I bought my 1952 Ford from my grandpa just 2 weeks ago, and he had it running the week before I bought it. He got it running by changing the points but it stalled after driving up and down the street. When I came to pick it up, it wouldn't start and saw that there was no fuel getting to the carb so replaced the fuel pump. Once we did that we disconnected the fuel line going in to the carb, cranked it and fuel flowed out, but it would not start. So next I took apart the carburetor and soaked it in carb cleaner, got a cleaner kit and now we are getting fuel flowing through the bowl into the venturi. I also checked the spark plugs by grounding them and cranking the engine and I am getting spark on all of the cylinders and it is not starting. At this point I have talked to my grandpa and we are both lost as to why it won't start; especially since it was running just a week before then it stalled.
If anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

 

If it is getting spark at the spark plugs, pull a plug or two and see what they look like as if covered with fuel.
If plugs look OK I would go back to the carb.
Don't quite understand "getting fuel flowing through the bowl into the venturi". Do you mean continually?
TractormanBill

 

You might want to check that the rotor is aligned properly. Do you know how to check for top dead center on the number 1 plug?

 

The spark plugs are not covered with fuel. But I mean when I push the gas pedal fuel is flowing into the carburetor, not continually. So it seems like there is not any issues with the carburetor.

 

Ok I'm not sure how to do that. But the thing I am confused about is that just a few weeks ago it was starting and now it isn't, so is there anything that could've happened from a few weeks ago to cause the rotor to be misaligned? Another thing I forgot to mention is that before when we sprayed starting fluid into it it would fire up for a few seconds, but now it won't at all even with starting fluid.

 

Is the spark a nice robust blue spark? or a weak yellowish spark?

 

I was just thinking that when your Grandfather put the new points in the distributor he might have misaligned the rotor. If that is the case then the plugs wouldn't be getting spark at the proper time.

 

Ahh yeah I see what you're saying. That would make sense, but I am not quite clear on how to check if it is aligned. I am going to call my grandpa tonight to see what he says. Thanks.


And to answer Albuq's question, yes it is a good blue spark.

 

It wouldn't hurt to pop the cap and see what's going on. Usually if the rotor wasn't seated (it's a D-shaped shaft it slips onto) and the cap is put on, it will crack either the cap or the rotor. Also check to see that the rotor is spinning when you crank it.

 

What do you get when cranking? Any pops? Backfires? Gas smell?

Any change in result with the starting fluid?

 

Suck, squish, bang, blow. In other words, it takes three things to make an engine run - air, fuel and spark. If you have visible fuel (good fuel, that is) and a good, visible spark it's time to check the air portion of the equation.

During cranking is the time that the timing gear and its teeth are most prone to breakage - that sudden snap of torque from the starter has been the kiss of death for many timing gears. I'm not well versed with the flat six or eight (you haven't specified which you have) but it is possible to shear a tooth or two and lose not only adequate compression but also the timing of when the spark occurs in relation to compression.

Remove the #1 spark plug and remove the coil wire, making certain the coil wire is far enough away that it can't spark to the distributor. While someone 'bumps' the starter from the cab hold a finger over the spark plug hole and eventually you'll feel a 'whoosh' of air as the compression cycle occurs - there won't be any guessing when it happens. At that point quit cranking the engine and look for the timing marks (wherever they may be on your particular engine, employ shop manual.) Align the marks by turning the crankshaft (turn the ignition OFF first!) by whatever means is easiest (socket and bar, huge channelocks, fan blade, etc.) and in the direction of the shortest distance - in other words don't turn the crankshaft 180°+ to align the marks. Look at your distributor cap and follow the spark wire from #1 spark plug to it. Make a mark on the distributor body coinciding with the location of that #1 wire's location. Now remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing at the mark you made. It should be very close to aligning with your mark. If it is, you should perform a compression test to be certain of the engine's health. If the compression is in spec' you'll need to go back to checking the fuel and spark.

 

Also, is it possible you and/or Gramps may have re-placed the plug wires on the wrong plugs? Usually accompanied by some backfires or burps but not always.

 

Did Gramps replace the condensor along with the points?

Many mechanics when replacing the contact points would not change the condensor "back in the day" if it was running well.

These days this is especially good advice because many if not most of the condensors manufactured and sold today are defective and will not work at all, only for a few miles, or are intermittent etc. It's worth reinstalling the previously used known good condenser, if there is now an ignition problem after replacement.

 

I am getting a good spark, so there is not a problem with the condenser right?

Also yes it is cranking fine but with all that cranking and no starting I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to need to charge the battery. Especially since before it was at least starting on starter fluid and now not at all, maybe it is not cranking fast enough to get started because of a weak battery?

I just talked to my grandpa on the phone and he said that he checked the timing before I picked it up and that was all ok.

 

Yes an engine that won't start is pretty much a torture test on steroids for the battery and starter too. Allow the starter to cool down several minutes after any extended cranking, before trying again.

Place the battery on a low amp rate and let it charge overnight, this is important.

Yeah, if you're getting a fat bluish spark that snaps loud in the air, probably OK. It's just that condensors cause a lot of trouble today it's worth bringing up.