ok so my 2001 f250 with the 5.4 is coming time to start getting my truck ready for daily driving again It really doesn't leave the house much but I am about to have to start driving it about 45mins one way and do not feel like sitting on the side of the road.
my parts list has reached about $4,365.00 and I do not have that kind of money at this time. so my question is what to yall is most important to fix first?
the truck has not had shocks in 15 years, it also has the factory tie rod ends and ball joints. I am unsure of the water pump and fan clutch, and all of the cooling system, I know I have a exhaust leak on the pass side exhaust manifold and was thinking about replacing both sides with new hardware. also it needs tires so I was going to replace all 5 including the spare and have a alignment done after I replaced the tie rod ends while the shop had the truck putting new tires on it.
also I was thinking about replacing all the coil packs I know some have been replaced but would feel better with all new replaced at the same time I was looking at accel super coils for the price for 8 of them. and also replacing the valve cover gaskets as my driver side has signs of a small leak. I have already replaced the spark plugs.
I also would like to put fresh fluid in both axles and the Tcase. what brand would yall recommend I have used royal purple in the past never really could tell a difference but the science behind it helped in spending that much for fluid.
any help would be great

 

People love to spend someone's money for them.

I would start with items such as new shocks and fix the exhaust leak(s).

I would take the truck to an alignment shop and have them assess your front end for possible repairs needed. You may have to pay for an alignment but they should tell you if any parts are worn and need replacing.

I would then have a mechanic check the fan clutch and water pump if you feel it is near replacement time.

I would also have someone with a high end scanner check for misfire of the engine. You may only need only need plugs and not coil packs.

As good as people on here are at helping, ask a professional their opinion might save you dollars you do not have. Remember my first statement, people love to spend someone's money for them.

 

Reliability is good.

Shock replacement is probably a good idea. As mentioned, have the truck checked at an alingment shop. Replace what is worn.

If it doesn't overheat, then don't worry about it for now. Make sure your serpentine belt is OK.

More of a safety item, but exhaust leaks can get you killed. Repair as needed.

If tires are worn, replace. Only have tie rod ends replaced if they are worn. Replacing good parts does nothing but empty your wallet.

Accel Super Coils do nothing but drain money from your wallet. If you have a miss, then trouble shoot it, otherwise don't worry. 12 failed COP will not leave you stranded.

Fix it if needed.

It won't make any huge difference. I'd leave the fluids alone if you haven't been driving in a lot of water.

 

thank you for the reply the truck was driven by my father in law when he had in muddy fields and who knows what else while I was cleaning the truck I pulled back the vinyl floor covering and found water mud mix on the driver side all the way over to the trans tunnel and right under the gas pedal which leads me to think someone at some point in time has been in the mud or water.
I mentioned the tie rod ends because the truck has sloppy steering and I know the tie rod ends are not going to fix that issues but could help to tighten it up a bit. but like you said if its not broke don't fix it but my wife can not stand the steering in the truck its all over the place constant movement of the steering wheel to stay straight

 

Tie rod ends may or may not be the problem. You might need a new/rebuilt steering sector. I would take to front end shop and have them evaluate the steering so you know what needs to be replaced.

 

Your description of the way it steers ( from my arm chair ) sounds like ball joints.

They are a known weak spot in the front ends of the 4x4 superduty of this era. Im assuming it's 4x4 because of the large amounts of mudd you found in it.

 

yes it is 4x4 and I was thinking ball joints as well as the lower ones look like the boots have been leaking grease out and who knows if they have been touched in a long time I greased them when I changed the oil about 5,000 miles ago along with the other parts that have grease fittings. and it took me awhile to clean the crud off the zerk fittings to do that.
let me just say that for being what it was and how it was treated over the years the truck starts and runs good and power wise it still feels good. its not going to win any race but it has been getting me from point A to B, not the best on gas but it is a 8,000+ pound truck that is 4wheel drive so cant have the best of both worlds

 

Since it has greasable ball joints try jacking up the front end and greasing the ball joints without and pressure on them. While it is up pry up at an angle on the tires with a crow bar and see if there is any play in them ( ball joints).

Bad front axel ujoints can slow cause freaky handeling. If you lock in the front hubs but leave the truck in 2wd and she steers more consistently the knuckle u joints in the axel shafts are an issue.

Sometime greasing the ballpoints with the truck in the air and the pressure off them can buy you some time and tighten them up until you can get around to replacing them. I personally always take the pressure off the ball joints when greasing them, I don't know if it actually makes a difference but I have over 300k on the set I have in there now and their still tight. That is how my grandfather taught me to do it 30 years ago so I'll stick with it.