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my truck has been starting up fine and stalling after getting warmed up. after stall, the truck won't run again until it cools down. After cool it will start and get me home. I rebuilt the IPR, changed the fuel filter. No change.
I took it to the dealer and after 3 days ond only a cam sensor code they think it is bad fuel. They say my fuel will burn on the ground when lit. I told them that I put Diesel Kleen in my fuel and they said that shouldn't matter. They want $800 to drop & drain my tanks and blow out my lines. I have tons of questions as to wether that is even the problem. The mechanic told me After 3 days and only a cam sensor code that " draining the tanks and blowing out the lines is a good place to start" They sound like they are guessing on my dollar.
Would the IPR throw a code. Does this sound like a fuel problem. I getting sick of this.
Sounds like a bad Cam Posistion Sensor since it is throwing a cam sensor code. Get it outta there and change it your self. Tell them you want to buy a CPS and put it in and see what it does.
The dealer did that with my tractor a couple years ago. 3 TIMES! and tried to charge me for it. It was the fuel pump on it and I kept telling them that but it was under warranty so....
Diesel fuel is pretty nice. If it lights off and starts then it's not your problem. Unless its filling your filter with water. Nothing about getting warm will make the diesel change. I've run it at almost half salt water before, mixed with gas, used gear oil and god knows what else. It either burns or it doesn't.
I would lean more towards a bad solder joint on the pcm or the injector driver. It's been a known problem on them in the past but it should have shown up before now. That could cause the code too. Loose chip too. I bet that's where the problem is.
All they need to do is verify fuel pressure when warm ,idle & wot.
Have you verified injector O rings are good ?..
how would they verify that. Right now all they have verified is they guess it's the fuel. I have a feeling if it is labor intensive they haven't checked it. The guy I know is a mechanic there so I'm getting a special deal. I hope it doesn't keep them from getting invasive with it.
Sounds like a bad Cam Posistion Sensor since it is throwing a cam sensor code. Get it outta there and change it your self. Tell them you want to buy a CPS and put it in and see what it does.
CPS code can be from long crank during a no start also...
Tell them if they really thinks it fuel that they need to drain the filter bowl and run the truck from a fuel can before they guess with your $800. If it runs with fresh fuel from a can then they can drain the tank.
Tell them if they really thinks it fuel that they need to drain the filter bowl and run the truck from a fuel can before they guess with your $800. If it runs with fresh fuel from a can then they can drain the tank.
That is exactly what I said and they said they didn't have the ability to do that because of the fuel pump or some B.S. I think it wasn't a quick fix so they are wanting to make some coin or be done with it.
how would they verify that. Right now all they have verified is they guess it's the fuel. I have a feeling if it is labor intensive they haven't checked it. The guy I know is a mechanic there so I'm getting a special deal. I hope it doesn't keep them from getting invasive with it.
SPECIAL DEAL, sounds like a bend over special deal. He might be a friend of yours but his boss is riding shoot gun. X2 on what Tim said also. Just draining the fuel bowl and refilling it up will tell you alot. The best way is like Tim said. Sorry, I get carried away hearing these stories.
i'll give you a better deal i'll clean your fuel system for 600.00 LOL
Sorry couldn't help it
YOU CAN RUN THAT TRUCK OFF OF A FUEL TANK FROM A BOAT
It's not the fuel. How could my truck drive for exactly 10-12 minutes before stalling if it was a bad fuel issue. I can tell you how long I have before it dies every time. I also remembered thaty I ran one of the tanks down to fumes and then refuled. The truck drove exactly the same. In my opinion, it is to predictably spuradic if that makes sense.
By the way. The $600 remark was funny but the guy giving me that price was the head diesel mechanic at the dealership. My buddy works on gasers. He told me once the guy was out of the picture" screw that, I'll replace the sensor and clean the tanks for around $100."
If this cam sensor doesn't fix the problem and we rule out the fuel, anyone got any other suggestions. My buddy said it did throw a IPR code but he thought that was because they had been messing with it.
Right now all they have verified is they guess it's the fuel.
And that pretty much sums it up right there.
Originally Posted by tjbeggs
If they are not smart enough to figure out how to feed the engine out of a can then they are NOT smart enough to fix your issues.
X2. They're just throwing your money at it hoping to get lucky.
Originally Posted by german41274
It's not the fuel. How could my truck drive for exactly 10-12 minutes before stalling if it was a bad fuel issue.
See? Even you are smarter than the so called mechanic. What happens after 10-12 minutes is the engine warms up. Now we need to determine what the real problem is.
Rebuilding the IPR is not always 100% effective. Sometimes you just have to replace it. Of course our first step should be the basics. Engine oil full, not past due for a change, and is of the proper weight and rating? Fuel and air filter in good shape too? Any additives in the oil?
How does the engine stall? Cough, buck and sputter, or shut down like someone just shut the key off?
Change the cps,thease things do weired things,even when the codes doesn,t show it to be the problem.Might be a cheap fix,if not the problem then, you will have a spare which you will need later on,but these guys on here are a lot smater than i am.
Jim