As many of you know from my posts I am torn between the CV swap for cost, and the C10 swap for running 15's and lowering parts.

For you guys who just wanna run stock height or just a couple of inches down the C10 is a viable choice. It practically bolts in, but you will need to notch it for oil pan clearence. You could probily raise up your truck if your so willing.

For guys like me who wanna run really low. You should build your own crossmember, and move the A-arm mounts in or shorten the A-arms 1-1.5 inches. You will also need to use the 4x4 pan, and possiblely shorten the front sump on the pan. Then you should run a custom M2 steering rack to avoid the problems of the steering box, and its moving parts.

The C10 much like my 66 F100 kicks up in the front, I based my measurements off the crank centerline for both vehicles, and I used my 352FE for my basis point. So lowering will be similar to the C10 when kits are used, and so will the issues associated. C10's are know to smash the A-arms into speed bumps when a 4-6 or 5-7 is done with normal sized tires 26-27 inch tall.

You can section a C10 crossmember, but this maybe better left for Chevy motors not the FE I will be running. So I am in the position that I can barely section enough of my crossmember to work, or for the amount of work I would have to do just build my own crossmember, and I would need to use a steering rack to make it easier. Also how much can you really move up a FE and C6 combo to gain crossmember clearance.

So the C10 may not work on 67 and later Fords with out Z'ing the frame if you are like me. From what I have seen in the PYP's and in pic's the later frames do not kick up enough or very much at all.

So if your really in the mood to do it rather you modify the stock crossmember to gain anough room for a FE or you build your own. You will be in for a good couple of days of fab work. Custom tubular A-arms are easily available to finish to look off.

Now for the F-250's and 350's the C20 and 30 crossmembers much like the C10 could be a good upgrade especially for the straight axle boys, and not break the bank.

Well what to do? That is up to each of use to decide, but all this work to run a FE is problematec. 302W maybe a good choice, but I don't have one to measure.

Remember measure twice cut once, and use it as a template for the 3rd time around.

 

If you use the rear sump 4x4 pan, will that give enough clearance? Chevy motors are all rear sump.

 

Not by itself. You will still need to section the crossmember.

You could also shorten the front sump section from 4.5 to 2.5 inches, and possabley raise the engine/tranny. I do not have a 352/C6 to verify this thought.