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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 12:20 PM
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Been sitting too long

My truck has been down for a little over a year without a tranny. Finally got my HD4r100 and installed it. After buttoning everything back up, my truck won't start. I have two new batteries, and my volts are fine, but I can't build and ICP. I can barely reach 30! I filled the reservoir with fresh t6, but that didn't help at all. Where do I go from here?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 01:02 PM
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Update: Iv filled the reservoir two more times now. The ICP just to about 430 each time, but dwindles down steadily as does the level of oil in the reservoir. Before I tried starting it, I put stabilizer in the fuel tank, took my fuel filter out, cycled a lot of fuel through the bowl till I fel confident it was getting good stuff, and them put a new filter in.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 01:35 PM
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did you change the oil?
did you try to unplug the icp to see it will start?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 02:07 PM
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If the oil in the HPOP res is dropping I would think that you have LPOP issue not filling it as your ICP is getting to where it should be. X2 on the oil change?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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I have unplugged the ICP. The oil was 500 miles fresh when I parked it. How to I start troubleshooting the LPOP?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 06:00 PM
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How long have you been trying this? If you keep getting a little more pressure each time, keep trying. Just remember to keep the batteries on a charger and let the starter cool down between attempts.

If you've hit a wall at 430 ICP, try applying 12 volts to the IPR so it will max out and see if that will get it started. Maybe you've got a stuck IPR.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 09:29 PM
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Thinking out loud here....

I wonder if the LPOP has lost its prime.

Pop
 
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 10:42 PM
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the lpop will prime even if dry. when you build an engine there is no way to prefill it that i know of. it will just take 5-8 times to prime it.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 12:39 AM
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It eventually started. I ended up putting in a CPS out of a different truck. Swapping relays 302 and 303. And replacing fuse 116. Even then it still cranked for quite a while and then finally fired off. It requires a really long crank each time, but each time gets a little shorter. I will replace the oil and fix a couple transmission line leaks and address some other issues when I come back from college next, and hopefully that will restore it to it's pre-hibernation state of performance. BTW, never try and route 6.0 tranny cooler lines on a 7.3.... it just doesn't work unless you are a really good pipe bender and can make some magical splices and adapters/reducers.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by caedo
BTW, never try and route 6.0 tranny cooler lines on a 7.3.... it just doesn't work unless you are a really good pipe bender and can make some magical splices and adapters/reducers.

Thanks for the tip. Can you be more specific? Do you mean you bought the 1/2" hard cooler lines from a 6.0L 5R110W that connect all the way back to the transmission... and then tried to retrofit them into a 7.3L 4r100?

Or do you mean the 6.0L trans cooler fitting adapters and short lines that connect from a retrofitted 6.0L trans cooler to the existing 7.3L lines?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
Thanks for the tip. Can you be more specific? Do you mean you bought the 1/2" hard cooler lines from a 6.0L 5R110W that connect all the way back to the transmission... and then tried to retrofit them into a 7.3L 4r100?

Or do you mean the 6.0L trans cooler fitting adapters and short lines that connect from a retrofitted 6.0L trans cooler to the existing 7.3L lines?
The first option, the long hard lines that run all the way back to the transmission. There is no good way to adapt from the 1/2 lines to 3/8 ports the 4 times you have to without leaking.
 
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