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What's the best way to remove thick rust, from castings?

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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 06:05 PM
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What's the best way to remove thick rust, from castings?

Have an old flathead head that I'm going to use for another project (rusted out waaaay beyond repair/any automotive use, literally dug up the engine).

As you may have gathered by this point in the post, it's rusty.

I baked it on the grill just now (done this before, with great success), and that tends to loosen just about all the rust, as well as of course totally nix any grease or organics that may be present. BUT, this is a flathead, with a massive, yet massively inaccessible water jacket.

With the combination of baking, and just good old wire brushing and scrubbing, I can get the outside totally clean, but I want the inside to be the same. Cleeeeean, so that I can use a dip to seal the entire thing, in and out, and it'll have a nice clean dry surface to adhere to.

What should I use to literally de-rust this? I'm not looking for coatings, I'm looking to get down to bare metal, and then I'll worry about the coating. I've heard mixed opinions on vinegar, the biggest issue being that it leaves a black film. I don't want a film, I want no touch clean, on the inside, where I can't reach.

Any help is appreciated, Thanks, AleX
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 06:15 PM
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Soak (submerged) it in a rust desolving solution. The liquid solution will get in the passages and desolve the rust. It isn't cheap but it works. I forget the company that made the sample I have.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 06:56 PM
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The machine shop I use uses an acid solution to soak the blocks and get rid of the rust.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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^^i was just about to say that most machine shops will have an acid bath for this kind of thing...
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 07:08 PM
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sandblasting?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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Can't sandblast the inside. But ya I've had stuff baked and vatted before at the machine shop, and it's nice, but it doesn't get everything, and I hate to pay for something like this, that I'm not even running.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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I use Concrete Etcher (phosphoric acid) from Home Depot. It's $12 a gallon and goes a loooooong way and is strong even when diluted 50/50 with water. I've got some JY springs for my 70 soaking right now (2nd full day) and 99% of the rust is nearly gone. A day or so more and it'll be ready for a thorough rinse and then some epoxy paint. Do it.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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Take it to a automotive machine sghop and let them hot tank it .... or you can rig up your own electrolisis rust removal tank using distilled water, baking soda, some sacrificlal electrodes (I use rebar) and a battery charger.

Takes a big tank for a block .... the hot tank is the best bet.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 09:54 PM
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I use industrial strength boiler/cooling tower descaler from "Delta" deltamarinecleaner.com - Delta Marine Cleaners

Just soak it for a while like you would a carb.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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this type of setup works pretty well, I used a tub and rebar.

Rust Removal Using Electrolysis
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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go to local plumbing supply!

check into some of the plumbers rust eaters chemicals. can mix with water sometimes. sodium hydroxide is the main solution you are looking for in dissolving rust. I use this on some of my older blocks when wanting really clean. On the surface a can of easy oven off really cleans block and will turn the block black and wash off and have a pure clean cast iron new looking block. check your plumber supply. if you get sodium hydroxide on you? You will be running for something to get it off of you Quickly!!!! you will be dancing. used to buy in crystals yrs ago and then mix with light oil and pour into places as needed. be careful on your eyes, safety safety safety!!!! the stuff burns and will eat you alive!!!!! but it works good and have running water, water hose ready. their is another product out but forget its name but you buy at a plumber supply that works, check with the experts on this paticular subject but look for sodium hydroxide.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by wyoming4x4
check into some of the plumbers rust eaters chemicals. can mix with water sometimes. sodium hydroxide is the main solution you are looking for in dissolving rust. I use this on some of my older blocks when wanting really clean. On the surface a can of easy oven off really cleans block and will turn the block black and wash off and have a pure clean cast iron new looking block. check your plumber supply. if you get sodium hydroxide on you? You will be running for something to get it off of you Quickly!!!! you will be dancing. used to buy in crystals yrs ago and then mix with light oil and pour into places as needed. be careful on your eyes, safety safety safety!!!! the stuff burns and will eat you alive!!!!! but it works good and have running water, water hose ready. their is another product out but forget its name but you buy at a plumber supply that works, check with the experts on this paticular subject but look for sodium hydroxide.
FYI - Sodium hydroxide is the main ingredient in.... Drano®!... and is also called caustic soda.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 12:15 AM
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Dont know if it is still available but years ago used a product in the hot tank called Oakite. Wonderfull for iron but will disolve others.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 05:56 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by tbear853
Take it to a automotive machine sghop and let them hot tank it .... or you can rig up your own electrolisis rust removal tank using distilled water, baking soda, some sacrificlal electrodes (I use rebar) and a battery charger.

Takes a big tank for a block .... the hot tank is the best bet.
Les: Think he mentioned just doing the head. Your process would be the cheapest and easiest for just that.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 06:48 AM
  #15  
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I've had really good results with Evapo-Rust if you can submerge it and let is sit for a day. It isn't an acid and doesn't eat the metal.
 
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