What does everyone do for turn signals?


I have dual filament rear lamps and I will be using the parking lights as turn signals. I need a switch for the column for turn signals and hazards. What are good brands/places to get them? I see a lot of universal kits. I don't want a cheapie plastic pile of crap but I also don't want to break the bank.

 

If using the stock column, AFAIK clamp on accessory turn signal switch is the only choice, Need to separately mount a hazard switch of your choice.
The aftermarket columns all have built in switches. The OEM column I removed from my 56 has built in turn signal switch standard with custom cab option in 56. You are also going to lose your horn button functionality with the stock column. Mid Fifty has a horn button function restoration kit, but it is in their words "pricey". Best option is to use aftermarket column, not much difference in price for new paintable non tilt column by the time you buy the lower centering bushing, lower floor mount, horn button kit, and turn signal switch. You can add tilt for not much more, and have your choice of steering wheel size, style. With power steering you don't need the huge diameter wheel which can give more comfort/space in the cab, especially with tilt.

 

Thanks Ax. I currently have an Ididit non-tilt column. I have been looking at something like this:


Heavy Duty Turn Signal Switch


Its a combo turn signal and hazard switch.

 

i have an ididit tilt column, it came with built in turn signals and hazard switch. Is there not wires and connector coming out of column?

 

No, I got the most basic Ididit column. It was about $120

 

Ok, I see Ididit does make their "old school" column without turn signal switch, or horn button switch. Realize that Speedway turn signal switch and most other clamp ons are not self canceling.

 

NAPA sells the successor to the classic SignalStat 900-series. You can get them in chrome, with chrome handle. Not sure if they are still cast pot metal like in the old days, but they are rugged units made for big trucks. I have heard of problems with the chinese knock-offs.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

 

Well, by the time you add the signalstat switch and the horn button kit to the basic column it's about the same as their straight column with self cancelling switch and horn switch built in. I'd be tempted to put the basic column on CL or ebay and buy the complete column if it were me. Or if you really like the look of the clamp on switch I might roll the dice on Speedways switch for the price?

 

If you are referring to this one at Speedway,
Turn Signal Switch

that is the cheap chinese knock-off I was referring to. At least they are charging what it's worth. Does not integrate with the brake lights so separate turn signal fixtures F&R are needed. No 4-ways either.

 

At the time I wasn't exactly sure what column I needed and the Old school worked well for fitment. The next cheapest would be about $300 or so with no tilt and the integrated turn signal and horn. I figure I can use my $120 column, a $25-50 turn signal switch and a hidden horn button on the lower lip of the dash for a fair price and still be below the cost of something like this:


Ididit 1010350010, Ididit Universal Straight Floor Shift Steering Columns | Ididit


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Turn-Signal-Switch-Top-Quality-Hot-Rod-Custom-Jeep-4x4-Postal-rat-a/301528699021?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3D922e0f2538a6467cbae47b9b53e093dd%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D301528699021%26clkid%3D9018757535572349463&_qi=RTM2067267

I was looking at that one. I see the 900 series repops for $25-45. Its chrome plated metal and has 7 wires (for the extra circuits)

 

As I often say to Gary: "Your truck, your choice, that's what hotrodding is all about." If you ask for an opinion I'll give one with my reasoning, what you do is totally up to you. Simple as that, no ill feelings, not argumentative. That's where Gary and I get along so well. (plus it's a lot easier to do in person than on the printed page where unintended emotion can be interpreted)
For me the most important feature on my column choice was the tilt, because at the time there was to be two drivers spending long periods of time behind the wheel of our truck, and we found it an important feature on our race cars. I was also up fitting it with all the modern conveniences I could for the same reason, comfort and convenience while towing the race trailer long distances.
Ross is right on the switch, signal stat (and it's successor?) has always been the benchmark in switches.

 

I appreciate all of the input you guys have give. I would prefer to have tilt but I will be driving the truck 99.999% of the time and my wife is the same height as me so we have the same seating and control position. When I did the fab work, I figured out what my limits were and what felt comfortable, mocked everything up and had her sit in the seat. I had her feel the controls and pedals so we are good on that level.


I am currently looking at the Signal-Stat 900s. Those seem to go for about $80 or so, as opposed to the die cast knock-offs. I am price shopping currently.

 

I'm 6'2", 270# my (now ex) wife was 5'4" 115#. hence 6 way power seat, 15" wheel, tilt column w PS, PB, hanging pedals, power windows, door locks, cruise. Even tested best cup holder location. We found it important in the testing stage to sit in the belted in driving position (use a strap around seat back and chest under armpits to simulate shoulder belt) and simulate all control movements for extended period, 15 min or longer. Movements that may seem ok/doable at first can become wearing/tiresome/irritating after the body become acclimated. Leave room for further adjustment where possible, the body changes with time. This is especially important IMHO with controls such as lights, wipers, ignition, mirrors, switches, and that remote horn button, make sure it is easily found/used in a panic/emergency situation, you don't want to have to search for a cleverly hidden/located switch, you want a BIG easily opperated button right where your hand naturally falls, can find it, that's why it is traditionally in the middle of the steering wheel. It's one thing if it's awkward to change radio stations, but no ok if you have to unbuckle to turn on the wipers, and you do not want to still be searching for the horn button when that oncoming sleepy driver in your lane hits you.

 

I tried most of that minus the belted position. No plans for cupholders at the moment.


Im using the stock bench seat so I can move back if needed and a bit more forward. We are both 5'7" but her legs are a bit longer than mine. She could probably scoot the seat back 1-2 clicks but and move the mirrors down. I was more concerned with steering wheel angle and pedal height. She is used to driving a car so it was a bit awkward for her at first to move pedals seated higher in the truck as opposed to a low seat height and pressing pedals forward in a car. I am using 80s Mustang pedals (same similar design from 79-2004) I have a 2004 Mustang accelerator pedal and the steering controls listed in the first few posts. The trans shifter is at a good spot (easy to reach). I used the Hurst 57 Chevy bench seat style arm with a white ball grip. I am kicking around the idea of swapping out the stock Mustang pedal pads (cutting them off of the pedal arms) and welding a nut to the brake and clutch to mount the stock style F1 round pads. I think the thread pitch is 1/2"-18. Its an unusual fine pitch, definitely not -14, close to -20 but not exact. I measured it with my thread file.