starts up,shuts off starts up shuts off any ideas?
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From: Jackson,Mi 49202
starts up,shuts off starts up shuts off any ideas?
I have had this Uni for around 6 months and have been working on the body,brakes,ect. It is from Oregon so pretty rustfree.
Today,I am having a new problem which I am thinking is electrical. The truck's harness is pretty much stock but the engine is a 1968 Lincoln 462 V8 with points. Now when I go to start it,it will start and as soon as I release key back to the run position,it shuts off. With just the key on,I have no power at the coil. I only have power when the engine is being cranked. Does anyone know where I could find a stock wiring diagram and maybe have some sort of idea as to why I am losing ignition power with the key in the run position? Is there a common problem inherent with these trucks that would cause this problem?
Also,how does the ignition switch come out of the dashboard. I assumed that the front bezel would screw off of the switch allowing the switch to slide out the back but that does not seem to be the case.
Thank you Jim
BTW,I have another 62 Uni that has a bad body and trans. I am using various trim parts from it but will be parting the rest of the truck out including a good running 292 V8 in case someone is in need of parts. Just putting that out there in case someone may be in need of something
Today,I am having a new problem which I am thinking is electrical. The truck's harness is pretty much stock but the engine is a 1968 Lincoln 462 V8 with points. Now when I go to start it,it will start and as soon as I release key back to the run position,it shuts off. With just the key on,I have no power at the coil. I only have power when the engine is being cranked. Does anyone know where I could find a stock wiring diagram and maybe have some sort of idea as to why I am losing ignition power with the key in the run position? Is there a common problem inherent with these trucks that would cause this problem?
Also,how does the ignition switch come out of the dashboard. I assumed that the front bezel would screw off of the switch allowing the switch to slide out the back but that does not seem to be the case.
Thank you Jim
BTW,I have another 62 Uni that has a bad body and trans. I am using various trim parts from it but will be parting the rest of the truck out including a good running 292 V8 in case someone is in need of parts. Just putting that out there in case someone may be in need of something
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Hemet ca.
The ignition will seperate by inserting a paper clip in hole by where key is.
Have key in ignition turn key to acc, depress pin using paper clip and the ignition will slide out. After that just disassemble bezel by holding the face of ignition with one hand and from the backside push in then rotate. All should come out easy enough.
Have key in ignition turn key to acc, depress pin using paper clip and the ignition will slide out. After that just disassemble bezel by holding the face of ignition with one hand and from the backside push in then rotate. All should come out easy enough.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Remove a battery cable for safety before messing with the ignition switch!
Ignition switch has a coil spring on the outside of it and has two pins, bezel has two notches.
Once the ignition cylinder has been removed, reach behind the dash-push the switch forward with one hand, with the other hand, push the bezel towards the dash, then GENTLY twist it off by a 1/4 turn.
There's a round spacer between the switch and the dash. Once the bezel is removed, the spacer usually falls on the floor.
Since many peeps are unaware how to remove the bezel, it's not unusual to find the notches bent outwards causing them to crack or one has torn out.
Bezel (C3TZ-11584-A) reproduced, available from all the repro parts sellers. Same: 1961/66 F100/1100 / 1961/67 Econoline / 1966/77 Bronco.
C3AZ-11572-A (Motorcraft SW-353) .. Ignition Switch ~ Same: 1961/66 F100/1100 / 1960/64 Ford/Falcon/Comet/Fairlane / 1965 Falcon/Comet/Fairlane / 1965/66 Mustang / 1966 Bronco.
Note: The 1967 switch (C7UZ-11572-A) has an extra terminal. Ford replaced the C3AZ switch with this one. The wiring scheme is different and AFAIK, only FTE member Confederate Diesel has the wiring diagram.
The correct original switch can be bought from autoparts stores.
Ignition switch has a coil spring on the outside of it and has two pins, bezel has two notches.
Once the ignition cylinder has been removed, reach behind the dash-push the switch forward with one hand, with the other hand, push the bezel towards the dash, then GENTLY twist it off by a 1/4 turn.
There's a round spacer between the switch and the dash. Once the bezel is removed, the spacer usually falls on the floor.
Since many peeps are unaware how to remove the bezel, it's not unusual to find the notches bent outwards causing them to crack or one has torn out.
Bezel (C3TZ-11584-A) reproduced, available from all the repro parts sellers. Same: 1961/66 F100/1100 / 1961/67 Econoline / 1966/77 Bronco.
C3AZ-11572-A (Motorcraft SW-353) .. Ignition Switch ~ Same: 1961/66 F100/1100 / 1960/64 Ford/Falcon/Comet/Fairlane / 1965 Falcon/Comet/Fairlane / 1965/66 Mustang / 1966 Bronco.
