ignition nightmare
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
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It "shouldn't" be a problem. There is a clip on the bottom of the oil pump shaft to prevent that, but it has been known to happen. Usually when someone is reinstalling the distributor and tries to force it down instead of getting the shaft lined back up. When it's right, distributor will drop back down over the shaft without resorting to a hammer which some people have been known to do. When dizzy is out, looking inside engine, you can see the hex shaped pump shaft that fits in the bottom of distributor shaft.
As posted, you can replace the pickup coil without pulling distributor. Check for any side to side play of the rotor shaft while you have the cap off. Double check your ground strap from engine block to firewall, I have seen this cause all sorts of electrical problems. Switch could still be bad, heavy key chains have been known to wear out the tumblers over time. Internet trouble shooting is not an exact science.
As posted, you can replace the pickup coil without pulling distributor. Check for any side to side play of the rotor shaft while you have the cap off. Double check your ground strap from engine block to firewall, I have seen this cause all sorts of electrical problems. Switch could still be bad, heavy key chains have been known to wear out the tumblers over time. Internet trouble shooting is not an exact science.
can you recommend a distributor to use and a weblink to find it,hope i have not asked for to much on this forum,is a great place for help..
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Freshman User
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right now i will take some bad nasty lazy fairies, anyhelp at all!!!!!!!!!!
i have tried all suggested,and even tried laying my hands on it praying unto the mechanical enlighteners above...
the distributor changeout is probably my last deed...
but the one i am hesitant on...stuck distributor for one reason.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
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From: Raphine, Virginia
You should put your location in your profile. I help people out if they are close enough and so do other members. Never know, you might get lucky. Great bunch of guy's on here. Everyone started learning by doing, as long as you have the desire. Some people hate it and would rather pay a mechanic.
Senior User
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The duraspark box on the fenderwell would be my guess. If thats what your calling the ICM it would still be my guess. Even if you put a new one in it could be bad. My best freind is a One of the best Ford mechanics out there and he only buys them from Ford. He said many aftermarket one dont have all the features of the Ford units and have and has had trucks towed in years ago with brand new bad units from the discount parts houses. Hopefully their still available from Ford. Also you want the grommet color on the box to be correct. dealer may be the best one to know what color your truck should have. Reason I think its the box is you said it tries to start when you let off the key. Mechanic explained to me (when I was having issues) that these are designed to have a start and a run circuit in these and that one or the other could fail. He also said some of the cheaper boxes had only one circuit and uses it for both. Just my two cents from my expereinces with old non stock trucks and having to get by with what I had. May want to get a second box to plug in when this happens to see if it helps. Some people even bolt a second box next to the first so if it goes out swap the wires and get out of the road. Best of luck!!!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 333
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From: Lawton, OK
I got rid of my Duraspark box. I've had too many no-starts from those things, even when they were "new" units from local auto parts stores. I wired in a Mallory Hyfire 6AL box, and the truck runs great, if not better. Other than that, I'd be looking at wiring and connectors. The connectors on my distributor were so old and brittle they just crumbled when I went to disconnect them. I'd be willing to bet you have a resistance-related short or open circuit. Go through your connectors and look for looseness. If you find a bad one, replace it with a WeatherPak connector.
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Freshman User
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If it is the pickup coil, you don't have to pull the distributor to replace the pickup (at least I didn't on my 77). Fairly easy repair. However, if the bushings on the shaft are worn allowing the shaft to wobble, you will need to pull and replace the distributor.
firstonraceday, could you or anyone give me a little more info on changing out the pickup coil without removing distributor
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Freshman User
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ignition nightmare UPDATE
Dropped a new distributor with the pickup coil into the 400 engine today,will drive it awhile and report back if it cuts out again.
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Just in case your new distributor doesn't work as hoped, or for future reference...
I had a problem with similar symptoms - engine just dying randomly.
Turned out that the horseshoe clip that held my wires onto the coil was loose/bad, and random vibrations from driving down the road would sometimes break the electrical connection and the engine would die. couldn't figure it out till i happened to wiggle that clip by hand while the engine was running.
I had a problem with similar symptoms - engine just dying randomly.
