Probably not the best move since we're camping Thursday for a few days but, I've had these parts in a box for awhile and took advantage of my days off to tackle the work. I found a few small issues so far. Interesting as the truck runs great so we'll see if I screw that up with all this work.

1. Glow plugs - Motorcraft brand
2. Dorman up pipes, hi temp painted/wrapped
3. EBPV delete-non ebpv pedestal and hi flow outlet - Rotomaster brand ( http://www.rotomaster.com/products/ )
4. CNC quad feed fuel line and HPOP lines - http://cncfabricationllc.com/
5. RR billet plenums and lower boot kit w T bolt clamps - http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/
6. 360 turbo rebuild and RR billet wheel - http://barderturboservice.com/
7. Fuel bowl rebuild and billet FPR housing - http://www.dieselsite.com/
8. AIH delete - Riff Raff

The glow plugs looked Ok, not great some wear but easy to remove. 165K and I"ll replace this set.

Checked injector torque at 50in/lbs none moved but 3 on P side took a 1/4 turn or so to 120 in/lbs. UVHC connector was backing out a little on P Side, did the .50 cent mod.

Compressor wheel has side to side play, no scraping on the housing at all. 1 bolt of the four holding the hot/cold sides together had fallen completely out.

EBPV was leaking oil as was the P side fuel line fitting I think the boots must have been weeping as the P side plenum was wet as was the fuel line that runs under it.

I'm a little unsure about the HPOP lines. I did my best to route them how it seemed to make sense. Removed the check valves, and did my best to torque the fittings to the HPOP but, I'm a bit chicken to strip the threads so installed them spark plug tight. I used 243 on the threads but with oil in the passages, not sure how that will work...

In no order:








Check out the heating element, different than what I've seen before.



In changing the fuel filters, the bowl *looked* clean but once disassembled, it clearly is not.

 

Did you install a Non-EBPV turbo pedestal, people say they clean up the engine and are less prone to leaks?






FYI, your link has expired

 

No guts no glory!

Does the kit include the bolt that fell out? My understanding is the new version of that bolt has scientifically effed up threads to prevent backing out.



That fuel heater is original style, and probably old. Apparently it works fine so maybe let sleeping dogs lie, but I'd consider a new one. Looks like THIS. Installing the FPR spring can be tricky. If your fuel pressure goes sky high, that's first place to look.



What brand? Autolites have a bad rep.


Passenger fuel line has tendency to rub thru at the clamp in your pic. Results in a Large fuel leak. Open clamp and give it some cushion, or replace clamp with type that already has rubber. Don't get all the way in here and leave it like that.

I think they pretty much go one way, given the stiffness and length. Google some pics for reference.

Same here 4 years ago, no leaks so far. Knock on wood. It was a different loctite tho, green in color, came with the new fittings. Threads really should be spotless, but well applied loctite (ie on the threads only) and reasonable torque seems to do the job. One look at the HPOP threads gives you a good idea that not much torque is required!

Anybody know the torque spec on HPOP fittings?

 

Got the rig running this afternoon, started reasonably soon and with just a puff of smoke which one would expect. I'm suspicious of the HPOP fitting to the head, it's a bit damp but could be run off with all the jacking around I did on that fitting---or it could be needing a new Oring. The good news is nothing blew up, the truck ran very well and an inspection after some full throttle driving showed the ebpv delete pedestal (Rotomaster brand as is the hi flow outlet) is dry as is all the fittings for the fuel system. It looks like just the HPOP fitting may be a little wet on the DR side and the valley and down the back of the engine from all the mess needs rinsing.

So, it idles quieter, runs very smooth and with the Torque app, I saw 21psi boost...big increase over the prior runs 16.5 or so. HPOP runs 2975 on this run, not sure if that's within spec or not.

The 360 kit does come with 4 new bolts. I just torqued to spec and left it at that. Thanks for the info on the fuel heater. As long as this works, we'll leave it for now. I may pick up the new one for the next fuel filter change though.

I changed all the lines with the CNC fabrication 4 line fuel feed kit so should be good.

I'll keep an eye on things for awhile to see if there is any leaking. the valley needs a good rinse so when it's cold I'll do that carefully with some simple green.


Some pics. I missed taking a lot as I was busy working.

Mock up of the CNC 4 line fuel kit:


A couple shots comparing the RR billet wheel to the stock one I removed:

 

Where did you get the fuel lines from? Those are nice. I would like to install those when I do the Turbo upgrade.

