Rust Ridge on these rotors - Resurface or Replace??
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Rust Ridge on these rotors - Resurface or Replace??
Like to get some opinions on what to do with these rotors. This morning I start a rear pad replacement job on my 02 F250 superduty 4x4. The plan was to pull the rotors to get them turned so my new Motorcraft pads would seat more even. All was going as expected until I discovered the inner pad had a groove on it due a rust ridge.
I didn't go any further because I wasn't sure if it would be wise to proceed with a resurfacing.
What do you think? Would resurface be OK? Or should I replace?
I'm not looking race car stopping. Just something that I hope to last me trouble-free for the next 50K miles or so.
Here are some pictures. Many thanks...
I didn't go any further because I wasn't sure if it would be wise to proceed with a resurfacing.
What do you think? Would resurface be OK? Or should I replace?
I'm not looking race car stopping. Just something that I hope to last me trouble-free for the next 50K miles or so.
Here are some pictures. Many thanks...
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Whittier, CA
I don't think that's a rusty ridge. That's where the machining pass stopped, and it rusted like the rest of the unused areas of the rotor. It seems odd that your pad rubbed that area. It really shouldn't. Best I can tell from photos anyway.
Have you slipped the new pads on and see if they are going to be bridged up on the ridge? Maybe the pads are not that wide.
If they do rub that ridge, then you could turn the rotors and ask the shop to clean them up a little closer to the center hub. Take an old pad with you to shown them why.
Most guys here say don't turn rotors, just replace them. So that's your call as well.
Have you slipped the new pads on and see if they are going to be bridged up on the ridge? Maybe the pads are not that wide.
If they do rub that ridge, then you could turn the rotors and ask the shop to clean them up a little closer to the center hub. Take an old pad with you to shown them why.
Most guys here say don't turn rotors, just replace them. So that's your call as well.
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Hi Bill,
Well...after trying to get the rotors off for a while, I gave up. In the process of hammering away I found the rust ridge flaked off pretty easily. So I ended up taping around the rust ridge to get rid of it completely. Then I smoothed it down with an old knife wetstone.
I simply put on the new pads and just came back from a test drive. So far the brakes are fine. No pulsation and no noise. Stops better than my old pads too.
Many thanks for the suggestion. I usually like to get them resurfaced but this time I just couldn't get them off. If they give me trouble, I'll just order a new set of rotors. Time to invest in a sledge hammer for next time too
Ivan
Well...after trying to get the rotors off for a while, I gave up. In the process of hammering away I found the rust ridge flaked off pretty easily. So I ended up taping around the rust ridge to get rid of it completely. Then I smoothed it down with an old knife wetstone.
I simply put on the new pads and just came back from a test drive. So far the brakes are fine. No pulsation and no noise. Stops better than my old pads too.
Many thanks for the suggestion. I usually like to get them resurfaced but this time I just couldn't get them off. If they give me trouble, I'll just order a new set of rotors. Time to invest in a sledge hammer for next time too
Ivan
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Central FL
Thats not always true. The only way to tell if the rotors need to be replaced is with a mic, feeler gauges and a service manual. If they are in spec and not warped then your just wasting money
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That's basically what I was thinking too. the rear rotors measured at 29.8mm in thickness. The rotors themselves are stamped 28mm minimum. So I think as long as the machine shop don't go beyond 28mm, then I think the rotors should be fine.
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Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
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From: Whittier, CA
You CAN turn them as long as you don't go under the spec thickness, which I have always found cast right on the rotor. You could make the argument that it is a good idea to turn them, because they have already gone through thousands of heat/cool cycles and have warped all they are ever going to.
You could also argue that stopping the job while you schlep them down to a machine shop is not worth the cost of new rotors.
You could also argue that unless they are scored, just slap new pads on them and good as new.
I don't consider any of those as cutting corners or not doing the job right. They are just different ways to get the job done.
You could also argue that stopping the job while you schlep them down to a machine shop is not worth the cost of new rotors.
You could also argue that unless they are scored, just slap new pads on them and good as new.
I don't consider any of those as cutting corners or not doing the job right. They are just different ways to get the job done.
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