Turned out that the horseshoe clip that held my wires onto the coil was loose/bad, and random vibrations from driving down the road would sometimes break the electrical connection and the engine would die. couldn't figure it out till i happened to wiggle that clip by hand while the engine was running.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 781
Likes: 18
From: East Texas
Sorry, just got back to the thread. Looks like you've gone ahead and changed the distributor. Hopefully, that will solve it. In case you need it though (I had a rebuilt distributor and the pickup coil went bad), here is what I did:
Remove distributor cap and then rotor, you'll have access to the pickup.
The pickup is held down by a screw in the bottom of the distributor body and held in place on the shaft by a c-clip in a groove on the shaft. Remove clip and screw. Place new pickup coil in distributor, replace c-clip, screw, rotor and cap. As I recall that's all there is to it (the cable harness is in a grommet that slides into a slot on the side of the distributor body).
Remove distributor cap and then rotor, you'll have access to the pickup.
The pickup is held down by a screw in the bottom of the distributor body and held in place on the shaft by a c-clip in a groove on the shaft. Remove clip and screw. Place new pickup coil in distributor, replace c-clip, screw, rotor and cap. As I recall that's all there is to it (the cable harness is in a grommet that slides into a slot on the side of the distributor body).
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Freshman User
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my trouble was the distriutor and or pickup coil in the dizzy,figures it would be last thing i replaced,but was also very easy..
i used a pry bar to nudge it back and forth and then pry from under the tab thingy on distributor upwards and she started to come up,then more spray and work it back and forth some more ,and out she came..prior to all this i brought the engine to TDC with the rotor pointing to number one plug post. installation was very easy ,just had to mesh the gears just right and it dropped in perfectly.
TRUCK FIRED RIGHT UP ,now i gotta get a timing light and finish the job..
i searched this dentside forum and found all kinds of help,i most likely could have figured it all out by searching old posts and threads but was nice to get personal attention,
cant thank this forum enough,hope i can help others now.thanks for teaching me how to fish!
i used a pry bar to nudge it back and forth and then pry from under the tab thingy on distributor upwards and she started to come up,then more spray and work it back and forth some more ,and out she came..prior to all this i brought the engine to TDC with the rotor pointing to number one plug post. installation was very easy ,just had to mesh the gears just right and it dropped in perfectly.
TRUCK FIRED RIGHT UP ,now i gotta get a timing light and finish the job..
i searched this dentside forum and found all kinds of help,i most likely could have figured it all out by searching old posts and threads but was nice to get personal attention,
cant thank this forum enough,hope i can help others now.thanks for teaching me how to fish!
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,735
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From: TX
Glad you got it workin agian!
For future reference, replacing the pick-up coil is VERY simple. Get a small gear puller and a screw driver. Pull cap and rotor, you will see a stator. Pull that off with the gear puller, careful not to loose the key-way that keeps it from sliding around the shaft. Once you pulled that, there will be a c-clip on the shaft (above the pick-up and below the stator), and 2 screws that need to come off and wa-la! Bing Bam Boom. Takes 10 minutes at most.
For future reference, replacing the pick-up coil is VERY simple. Get a small gear puller and a screw driver. Pull cap and rotor, you will see a stator. Pull that off with the gear puller, careful not to loose the key-way that keeps it from sliding around the shaft. Once you pulled that, there will be a c-clip on the shaft (above the pick-up and below the stator), and 2 screws that need to come off and wa-la! Bing Bam Boom. Takes 10 minutes at most.
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Freshman User
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Glad you got it workin agian!
For future reference, replacing the pick-up coil is VERY simple. Get a small gear puller and a screw driver. Pull cap and rotor, you will see a stator. Pull that off with the gear puller, careful not to loose the key-way that keeps it from sliding around the shaft. Once you pulled that, there will be a c-clip on the shaft (above the pick-up and below the stator), and 2 screws that need to come off and wa-la! Bing Bam Boom. Takes 10 minutes at most.
For future reference, replacing the pick-up coil is VERY simple. Get a small gear puller and a screw driver. Pull cap and rotor, you will see a stator. Pull that off with the gear puller, careful not to loose the key-way that keeps it from sliding around the shaft. Once you pulled that, there will be a c-clip on the shaft (above the pick-up and below the stator), and 2 screws that need to come off and wa-la! Bing Bam Boom. Takes 10 minutes at most.
but for just $20 bucks more you get the whole distributor with pickup coil and vacuum and all..
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,735
Likes: 0
From: TX
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