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Need engine compartment to cabin access

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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 07:06 AM
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Need engine compartment to cabin access

Going to run the wiring harness for my front light bar. The wires are of a heavy gauge that is not only 40amp fused but also has an inline relay. This gives me a uncomfortable feeling of using one of the Upfitter switches.

I need to access the interior of the truck from the engine compartment prefer doing so on the drivers side. The only rubber grommet that I can find is the large heavy duty one that Ford runs the large bundle of factory wires through. Not only is this location in a difficult location to access but I also am not too sure about trying to cut thru this grommet.

Does anyone know of a location that I have not found or located. I feel sure that there were more choices on my older Superduty trucks.

Thanks for any help for suggestions,
 
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jonrjen
Going to run the wiring harness for my front light bar. The wires are of a heavy gauge that is not only 40amp fused but also has an inline relay. This gives me a uncomfortable feeling of using one of the Upfitter switches.

I need to access the interior of the truck from the engine compartment prefer doing so on the drivers side. The only rubber grommet that I can find is the large heavy duty one that Ford runs the large bundle of factory wires through. Not only is this location in a difficult location to access but I also am not too sure about trying to cut thru this grommet.

Does anyone know of a location that I have not found or located. I feel sure that there were more choices on my older Superduty trucks.

Thanks for any help for suggestions,
Hey jonrjen, check this thread out. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-your-led.html

I went through the same process for a bunch of front end light. You're going to end up powering everything under the hood (the heavy gauge red and black wires...directly to the battery terminals) find a good spot to mount your relay near the master cylinder on the outside wall of the engine compartment, then hook up what would be the power or "on" wire meant for the MFG provided switch (coming out of the relay) to 1 of 4 deadheaded pass-thru wires preinstalled in the drivers side footwell (see owners manual for exact colors...or use a multimeter, prefer both)...part of the big bundle by the e-brake. After that, connect the cab side of the deadheaded wire to the up fitter of choice. I run 2 single row 30" led bars off of switch 1, and 1 double row 20" bar off of switch 2. if this is confusing, feel free to PM me, I'd be happy to elaborate further. Good luck! Nels
 
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 12:54 PM
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On the wire harness the heavy RED and BLACK wires attach to the battery terminals. Then run up to the RELAY. From the RELAY out is two set of wires, 1 going to the LIGHT BAR (1 red and 1 black). The other is a set of 3 wires (1 each, blue, red, black) that attach to the supplied wire harness on/off illuminated switch. If all three wires are not attached at the switch, the light bar will not light.

So if I were to want to power the light bar with the use of an UPfitter switch, how would I go about wiring it up? Since the Upfitter switch is grounded would I need to attach the red and blue wire to the Upfitter wire? I am pretty sure that the blue wire is the power to illuminate the switch when turned on, but with out the blue wire attached to the switch I get no power to the light bar. I assume this is due to the way it has been wired into the harness relay?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 03:15 PM
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Here is how I would hook it up using an upfitter switch.

Bosch 30amp relay diagram



The switch in the cab is upfitter switch you select and the associated feed thru wire in the molded firewall plug. Connect the upfitter switch wire to the feed thru wire.

Under the hood, attach the feed thru wire to pin 86 of the relay. Run a fuse 12vdc wire from the battery to pin 30 of the relay. Run a wire from pin 87 of the relay to the red wire on the lights. Ground the black wire of the light under one of the screws used when you mount the lights. Attach a ground wire to pin 85 of the relay and mount it under the relay mounting screw.

When you flip the upfitter switch selected, it will energize the relay and send 12vdc to the lights.

Hope this helps
 
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 03:25 PM
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I used two relays and an upfitter.

the two relays, cause I wanted the light on when the brights were on only

relay 2
30 - power in
87 - power out to light bar
85 - ground
86 - wire from high beam T connector

relay 1

30 - fused power in from battery
87 - power out to relay 2 - power in
85 - ground
86 - upfitter switch


so, relay 1 controls power from the battery to relay 2
upfitter turns on/off the relay

relay 2 controls power to the light bar
bright light power from left headlight turns on/off the relay

I did not use any provided harness. the longest wire is the power out of relay 2 to the light bar
 
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jonrjen
On the wire harness the heavy RED and BLACK wires attach to the battery terminals. Then run up to the RELAY. From the RELAY out is two set of wires, 1 going to the LIGHT BAR (1 red and 1 black). The other is a set of 3 wires (1 each, blue, red, black) that attach to the supplied wire harness on/off illuminated switch. If all three wires are not attached at the switch, the light bar will not light.