 

Got them from CNC Fabrication:

CNC FABRICATION 4 LINE FEED 7.3L SD FUEL BOWL RETAIN KIT - 99-03-FUEL PUMPS/ACCESSORIES - 99-03-FUEL DELIVERY - POWERSTROKE 99-03 - Products

The truck starts and idles/drives much quieter with the kit. I had replaced the fuel poppet a few weeks ago so I was able to distinguish what each did. The vibralock fitting on the P side rear of the head was seeping diesel too. This kit uses conventional metal fittings that are much stronger.


Installing the Dorman up pipes was something I was concerned about. Particularly the alignment of the Turbo to the "baby butt". In this case, the two aligned perfectly and was seated properly right away. I installed the P side pipe to the collector first (tight) and dropped in from above. I installed the D side pipe and left the collector bolts loose. Then installed the manifold bolts on both sides and kept them loose. I then installed the turbo on the pedestal and torqued it down to spec. From there I pulled the up pipe collector in and installed the marmot clamp and it aligned perfectly. I looked at the connection from as many angles I could find to confirm parallel lines on the connection. All in all, I think the Dorman pipes are great. I think wrapping them will benefit sound reduction and possibly performance.

 

Really nice job! You . I really like the CNC quad fuel delivery... Must resist....

 

Awesome man I really like those cnc fuel lines I want to see now about getting some for my build

 

You've done some mighty fine work there. I couldn't get the intake plenum surface to look that shiny. I noticed the fuel mod still has the port available for a fuel pressure sensor, that's nice. It's a good feeling to have the truck run smooth, eh?

 

Where does the fuel pressure sensor go? I need to order gauges, just have not decided to go Edge/scangauge or mechanical. I want Pyro, Trans temp, and Boost. Don't really care about fuel pressure, but for some reason it is seems to be a popular gauge

 

What I have learned:

Get an OBDII gauge - really. It covers the Transmission Fluid Temperature, Engine Oil Temperature, boost, Exhaust Back Pressure, Injector Control Pressure, and many other PIDs that can help to troubleshoot the truck, as well as just monitor it. An OBDII gauge might be as simple as an app on your phone with an OBDII adapter. You want the ability to log the data in a file, then you can review on a PC at your leisure, or share the data log with those who can analyze the performance.

Other than the OBDII gauge, I have dual pyros and a fuel pressure gauge. The fuel pressure gauge would have been near pointless when the truck was new, but after 15 years - it's crucial. Many a mystery was instantly answered by a WOT run with a Fuel Pressure gauge.

 

Thanks, it was a bit of a PITA but I think I did some good. On the plenum, I used a 2" surface prep tool with a scotch-bright type disc that won't remove iron. This makes life so much easier and quicker. Took me maybe 2 minutes to clean the surface then wipe with brake kleen and a rag.

The CNC kit does include a pressure port which is great. I can check Idle pressure but I don't have any gauges. I did replace the fuel pump recently and with this line kit, fuel bowl rebuild, new poppet, gold spring, billet FPR housing, I'm ASSuming it's all good.

I've gone back and forth on the gauges bit at least 5 times now and almost pulled the trigger at least 3. With stock tunes and the torque app with a spare 7" tablet stuck on the windshield, I can't make myself fork over the $600 (4 gauge). If I do it, I'm going with the 4 gauge to get fuel. The big hesitancy is that I'm not sure I want to tune the truck. If I continue making it run better in stock form, while not an abundance of power, it is adequate, and being 16yr old truck, has other needs to be addressed.... So it goes.

A few pics after install and some drive time:

Painted/wrapped dorman up pipes. Notice I did drill/tap the manifold for EGT should I decide to get gauges. Easy job and clean up with Up pipes off:


Quad line kit, look carefully next to the solenoid for the access port:


HPOP lines, Billet plenums, boots, etc.:


Overall:

 

That sure looks nice in there. Clean.

Gauges.... I went into it by buying all the recommended gauges in 2011. Much has changed since then. OBDII apps have gotten better, OBDII adapters have improved, tablets have been introduced, and every hip has a smart phone. Because of these changes, the recommended gauge list has altered.

1. EGT
2. Fuel Pressure
Optional: 2nd EGT (passenger side)

What is your list?

 

Does the 4 port fuel bowl kit from CNC eliminate the need for the FRx from RiffRaff?

 

I wondered that too, but best I can figure they deal with different issues. 4 way feed to the head will help with starvation of #8 and cackle that comes from it, but does not address the dead head design. Any air in the fuel after the bowl still has only one exit, thru the injectors. The FRx allows a return path for air to escape from the head. A full regulated return system will combine both functions.