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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

CV cross member swap time.

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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 11:38 PM
  #1  
Ziegelsteinfaust's Avatar
Ziegelsteinfaust
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From: Chino Hills
CV cross member swap time.

I will do the CV swap this June after my classes end so I can make my truck into a real cool comuter. So I was wondering how long it took you guys to accomplis the task? I plan to get it done is less then 2 weeks, and I figure I may be done in less the 8 if things go well for me.

1 day to remove front sheet metal, engine, tranny, and bed.

1 day to level the truck on blocks, cut-out crossmember, and rough in the CV crossmember.

2 days to finish mounting the CV crossmember, mock up motor mounts, bolt in engine, and add in a C6.

1 day to do CV rear axle with corrisponding drop, and measure for the driveshafts.

1 day to install the front sheetmetal, and bed. Maybe cut the bed if nessacary.

1 day to re-start the motor, and verify everything works again.

1 day for re-plumbing the brakes and other minor things.

Then when my new driveshafts come in, and new rear shocks the testing can begin. Which should leave plenty of time to get it all back up to spec.

I know I am leaving exhaust out, but that will be done by a shop while I relax. Plus I may try the mustang fuel tank if I get far enough ahead in the first few days, but this is probily to much of a stretch. So I will probily end up leave this for a winter project along with new seats.

I will have my cousin and his friend helping me out since they want to learn how to hot-rod. So its mildly possible they could speed up the process, and allow me to get a few of the things done at the same time.

What do you guys think?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 11:48 PM
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Shorty 66
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From: Berthoud, Colorado
If you plan on using the cv rearend FYI it is WAT too wide. I've done a couple of these swaps and I found having the rear axles redrilled to the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. If you can get a rearend from a full size ford 64-71 is about .25" narrower than the stock F-100 axle. What motor are you running. If you are using a Ford v8 you will need a rear sump oil pan, otherwise the motor will set to high in the chassis. keep the old lines from the cv frontend and use them rather than building new ones, it's much eaiser.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 09:52 AM
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tymatt67
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I was with you till you mentioned teaching your cousin and friend "how to hod rod". Either have an experienced helper or do it yourself. Youll have plenty of things to think about without the agravation of someone elses getting in the way of your thoughts. Im not sure of your skill level but may want to just do the front first. I did the swap myself and its awesome. Take your time mesuring wheelbase and cross corner. Dont forget PWR steering hoses and steering shaft bolth require fabrication.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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I thought the CV rear axle woulde fit with the CV or Mustang rims. So if I got a later full size 9" it fits with the rims? Is it becouse they some crazy width for the rear of the CV?

I have been looking at a 4wd pan for this swap, but I would probily have to cut down the pan from 8" to 6". So I won't bottom it out like mad.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 10:45 PM
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Ziegelsteinfaust
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From: Chino Hills
Originally Posted by tymatt67
I was with you till you mentioned teaching your cousin and friend "how to hod rod". Either have an experienced helper or do it yourself. Youll have plenty of things to think about without the agravation of someone elses getting in the way of your thoughts. Im not sure of your skill level but may want to just do the front first. I did the swap myself and its awesome. Take your time mesuring wheelbase and cross corner. Dont forget PWR steering hoses and steering shaft bolth require fabrication.

My cousin and his friend are good for helping with the dirty work, and for help lifting the crossmember in. Beyond that I will not have them touching anything that really matters. Both are eager to learn and are fun to hang with. Plus they don't get on my nerves so I am hoping they will help me speed up the process a bit. I could do it myself, but it really doesn't matter one way or another.

I will be practicing welding here in a month to get ready for the swap. I used to be handing with the arc, but I am rusty now. I feel this would be easier then the frame Z'ing I did years ago.

I figure it will only take about an hour to cut the shaft, add in the cv joints, and a carrier bearing for the center shaft. I think the motor mounts will be a bigger problem becouse of having to level the motor and such.
 
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