I normally only use the bed tank when traveling. I will occasionally put some fuel in it though to make sure any residual fuel gets run through. Since I have a solenoid valve I just leave the manual valve open all the time. while driving when the truck tank gets down between 1/2 and 1/4 tank I open the valve and start the pump to fill it back up, usually 15 to 20 minutes. I never leave the solenoid valve open or pump running when I fill up.

 

I have a transfer flow tank with electric pump. They gave me a tour of the factory where they make the tanks and the guy showed me the fuel sensor work station where they test the sensors. Pretty cool set-up as your dash indicator lowers to 90% and the external tank is at 95% it will pump into the OEM tank until they match up at 90% and it keeps going until you empty both of your tanks.

 

Well I picked it up today. It was everything I expected. I wasn't going to fool with it until tomorrow but about 5:30 I couldn't not install it. So about 2 hours later its all hooked up. I just put some temporary bolts through the holes to hold it in place. I went to Lowes after I had everything else done and got all stainless nuts, bolts, and washers to finish it up tomorrow. I filled the truck up and then put 5 gallons in the bed tank. I didn't open the valve yet. I took a few pics but I was working in the dark for the most part. I will update tomorrow when it is completely finished.

 

I finished up the install today. I filled up the factory tank after I got it all tied in. I had a small leak in the connection nearest the fuel cap. I moved the clamp and tightened them all again and it seems to have stopped. I put 15 gallons in the bed tank and opened the valve. The tank looks good to me and I am happy with it.



This is the first hole I drilled. The 7/8" bit worked perfect with the 1 1/8"od-5/8" id grommet from Lowes.


One thing I recommend is using some pvc to put under the tank. You can slide the tank around without scratching anything and you can pull it out and put in back pretty easy when marking holes. I had a paper bag taped up because mine didn't have any holes drilled in the tabs. The bag kept me from scratching the tank while I was drilling the tabs.


This is how my valve ended up. I cut off the two end sections of the barb on the valve so the fuel line didn't have a sharp turn down through the bed.


There was no way to get a nut and washer on the middle tab from under the truck so I had to feed the bolt up from the bottom and put the nuts on top. I don't like it but it was the only way to get it done.






I like how it blends into the bed. The finish is almost the same color as my bedliner. It is just a little lower than the bed. In the dark you can't tell it's in the truck until you get right up on it.

 

The install looks good. The black on black looks good. I just wish they would have the fully enclosed filler neck when I bought mine. I like the idea of out of site out of mind, plus it is locked inside the lid.


Not to get off topic but I noticed in your pics that you have grommets around the fithwheel attach points. Are those factory? Are they plastic or rubber?


The ones that came with my truck are plastic and won't stay in place. I have open holes through the bed that look bad.

 

The only reason I went with this tank is because of the enclosed fuel filler. I didn't want to spend that much but I feel better knowing it doesn't look like a fuel tank. I hope that anyone looking to steal fuel will pass it up. I guess the tool box thieves will still hit it but they will only get some old jumper cables and a few ratchet tie down straps. I guess I hope its just enough to deter them and they move on to an easier target. The cap on the filler tube isn't lockable. It has a gauge built in that is kind of a pain when fueling. If I had to put fuel in the tank more often I would probably trade it out for a locking cap. The 5th wheel prep is from the factory. The trim around the holes is hard plastic. I don't have the plug for the center hole but I wish I did. It is always filled with debris. I have the B&W hitch that stays installed all the time. I had it out to do the bedliner and the fuel tank. I dread it but I am putting it back in today. I'm getting too old to lift it.

 

As you can see by the pic your tank will do a much better job keeping would be thieves out than mine does. I have installed a locking cap since I took this pic but still would prefer to have the style tank you have.

I wish I could get my plastic grommets to fit in the bed holes like yours does. Maybe I'll do some more looking at them to see if there is a trick I haven't figured out.

 

Is there any way you could get some diamond plate and close it in so you can't see the filler but still open it somehow? They sell the plate at Lowe's and you can cut it with a cutting wheel. Just cut a piece the correct height and the length to cover the hole and bend it in a vice to make an ell shape. You could screw it or rivet it to the lid so when it closes it hides the cap? I'm just guessing from looking at the picture but I think you could come up with something.

 

That's a good idea. Maybe I can even figure out a locking latch mechanism.
Curt

 

Put the plastic rings in hot water for 10 mins or so.......Place the ring over the round steel pucks........Using a flat blade screwdriver push the inner edge of the plastic ring into the groves that go around the steel pucks. This is a PITA........Better to have two people doing this at the same time. Once that plastic ring seats into the grove around the steel puck, they will stay in place.
The dealers are supposed to do this......Most don't know how to. the rest are too lazy.

There are also 3rd party SS rings on the internet.

Hope this helps........

 

Great info! Thanks. I will give that a try.
The dealer just handed me the bag with the grommets. Guess I should have asked them to install them.
Curt

 

You are welcome Curt........
I had to install mine too. Took a bit of ......Oh Chits.....and ......Why didn't I think of that a long time ago........

 

New tank looks great, the black looks real good. I am sure you will love it. They have made a change since I got mine a year ago. The tool box back then had more height and the top of the lid is several inches higher than the bed rails. Like this newer model change.

 

I think you can still get the one with the larger tool box. Seems like they have about 3 different sizes for the 60 gallon on Northern Tool. One of the main reasons I picked this one is because it is only 19 3/4" tall.

 

Like I said I have two RDS tanks, one gravity one fuel pump.
On the second one I talked to RDS and got the fuel sender unit instead of sight glass. I then installed 12 V shutoff valve, wix fuel filter/water separator and Airtex fuel pump. Auto meter fuel gauge on dash is hooked to the RDS sender unit and all powered thru up fitter switches.
Fuel dumps thru RDS Gravity feed fitting into my rear tank(yes I have chassis cab).
The fuel gauge on aux tank is sure handy. This gives me 100 gal.
I much prefer the aux fuel tank sender/fuel pump than the gravity system on first tank, however it always worked fine, just wanted faster fuel transfer.
You will love your setup, I wish you safe and happy travels!!!