RDS tank install
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RDS tank install
I finally got my RDS tank ordered. I decided on the 60 gallon black powder coated tank/toolbox with the full top that encloses the fill cap and everything when the lid closes. It should get to the retailer tomorrow and I'm picking it up Friday if nothing delays it. I have read through every RDS tank install thread on here at least twice and it looks pretty straight forward. I'm keeping it simple and just using the gravity flow kit. I got a 7/8" metal cutting hole saw today and a rubber grommet that will fit the hole in the bed for the fuel line. I plan to cut the fuel filler hose with my PVC cutter if I can get to it easy enough. If anyone who has done the install has any pointers or tips that might make the job a little easier I would appreciate hearing them. I plan to do the install Saturday if the weather is good.
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From: Wellington, KS
I've done two RDS installs: one gravity, and the current 60 gal is Airtex pump fed. Both worked perfectly. Good luck with your install. The range is really nice, I go 1800 miles on two fill ups
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Central TX
When I did my install last spring I just used a razor type blade to cut hose with a slight sawing motion. Worked great, maybe 30 seconds at most. I spent most of the time figuring out how to miss the supports under the bed where the tank is to bolted to the floor. Had to move tank about 3/4" back from front of bed, to miss a support under the bed to be able to bolt the tank front middle support to the bed and still get a nut/washer on the bolt. I used the smallest drill I had to drill pilot holes so I could check to make sure that I could get to the bolt under bed and get nuts/washers on each of the 3 tank supports. If you are not going to use a on/off electrical solenoid, it is an easy install. Doing electrical with the switches is more time consuming. I do like the ability to be able to control the RDS filling based on when I want. It is really a nice feature to have for your long trips. It got a lot of use during the summer.
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When I did my install last spring I just used a razor type blade to cut hose with a slight sawing motion. Worked great, maybe 30 seconds at most. I spent most of the time figuring out how to miss the supports under the bed where the tank is to bolted to the floor. Had to move tank about 3/4" back from front of bed, to miss a support under the bed to be able to bolt the tank front middle support to the bed and still get a nut/washer on the bolt. I used the smallest drill I had to drill pilot holes so I could check to make sure that I could get to the bolt under bed and get nuts/washers on each of the 3 tank supports. If you are not going to use a on/off electrical solenoid, it is an easy install. Doing electrical with the switches is more time consuming. I do like the ability to be able to control the RDS filling based on when I want. It is really a nice feature to have for your long trips. It got a lot of use during the summer.
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Gary, how much fuel does your 60 gallon tank actually hold. I decided on the 60 because I assumed it may only hold 50 usable gallons. I also assumed there would be a few gallons that would remain below the drain hole and never make it to the factory tank through the gravity feed. Thanks.
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Central TX
Quick correction-my tank is 1" from front of bed. The 20 x 55 tank is what I have. The most gallons that I believe I've had the patience to put in the tank is 52 gals. The sight gauge is nice but only close, as far as accuracy. I put 20 gals in the first time and measured it with a yardstick and marked that line. Keep that, and you can always calculate exactly what you have in the tank. I throw mine in that 1" space between the bed and the back of the tank. There will be between 2-5 gals that possibly will always stay in tank. It depends on how tank was drilled and bunghole installed. For mileage calculations I count the tank as having 50 gals if completely filled and my truck tank as having 30 gals. So 80 gals @ 9 mpg towing gives me a 720 mile theoretical range. Usually do better than 9 mpg, but rather plan on worst case.
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That is exactly what I was expecting. I get around 9mpg towing, but on occasion 10+. I almost went with the 90 but decided I didn't want to give up that extra 10" of bed space. I've been towing for 2 decades and I have only gone over 600 miles in one day once. Normally I try to stay around 400 miles per day. 720 mile towing range means I don't need to find a fuel station anymore where I can get in and out with my 39' 5th wheel. My plan is to only stop at rest areas from now on and walk the dogs and the kids and grab some lunch from the fridge and press on. I think the tank will pay for itself with the money we save passing up the fast food stops and making our own meals on the road. I normally go fuel up once I unhook the 5th wheel at the RV park every night we stop. So with the tank that will be the only fueling I need to do.
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I have an RDS 60 gallon toolbox combo installed in my 2015 F250 SB. Installation was pretty straight forward. I did tap the vent into the truck vent because if I filled my tank up to about 55 gallons on a hot day it would weep into the bed. I also installed a solenoid valve and pump to speed up the transfer of fuel. I used the upfitter switches to control the valve and pump.
I can now get about 750 miles on a single fuel load when dragging my 30ft fifthwheel, which means no stops for fuel until I have parked for the night.
I can now get about 750 miles on a single fuel load when dragging my 30ft fifthwheel, which means no stops for fuel until I have parked for the night.
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I have an RDS 60 gallon toolbox combo installed in my 2015 F250 SB. Installation was pretty straight forward. I did tap the vent into the truck vent because if I filled my tank up to about 55 gallons on a hot day it would weep into the bed. I also installed a solenoid valve and pump to speed up the transfer of fuel. I used the upfitter switches to control the valve and pump.
I can now get about 750 miles on a single fuel load when dragging my 30ft fifthwheel, which means no stops for fuel until I have parked for the night.
I can now get about 750 miles on a single fuel load when dragging my 30ft fifthwheel, which means no stops for fuel until I have parked for the night.
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Ok, I see how you tied it in. How about filling up? I normally fill up when I reach 1/2 tank. I only use about 1/4 tank per week so I fill up every other Friday. So if I don't plan to keep a bunch of fuel in the bed tank sloshing around and getting old, when I do decide to fill up both tanks do I just make sure the bed tank valve is off and fill up the factory tank, then fill up the bed tank and open the valve? I read somewhere to never open the factory fuel cap if the bed tank is on with fuel. If I used more fuel I would just always fill up the bed tank and not worry about it but I really only use less than 10 gallons per week normal driving. How does everyone manage their fuel for normal driving and towing?
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Central TX
Unless I am traveling long distances, I add some fuel to both tanks. ie-truck is a less less than half full and bed tank is basically empty - I might put 15 gals of so in truck tank and put maybe 20 gals in truck bed tank. When truck fuel gauge is less than 3/4 full, I turn on up-fitter switch no 4, which opens a solenoid to start fuel flowing to the main truck tank. That is enough fuel to go at least 350 miles. Just try to keep some fresh fuel in both tanks and never let the truck bed tank go stale. I just vary the fuel fill qty based on how many miles I expect to be driving in the next few weeks to a month. Currently I just have a solenoid valve to turn the fuel flow from bed tank to main tank on or off.
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Sounds like a plan. It got there today so I'm making the trek to OKC to pick it up in the morning. I should have it installed by Saturday afternoon. I guess I'll put 10 or so gallons in the first time to make sure I don't have any leaks. If it checks out I'll fill up the truck and put enough in the aux for my camping trip next weekend.