Dana 60 semi float to Sterling 10.5 help
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Green Moose Wilderness
Dana 60 semi float to Sterling 10.5 help
My 83 has a Dana 60 semi float rear axle was considering swapping it out for a sterling 10.5 out of a mid to late 90's Ford. is this a bolt in swap? if not what issues will I run into besides u joints?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
You will probably need to shorten your drive shaft, and you may need to get a 1330-1350 crossover joint, depending on the donor truck. I believe 351 powered trucks held out with the 1330's longer.
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From: Virginia
Spring perches are the same unless you happen to get a dually type from under a cab and chassis pickup.
Hopefully you will need driveshaft work. They had a problem with the early Sterlings, the splines on the inside of the pinion yoke would wear. Then that would let it twist back and forth ever so slightly and that loosens the pinion nut, aggravating the whole problem. Sometime later(I want to say 93) they made this splined area longer to cure the problem. But of course this made the snout on the rearend longer also, requiring a shorter driveshaft.
Hopefully you will need driveshaft work. They had a problem with the early Sterlings, the splines on the inside of the pinion yoke would wear. Then that would let it twist back and forth ever so slightly and that loosens the pinion nut, aggravating the whole problem. Sometime later(I want to say 93) they made this splined area longer to cure the problem. But of course this made the snout on the rearend longer also, requiring a shorter driveshaft.
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Lead Driver
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From: Roseville, MN
I wouldn't think shocks would be a problem either, but I'm a little less sure of that.
Not sure if brakes will give you any issue. Your '93 didn't have ABS and by the mid '90s Ford trucks had rear wheel ABS, so it MIGHT take a little work to get the proportioning worked out. Shouldn't be a showstopper, but might not just be plug-and-play.
From what I've read on the '87 - '96 forum it seems like people think the 10.25" is a pretty big improvement over the Dana 60, but I'm just repeating what I've read.
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From what I understand, the lug pattern for the 10.5 is metric and slightly different than the lug pattern for the 10.25
I swapped a 10.25 from a 1996 F350 into my 1986 F250 with zero issues. Everything lined up perfectly. Spring perches, drive shaft, Ujoints all worked perfectly.
I swapped a 10.25 from a 1996 F350 into my 1986 F250 with zero issues. Everything lined up perfectly. Spring perches, drive shaft, Ujoints all worked perfectly.
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From what I understand, the lug pattern for the 10.5 is metric and slightly different than the lug pattern for the 10.25
I swapped a 10.25 from a 1996 F350 into my 1986 F250 with zero issues. Everything lined up perfectly. Spring perches, drive shaft, Ujoints all worked perfectly.
I swapped a 10.25 from a 1996 F350 into my 1986 F250 with zero issues. Everything lined up perfectly. Spring perches, drive shaft, Ujoints all worked perfectly.
u-joints were the same,spring width is the same.Would highly recommend that swap.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
... So unless you buy newer wheels and figure a way to swap spindles in the front, you are going to have to keep front and rear separate.
Seems an awful lot of work for questionable gains.
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