better off with new gauges for several reasons. First is, the water temp senders are very long compared to modern ones, and won't likely fit in the port on your new engine. You're going to be using a new gas tank, it will be easier to match a sender and gauge on that than to find a sender that will be accurate with the old gauge.

The old gauges and senders don't work off simple resistance like modern gauges. They use the King-Seeley principle, which uses heaters in the senders and gauges to operate. See below for a sample.

 

Yes my mistake. Originally this truck was an F5 but I'm building a F1 style truck, or similar to. I suppose I should've stated that to begin with. That wiper kit isn't priced too bad. I may end up going that route.


I thought about that but I really like the look of these old gauges. Plus my budget for this entire build is pretty tight at just $4000. There is plenty of space in the manifold for a long temp gauge. When I look though I see 2 different styles, a single wire and a 2 post one. Do I need bot or just 1 of them? Do you have part numbers for the 6v oil pressure and water temp senders? For the fuel sender everything I see is rated in ohms for these trucks. I'm just not sure what I need since some sources say 73-10 and others say differently.

 

2. Ignore me, just listen to Ross. My F1 lesson for the day.

 

8A-10884 - water temperature sender (you only need this one)

41A-9278 - oil pressure sender

Do an Advanced Search on "gas gauge sender" in this forum and you'll find lots of old threads about which senders people have tried. May be easiest to replace the actual gauge in the original cluster with one from a '70's truck, some fit right in and those do work on resistance. (same for the other gauges too).

 

Thanks on the part numbers. Is it possible to have the original fuel gauge converted to work on resistance?

 

Just put the guts of a 70s gauge in your 52 cluster, then you can use the more modern sender.....


If you get them from the junkyard, then you might even be more oldskool and on budget!!


Best of luck with your build!!!

 

Did some research and found 67-72 f100 gauge guts will work. Lucky for me there is a guy parting out a 68 f100 nearby and I'm going Sunday to get the gauges and sending units.

 

Thought I'd update:

I pulled the gauge cluster out of a 68 F100 today and pulled it apart. The fuel and temp gauges are the same as the 51 and they are 12 volt. They also sweep the same way. I will be swapping them over and reusing my original gauge faces. I was able to test the gauges before I pulled them and they worked so I also pulled the fuel level sending unit. So that problem is solved!

So if I'm correct I will only have to put a resistor on the oil pressure gauge and get the correct sending unit for that, right? Also when I route the new wire through the ammeter loop I need to route it the opposite way it currently is?