Good grief, can't nothing be easy! I started installing my aftermarket keyless entry system on my '16 f250 xl, manual Windows/locks. I installed the front and rear door lock actuators. Bent my rods and connected them to the factory rods. Everything was going good until...


This is the boot going from the jamb to the door. How in the heck are you suppose to feed power through this? I started just to drill a hole in the connector on the side that nothing was pinned on, but got to thinking about the jamb side. What a pain and I don't know what to do at this point.

 

After some research online, this is a molex plug and a common problem for people doing stereo upgrades, and unfortunately, haven't found anyone who's had success running wires through the boots on superduty's because of the style of the female plug. I've got a couple options, neither I like, but I guess I will have to live with it if I want keyless entry. I'm sure some of you guys that are really good with electronics could figure out how to open these plugs up and pin a wire in an open spot, but that's above my pay grade, and a massive amount of work removing the female side in the door jamb. You would think that with all the custom stuff that get done to these trucks(i.e., work and ambulance/rescue. Not stereo and customizing), ford would have made it just a little easier.

 

Hi Ron94150 One of the sites I go to when I want to look up schematics when it comes to vehicle electrical is BBBindustries. http://www.bbbind.com/

f you go to their site and scroll over to technical information and then the menu should drop down, select (TSB’s) and Wiring Diagrams and click on that ( you will have to register but it is free ) and then after that you can log in and look up your vehicle make, model and year, engine and then add the specifics ( lariat, xlt, xl and you should be able to get the schematics and see what pin does what in that connector.

Hope that helps

 

Thanks, I will hold onto that link for future reference. But I wan't need it on this install, I'm not going to mess with this plug because of the extreme headache of getting the female out. I'm going to buy a couple aftermarket 1/2" door jamb boots and run the wires through those.

 

That ought to work, I will keep my finger crossed for you that the rest of the install is smooth sailing.

 

Was up until 4:30 this morning, but my install is complete. All time combined, I have about 9 hours in this install. Nothing accept mounting and attaching the actuators was easy. The wiring harness had to be extended at both front doors and cut to go through the rear door molex connectors. There was a lot of fishing wires in some hard to get to areas. I'm going to try my hand at a very non detailed write up after I'm feeling a little more awake. My two year old decided to wake up extra early this morning at 6:45 so I'm a zombi. I managed to run the wires to the front doors without drilling any holes and not messing with the molex connector. Hopefully someone else that wants to do this, can save themselves some time knowing where they can run the wires.

 

Ok guys, I know there hasn't been much interest in this thread, but I know there are a lot of people out there with manually equipt late model superduty's that would like keyless entry, especially crew cabs, which don't even have a keyhole in the rear doors. This is going to make my life so much easier with a toddler in a car seat in the rear.

I bought my kit off eBay, there are higher priced kits available from brand names, but most of those come with alarms and remote start, which I really didn't want or want to mess with. This is my kit, the remotes feel and look quality, and the actuators look to be quality. It was well packaged, and I was happy with my purchase. Admittedly, the wiring harness was cheap, and not long enough for the front doors.

Running the wiring is pretty straight forward. You have 5 wires running to each front door, and 2 wires to each rear door. Running the wires to the rear doors isn't to bad, you can drill through both the female and male ends of the molex connectors, but you will have to cut the bullet connectors off the keyless wiring harness to feed it through, then butt connect them back on. You will also have to fish the wire through the boot.
The front doors is where things get interesting. The molex plug is an issue. You can't get the female end out to drill through it, short of taking the dash out. So this is what I came up with on the drivers side.i used the grommet on the door side hiding the mirror nut and a grommet on the jamb side hiding a dash nut. I then used some wire loom on the wires. Some black rtv at the grommets prevents any water from following the wires into the interior/door. Fishing the wire through the door isn't the easiest thing. You have a very small hole that you have to feed through. I removed my speaker and slid my big hand and arm up there, once I got my fish in the mirror area, I used needle nose pliers to pull it out the grommet hole. The passenger side is a little different. There is no grommet on the jamb side. I removed the little plastic seal plate, and luckily, under there, is a hole that the factory put some kind of caulking/sealer on and then painted over. I used my pocket knife to cut a slit in it. After doing the drivers door, the passenger door was a breeze, but you will have to do some stretching to get your fish pushed into the interior, it's a lot harder than the drivers side. It is a tight hole, and is very high. Some more black rtv to seal everything and some wire loom, then reattach the plastic plate/seal.ATTACH]153566[/ATTACH]

Behind the drivers side kick panel, there is an easy existing ground to get to. For power, I used one of the factory pass thru wires. Then went straight to the power distribution box. The kit has a fuss already on the power wire. The kit has two boxes, and actuator controller, and a brain/receiver. Wire these together according to the provided diagram. I mounted the actuator with some double side tape behind the kick panel. There was a perfect spot for it. The receiver, I mounted to a bracket above the brake pedal using some zip ties.

Doing this again, I could probable do it in about 6 hours. Keep your wires nice and neat and tuck them in the factory plastic tracks and tie them up under the dash. When I ran my wires to the passenger side, I ran them with a factory harness just under the steering kick panel to the center, then pulled my vinyl flooring back and kept it tucked under there to the passenger kick panel.

I also installed a Hopkins back up camera. This took about 45 minutes and my wife could have done it. It's super easy and the camera and monitor quality is as good as my wife's factory unit on her escape. It has back up sensors and they can be turned off. I snapped a picture of my monitor location. The camera messes with the monitor, but it is very clear and shows up Very good at night.Attachment 1

I know this is a no brainier for some of you guys, but I hope it prepares someone for the headaches of the front molex connector and saves them some time. It's a cheap and very worthy mod to a truck that didn't come with keyless entry. I'm considering buying another actuator and splicing/extending one of the rear door harness to the tailgate so it locks and unlocks with the doors.