Ford Ranger, pouring water on ground.
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Ford Ranger, pouring water on ground.
Hey, sorry if this is the wrong area, closest I could find to a Ford Ranger. So here is the issue. We have had this truck, '94 Ford Ranger, sitting in our yard for a year or so because it needed some engine parts replaced. We replaced the radiator, tubes, and two freeze plugs, after taking off the exahaust manifold, and replacing it as well as the parts needed for it.
We drove it home from the shop where we worked on it, and it ran for a mile or so, no problems, then water started pouring out on the ground, which is what we put in it till we got home. The freeze plugs held, no water drips down the engine from tubes or anything, the only place we saw the water when we looked was under the engine, in between the basically the area between the front and the bed. There is a big pipe, no idea the name, that connects to a part under the engine, and a small gap in between where the water seems to be pouring out. It is a 4 cylinder, 2.3 Liter, 2 wheel drive truck.
Any troubleshooting help would be awesome! Thank you for taking the time to read it.
We drove it home from the shop where we worked on it, and it ran for a mile or so, no problems, then water started pouring out on the ground, which is what we put in it till we got home. The freeze plugs held, no water drips down the engine from tubes or anything, the only place we saw the water when we looked was under the engine, in between the basically the area between the front and the bed. There is a big pipe, no idea the name, that connects to a part under the engine, and a small gap in between where the water seems to be pouring out. It is a 4 cylinder, 2.3 Liter, 2 wheel drive truck.
Any troubleshooting help would be awesome! Thank you for taking the time to read it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,726
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From: down south
You are in the right area of the forum and welcome! I am not familiar with 94s, but its hard to diagnose from afar with just descriptions sometimes. Can you get some pics of where you think the coolant is leaking from?
We can probably help you get this figured out, so dont give up on her yet!
Welcome aboard!!!!
We can probably help you get this figured out, so dont give up on her yet!
Welcome aboard!!!!
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Hey guys! Thanks for responding. The liquid was water, but that is because we filled the coolant area with hose water. So I found out today, my Father was the one who drove it home, and the water only started pouring out when he shut off the heater. Any ideas?
Postmaster
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Ok, first things first, you do not ever EVER, EVER, EVER put tap water into the cooling system. Follow the leak and see where it is coming from, but be advised, if this is a slow drip, and its just water, it can be condensation from the air conditioner, and that is normal.
Follow the hoses, squeeze then the see if there are cracks or weaknesses, it shouldn't be difficult to see where it coming from.
Follow the hoses, squeeze then the see if there are cracks or weaknesses, it shouldn't be difficult to see where it coming from.
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Alright, we found the problem. There are two freeze plugs on the back of the engine, where the transmission meets the engine block. Were assuming one of them has busted, and for a mechanic to replace a plug, its like a grand. So were giving up, after all the work we have put into it. Even if we were to replace them, all the rest of the freeze plugs are steel, and will eventually go bad, so, no more. Thanks though!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
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From: suburban atlanta
Don't give up. Removing and replacing the transmission is not that hard. I did it one time on a torque-tube Chevy in front of the house, using a scissors jack and some blocks of wood. If you can move it to a good place, and get some drive-on jack stands, it is a piece of cake. You just need a transmission jack, or somebody strong to let the transmission down onto their body and then to the floor. Drag it out, and you can reach the rear freeze plugs readily. You can replace steel freeze plugs with rubber that inserts easily, and expands to seal when you tighten the outside nut/bolt.
You just have to remove the driveshaft, undo the shift linkage, and remove the bell housing bolts. Wobbly ended extensions allow decent access to the bell housing bolts with the rear crossmember removed, and the engine & transmission hanging on the engine mounts. Most times you can remove the shift linkage from underneath, and leave the lever & sound deadener material hanging in place. Be sure to put the transmission into neutral so it is easy to replace the linkage.
tom
You just have to remove the driveshaft, undo the shift linkage, and remove the bell housing bolts. Wobbly ended extensions allow decent access to the bell housing bolts with the rear crossmember removed, and the engine & transmission hanging on the engine mounts. Most times you can remove the shift linkage from underneath, and leave the lever & sound deadener material hanging in place. Be sure to put the transmission into neutral so it is easy to replace the linkage.
tom
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2009
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Time for you to learn to turn some wrenches. Fixing those plugs is not a big deal, plus they will never fail if you change your coolant regularly. The corrosion only happens when the coolant gets too old.
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You sure it is not that hard of work? Plus what about the right side of the engine? There are a loooottt of tubes and wires covering those freeze plugs, and I will need to replace those eventually anyways. Not sure if all the money I will eventually need to put into it will be worth having a working old truck. What are your thoughts?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: McKenzie River
94 is not a old truck..........hell, my newest vehicle is a 96!
No, it's not that much work, you learn something and have probably as good or better a repair than a shop will do and for MUCH less money.
Just work slowly and carefully, you may find hoses and lines that NEED replacing in the process, it's just a machine, you CAN fix it.
No, it's not that much work, you learn something and have probably as good or better a repair than a shop will do and for MUCH less money.
Just work slowly and carefully, you may find hoses and lines that NEED replacing in the process, it's just a machine, you CAN fix it.
Postmaster
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Why will those freeze plugs fail anyway? I just rebuilt a '97 Ford 4.0L, 7 freeze plugs, none of them had any rust or corrosion on them at all.
The 2.3L Lima is good for 300,000 miles at least. Stop neglecting the cooling system and you'll stop having freeze plug failures. Drain all the old coolant out, refill with either premixed antifreeze, or a blend of 50% antifreeze concentrate and 50% purified water (RO or distilled water only). Don't ever put tap water in, thats what is making your freeze plugs fail, and it will destroy the engine from the inside out. Thats what wiped out your radiator too.
The 2.3L Lima is good for 300,000 miles at least. Stop neglecting the cooling system and you'll stop having freeze plug failures. Drain all the old coolant out, refill with either premixed antifreeze, or a blend of 50% antifreeze concentrate and 50% purified water (RO or distilled water only). Don't ever put tap water in, thats what is making your freeze plugs fail, and it will destroy the engine from the inside out. Thats what wiped out your radiator too.
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joshc_guitar
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May 26, 2008 11:55 AM