When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Need help: How to remove intake manifold? UPDATE: Duh!
I am trying to get prelim stuff done before my brother-in-law comes to help me put on my new heads. I have everything off except the intake manifold and the old heads. I've got the bolts out but i am not able to lift it off. The corner where the coil is mounted i got loose by prying a screwdriver under it.
I don't want to break it or damage anything. What is the best way to break it loose?
I've had my share of intakes off the Y blocks and can think of no hidden bolts or any problems getting them off. Perhaps someone used a sticky sealer. Might try a wooden wedge tapped in lightly, keeping pressure on it.
My dad used to use Permatex Form-a-Gasket on everything...I still run into engaine parts on these old trucks that have be cemented together by one PO or another. I usually get a start where I can and then "persuade" it along until it breaks free. Good luck...
I've had my share of intakes off the Y blocks and can think of no hidden bolts or any problems getting them off. Perhaps someone used a sticky sealer. Might try a wooden wedge tapped in lightly, keeping pressure on it.
I removed 4 bolts on each side. It is possible that my rebuilder used Perma-tex or a sticky sealer. I'll try the wooden wedge.
The manifold probably was not taken off since the rebuild in 1979.
Cool Abe, I'm glad you got it off. Heah, if you can rack up another few dozen embarrassing happenings, you just may qualify to join my "Duh, guess what I did Club". By the way don't ever be embarrassed, it takes a real man to share an error, because it will help other people later struggling with the same problem. I think your doing a great job on your truck. "ROCK ON"
Before one of you wise guys say if there ain't no pictures it didn't happen, here is the proof!
I cleaned up the mounting surfaces of the intake manifold with a razor blade. I read somewhere that I should take 80 grit sandpaper to them also. What do you think?
My BIL will be here later this week to help me put on the new (used) heads. I still have to get broken studs out of my new (used) exhaust manifold and then paint them and the crossover pipe. I am going with satin black as it I think it looks better than the so called natural which almost looks silver. Someone on here, I forget who (sorry), has his painted satin black and his looked real good.
Also, thanks for the harassment guys! If I didn't get it for dumb moves I wouldn't think you cared!
I had 25 lbs of compression on one cylinder. It had very little power. Dennis, Pinto Plumber, had a pair of heads rebuilt by the same guy that rebuilt my engine in 1979 that he sold to me. Dennis and others I talked to, including here at FTE, believe the new heads will solve my compression problem. The guy that put in my rear main seal last summer said my bottom end and crank looked practically new. Also Dennis's heads have hardened seats.
Go ahead and take that valley cover off and clean any gunk out of there. Having it off will help in getting the rods back in the correct place - you'll need a new gasket.
Also, don't turn that engine with the heads off - leave all exactly like it is and be sure to put all the rods and the rocker arms back on in the same order they are now. This will make timing of the engine much easier - try not to turn the distributor either. Gagging the rocker arm correctly can be a challenge, but do the best you can before the first starting, then fine tune them. A lose rocker can spell the end of an nice 239.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