Note: The 1967 switch (C7UZ-11572-A) has an extra terminal. Ford replaced the C3AZ switch with this one. The wiring scheme is different and AFAIK, only FTE member Confederate Diesel has the wiring diagram.
The correct original switch can be bought from autoparts stores.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
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From: Glendale Arizona
You need to hook up the built in resistor wire. it is the pink with cloth cover for the ignition. This needs to be on the run side of the switch that is the Red with green stripe and has a three hole yellow female plug. Plug the male End of the pink wire in to this
Garbz
Garbz
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Junior User
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From: Jackson,Mi 49202
Thank you. I have been trying to get the cylinder out to no avail as well as the main body of the switch-same thing. Worked on it for a couple of hours before going home yesterday. To say I am frustrated is an understatement. Today is another day. 
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
See post 2 for instructions how to remove ignition cylinder / See post 3 for instructions how to remove bezel and switch.
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From: Jackson,Mi 49202
Finally got it. Once you push in the pin,you must turn the back counterclockwise approx 1/4 turn and then pull lock cylinder out. Then you are able to push in the main body towards the bezel and then remove main body of switch. I tried a different switch that I have to no avail. After looking at main harness under the dash,well, let's just say that it is a complete hack job with as many as 4 splices in a circuit. I understand that it has a different engine with the 462 in it but no way the harness needs to be hacked up this bad.
I have a parts truck with an OK harness in it or I could get a Rebel Universal 9 plus 3 circuit harness that is made in the USA for $170 shipped. Not sure which way I should go. Any other suggestions on a reasonably priced harness?
I have a parts truck with an OK harness in it or I could get a Rebel Universal 9 plus 3 circuit harness that is made in the USA for $170 shipped. Not sure which way I should go. Any other suggestions on a reasonably priced harness?
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From: Jackson,Mi 49202
OK,so I found a wire (resistor wire) that was hooked to the post coming off of the switch rather than going into the right connector. I hooked that up and now the truck starts and continues to run.
My problem is now when I go to put the switch back into the dash,it fits too loose and is not tight at all as if something is missing. The spring actually will slip through the hole. It looks like a 1/4 in to 1/2 in difference. Someone said something about a spacer. Does anyone have a pic of what this spacer looks like because I have looked everywhere and can not find anything else that may have fallen off.
My problem is now when I go to put the switch back into the dash,it fits too loose and is not tight at all as if something is missing. The spring actually will slip through the hole. It looks like a 1/4 in to 1/2 in difference. Someone said something about a spacer. Does anyone have a pic of what this spacer looks like because I have looked everywhere and can not find anything else that may have fallen off.
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Posting Guru
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reach up behind the dash and see if its not setting on the ledge.
I bought a truck one yr and didn't get around to working the wiring for a few months, but when I stuck my hand up behind the dash - found a big bag of pot... Now I'm assuming the guy that sold me the truck forgot it was there and just didn't have the KAHONIES to ask me for it. Big fat bag too... Too bad I don't smoke it, could of had a heck of a party. Gave it to my neighbor down the street, said it helps a little with his cancer... A good friend of mine found a gun stuck up under the dash in a car he bought at the auction. Too bad it turned out to be a hot gun.
I bought a truck one yr and didn't get around to working the wiring for a few months, but when I stuck my hand up behind the dash - found a big bag of pot... Now I'm assuming the guy that sold me the truck forgot it was there and just didn't have the KAHONIES to ask me for it. Big fat bag too... Too bad I don't smoke it, could of had a heck of a party. Gave it to my neighbor down the street, said it helps a little with his cancer... A good friend of mine found a gun stuck up under the dash in a car he bought at the auction. Too bad it turned out to be a hot gun.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
1961/66 F100/1100 / 1961/72 C Series Tilt Cabs / 1963/69 N/NT/T500/1000 / 1967/69 F800/1000 / 1966/77 Bronco.
How many would'ja like?
JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has 2 = 615-443-3086.
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 4,086 (!) = 800-476-9653.
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From: Jackson,Mi 49202
I ordered a switch and bezel from Dennis Carpenter on Friday and did not see the spacer. They have probably already shipped my parts out. I will try and call them 1st thing Monday Morning and maybe they could include it with my order. I have looked every where. Thank you for the info guys.
I will try and call them 1st thing Monday Morning and maybe they could include it with my order. I have looked every where. Thank you for the info guys.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
When you call back, ask for this catalog, it's free.
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From: Jackson,Mi 49202
Just wanted to update this post. The resistor wire was in horrible shape. I ended up replacing it and going with an external resistor on the firewall. Now I am going with a Pertronix ignition setup and will be removing the external resistor as well. Never did like them.
Back in the day, if you owned a Dodge you always had to have a spare resistor in the glove box.
Back in the day, if you owned a Dodge you always had to have a spare resistor in the glove box.
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