So if I were to want to power the light bar with the use of an UPfitter switch, how would I go about wiring it up? Since the Upfitter switch is grounded would I need to attach the red and blue wire to the Upfitter wire? I am pretty sure that the blue wire is the power to illuminate the switch when turned on, but with out the blue wire attached to the switch I get no power to the light bar. I assume this is due to the way it has been wired into the harness relay?

The blue wire will be the signal for the relay. When you close the switch, power from the hot red wire to black ground will energize the relay through the blue wire. This is how some of us use our high beam as a signal to the relay.

If you are using the harness provided with the light and connected at the battery like you described, your upfitter lead connects to that blue wire (as mentioned above). That will be the only wiring you have to worry about to get it to function (other than the upfitter blunt end inside the cab to a pass thru wire). The small gauge red/black wires coming from the relay that would have been connected to the switch can be safely wrapped and tucked as to prevent them from contacting each other or chassis/grounding.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 06:15 PM
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Thanks all, I do greatly appreciate your help,
Jon
 
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 06:53 PM
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I just used my pocket knife and poked a hole/slit in the rubber gasket around the steering column at the fire wall. Then I used a coat hanger for a wire fish and brought my hot wire in the cab.

My 20" light bar is powered from the battery and I used a illuminated switch that I mounted to the kick panel under the steering wheel. The switch I used is rated for 30A and my light draws 12A I think. I didn't use a relay, just wired the thing up and it works great. I wish I had more up fitters.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 07:43 AM
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I just wired my light bar to a passthrough wire which I then wired directly to an upfitter. It was a really simple install and works well. Obviously with a wiring harness and everything you have I see how it would be more complicated.

Also, if you pull up the carpet under the driver's floor mat you'll see a big rubber grommet that you can route through, perfect if you're going to an upfitter.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jonrjen
Thanks all, I do greatly appreciate your help,
Jon
what did you end up doing?
Use one of the passthru wires, or punch thru with your own?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 01:49 PM
  #11  
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After reading all the feedback numerous times, giving it time to sink in and my Brain Fart to dissipate it did register. Where I was concerned as to the Upfitter switches not having the needed power to supply the light bar, I finally understood that all the upfitter switch needed was the power needed to trigger the relay.

As of this morning the install is completed with the use of the number 1 upfitter switch, a pass thru supplied wire, a bunch of zip ties and a few band aids thanks to Ford and their 3" long wire leads at the firewall.

Thanks to everyone for dealing though what I had so much trouble understanding. It always feel good to release a little cranial gas.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 05:38 PM
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Congrats!

If you ever need to fish anything else into the cabin (air bag lines) there is a large plug under the driver floormat/carpet. If crew cab, there is another small one behind the drivers seat. Both are easily seen from below.

How did you ever access the short up fitter lines in the engine compartment???

Originally Posted by jonrjen
After reading all the feedback numerous times, giving it time to sink in and my Brain Fart to dissipate it did register. Where I was concerned as to the Upfitter switches not having the needed power to supply the light bar, I finally understood that all the upfitter switch needed was the power needed to trigger the relay.

As of this morning the install is completed with the use of the number 1 upfitter switch, a pass thru supplied wire, a bunch of zip ties and a few band aids thanks to Ford and their 3" long wire leads at the firewall.

Thanks to everyone for dealing though what I had so much trouble understanding. It always feel good to release a little cranial gas.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnD333
Congrats!

If you ever need to fish anything else into the cabin (air bag lines) there is a large plug under the driver floormat/carpet. If crew cab, there is another small one behind the drivers seat. Both are easily seen from below.

How did you ever access the short up fitter lines in the engine compartment???
I removed the fuse box cover and was able to pull a little extra slack from the pass thru wires. I then installed 8" extension wires to each one using insulated butt splices. I did the same thing on the pass thrus under the dash. I used a couple band aids on me but the truck came thru with flying colors. Use the same color wire on each pass thru inside and out and record your color codes for future reference. Any additions in the future will now be a breeze and the back of my hands are almost healed. Use quality butt splices such as Thomas&Betts. h
 
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