Clutch Problems
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Clutch Problems
I have a manual 94 5.0 EFI. She's been running fine until this morning. Got in and started her up and the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor and I couldn't shift into gear. Thought she just might be temperamental with the cold weather so I let her run for a while. The pedal finally released but now when I depress it, instead of constant resistance, I don't get resistance until about 3/4 of the way to the floor. The clutch pedal is extremely sensitive now. I thought it might be the spring, but that seems fine. Eventually I was able to shift but not without seriously manhandling the stick into gear. It's like that with every gear even while running. I just bought her a month ago, so I thought I may have overlooked the transmission fluid. Only one problem, there is no dipstick. Any suggestions?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
From: "Garden State"
Check the clutch fluid level and condition. It sounds like the slave cylinder in the clutch has failed. Unfortunately this is an all too common problem. Hope you're mechanically inclined or have money saved up. They cost a lot to fix because of the labor involved. And while you have the clutch apart you might want to consider replacing other wear parts.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
From: In Hastings Delton area
Check and see if rod from clutch pedal to clutch master cylinder is broke or unhooked.On my 95 F 250 the rod broke .The rod was 1/2 steel and 1/2 graphite .Other cause could be leaking bad slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder.I ended up replacing both.The chilton Manual I think recomends replacing both believe .Bleeding the slave is a pain .What I did was bench bleed the master cylinder first with line attached to it capped the line then bled the slave .A chilton or haynes manual tells and shows how .On the slave cylinder you pour brake fluid in it and tip it at a 30 degree angle 'while holding it at this angle watch for air bubbles coming out continue to keep adding fluid and watching for air bubbles when you see no more air bubbles Hook it up to your line off the clutch master cylinder so your master and slave is hooked up together then install master cylinder on truck then with top off master push rod in on slave and hook holding strap to keep it in then install .This is the external slave .You may have a internal if so you got to pull transmission .The internal slave cylinder usually have a bleeder or a allen scew type bleeder .Good luck hope this helps .If you have never did this before you may want to take it to a repair shop
New User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Definately sounds like the slave cylinder is bad, I just finished replacing the the complete clutch including flywheel and slave cylinder on my 01 4X4, not for this reason,(slipping) but you have a LONG road ahead of you if you do it yourself.
Look under your truck everything from the oil pan back to the rear diff. has to come out, I spent 1.5 days under mine this weekend, and I will never do it again.
Look under your truck everything from the oil pan back to the rear diff. has to come out, I spent 1.5 days under mine this weekend, and I will never do it again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RenoHuskerDu
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
10
May 12, 2025 02:12 PM
x_man586
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
15
Jan 1, 2014 11:18 AM
1179
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
6
Aug 31, 2006 07:03 PM
