Clutch bleeding
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Clutch bleeding
I am at a loss. I have tried bleeding my clutch and installing a new slave cylinder. But, I cannot get the peddle back. Every time I push it down it stays down. So far, I have installed new slave cylinder, installed a new bushing on the pedal.
Anybody have advice on proper bleeding technique?
It has the external slave cylinder.
Anybody have advice on proper bleeding technique?
It has the external slave cylinder.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,251
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From: North Carolina
Does the slave cylinder have a small bleed screw on it?
It seems like a lot of people have trouble bleeding the clutch cylinders. I think I recall one person suggesting loosening the slave cylinder bleed screw, cap off on the master cylinder, full of brake fluid, and then wait for hours and hours, refilling the master if/when the fluid level drops. Eventually over time the air should be purged out of the slave and lines.
It seems like a lot of people have trouble bleeding the clutch cylinders. I think I recall one person suggesting loosening the slave cylinder bleed screw, cap off on the master cylinder, full of brake fluid, and then wait for hours and hours, refilling the master if/when the fluid level drops. Eventually over time the air should be purged out of the slave and lines.
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It has a bleeder screw on it. I have tried pumping fluid from the bottom at the slave, vacuuming at the slave, pumping from the top with the line disconnected, gravity bleeding at the slave w/my girl pumping the clutch. The only thing I have yet to try is opening the bleeder and waiting. So I will give it a go. Thanks man.
Right now my truck is parked on my driveway, inclined, with front of truck higher than the back. Will that affect anything?
Right now my truck is parked on my driveway, inclined, with front of truck higher than the back. Will that affect anything?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 8
From: North Carolina
Hmmm, sounds like you've tried about everything. I would say examine the fittings where the line attaches to the cylinders to make sure it isn't leaking. That would indicate an air-entry point into the syste,.
I don't know about bleeding at an angle - if not to much of an angle it probably doesn't matter, the slave is still below the master after all!
One additional piece of advice I recall - once you get the clutch at least mostly working, driving the truck and using the clutch, even if the pedal is still a bit "spongy", should quickly work any air bubbles loose and they will rise to the top of the the master. What I mean to say is that the clutch improves with use, it might not have to feel "perfect" from the beginning but it should fix itself in short order.
Good luck!
I don't know about bleeding at an angle - if not to much of an angle it probably doesn't matter, the slave is still below the master after all!
One additional piece of advice I recall - once you get the clutch at least mostly working, driving the truck and using the clutch, even if the pedal is still a bit "spongy", should quickly work any air bubbles loose and they will rise to the top of the the master. What I mean to say is that the clutch improves with use, it might not have to feel "perfect" from the beginning but it should fix itself in short order.
Good luck!
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I took off the master, disassembled it, and cleaned it out. It was full gunk. Bleeding was easy after that. Shifts like butter now. I wish I knew how easy it is supposed to be to bleed the system. Oh well. Live and learn.
If somebody come across this thread in a search. Clutch bleeding should be very EASY. If it is not going well, remove and disassemble the hydraulic clutch system. Clean and reassemble it. Then bench bleed.
To remove the hydraulic line- use a 3/32 sized allen head, find a nail that matches the diameter, cut off the sharp point, use to bang out the pin holding the line in.
To remove master clutch cylinder- disconnect line, there are (2) 1/2" nuts behind gas pedal.
To remove slave cylinder- disconnect line, remove retaining ring.
If somebody come across this thread in a search. Clutch bleeding should be very EASY. If it is not going well, remove and disassemble the hydraulic clutch system. Clean and reassemble it. Then bench bleed.
To remove the hydraulic line- use a 3/32 sized allen head, find a nail that matches the diameter, cut off the sharp point, use to bang out the pin holding the line in.
To remove master clutch cylinder- disconnect line, there are (2) 1/2" nuts behind gas pedal.
To remove slave cylinder- disconnect line, remove retaining ring.
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