ignition nightmare
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
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ignition nightmare
my truck is a 1977 f150 ranger xlt trailer special with 400 engine,
was my father in laws truck,he had an issue with it dying and leaving him stranded,needing a tow home,and then starting again like nothing wrong.the ignition failure is becoming more frequent.
we checked ignition by pulling a plug wire and holding near frame ,there was no spark at first but after cranking engine for awhile it sparked like it should,and started.i have replaced coil,ICM,voltage regulator,cap rotor and wires and plugs.
every stinkin time i replaced a part it would start up like that is the part that fixed it,only to not start later..
i have a new ignition switch i have not put in yet ,because it started ok for me this morning after replacing the last part which was the voltage regulator,but i suspect it will let me down again,and i will change out the key switch,and it would not surprise me when it starts again,and no surprise when it fails later, does this ring any bells for anyone who has chased a problem like this?
seems like a short somewhere , but i have gone over every wire i could get my hands on... can you help??
was my father in laws truck,he had an issue with it dying and leaving him stranded,needing a tow home,and then starting again like nothing wrong.the ignition failure is becoming more frequent.
we checked ignition by pulling a plug wire and holding near frame ,there was no spark at first but after cranking engine for awhile it sparked like it should,and started.i have replaced coil,ICM,voltage regulator,cap rotor and wires and plugs.
every stinkin time i replaced a part it would start up like that is the part that fixed it,only to not start later..
i have a new ignition switch i have not put in yet ,because it started ok for me this morning after replacing the last part which was the voltage regulator,but i suspect it will let me down again,and i will change out the key switch,and it would not surprise me when it starts again,and no surprise when it fails later, does this ring any bells for anyone who has chased a problem like this?
seems like a short somewhere , but i have gone over every wire i could get my hands on... can you help??
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 780
Likes: 18
From: East Texas
As you have replaced everything else, it could be the magnetic pickup in the distributor. It will exhibit the same symptoms as the ignition module when it is going bad. Runs fine, truck gets good and warm, ignition quits. After truck cools off, it will start again.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 216
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From: North Branch, MI
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago with the 302 in my 78. Replace everything and the problem still persisted. I finally pulled the distributor and could hardly spin it by hand. Put in a rebuilt unit and have not had any problem since.
Hope this helps, have a great day.
Bob G
Hope this helps, have a great day.
Bob G
New User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 8
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I'm kinda new around here, but I had a 78 F150 with a 400. Got a TON of good miles out of that thing.
I replaced the Distributor once, I think it was for this problem. The whole thing was like $40 from a major chain auto parts store. The bushings were worn out allowing the shaft to wiggle, among other things (bad magnetic pickup). (I bought just the pickup first, then discovered the shaft wobble)
I replaced the Distributor once, I think it was for this problem. The whole thing was like $40 from a major chain auto parts store. The bushings were worn out allowing the shaft to wiggle, among other things (bad magnetic pickup). (I bought just the pickup first, then discovered the shaft wobble)
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 868
Likes: 3
From: New Glasgow, Nova Scotia
The only thing you missed was the Duraspark ing. box on the drivers inner fender. This will cause the trouble you are haveng as well, had one drive me batty a few years back, I swapped out everything and the truck would run perfect -----------for a while then act like you shut it off, wait a few minutes and away we go again. Finally got an ing. box and that was the end of that. God luck
New User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 19
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Yea, I vote Distributer as well. I think that year had one of the first Magnetic pickups - be careful on the replacment part likely could be a bad rebuild if not a quality part. Maybe some aftermarket setup is in order here. I hate bad rebuilt parts and the year and part are suspect form the gate.
Temecula
Temecula
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just got back from gettin truck inspected,mechanic said pickup coil ,which i think is what most of you were refering to.
problem is distributor is stuck(prob should check on the post i started about stuck distributor)anyhow he said about an hour to do the job.
i have never pulled a distributor ,is this a tough job ? anyone wanna take the time to describe it?thanks for all your replies ..
problem is distributor is stuck(prob should check on the post i started about stuck distributor)anyhow he said about an hour to do the job.
i have never pulled a distributor ,is this a tough job ? anyone wanna take the time to describe it?thanks for all your replies ..
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Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Raphine, Virginia
If you have a meter you should read 400-800 ohms between orange and purple wire. Either one to black wire 70,000 ohms. That will verify the pickup coil. We can walk you thru pulling the distributor, just be aware putting it back in can be frustrating if you have no patience. Worst case in pulling the distributor is the oil pump shaft drops into oil pan. No trying to scare you, just making you aware of what can go wrong. Check back before you start if you decide to do it yourself. Either way, start soaking the distributor base with PB Blaster so even if you have it done, it will save the mechanic time=cost.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 780
Likes: 18
From: East Texas
If it is the pickup coil, you don't have to pull the distributor to replace the pickup (at least I didn't on my 77). Fairly easy repair. However, if the bushings on the shaft are worn allowing the shaft to wobble, you will need to pull and replace the distributor.
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Freshman User
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drove the truck around town today,ran ok,parked it and tried starting a few minutes ago,and no starty,rolled it over about three times turning key on and off.and it did start finally.
so do you all think is still pickup coil? was a cold engine which it usually was when the no start problem shows up.
so now i am thinking about putting in the new key switch.
reason i have suspected key switch was how the truck wanted to start when key was let go, has anyone dealt with a similar key switch problem?
yesterday when driving over railroad tracks engine stumbled and nearly stalled,i nursed it home and installed the voltage regulator,thought i fixed it again for the umpteenth time,but..
so what ya all think??
so do you all think is still pickup coil? was a cold engine which it usually was when the no start problem shows up.
so now i am thinking about putting in the new key switch.
reason i have suspected key switch was how the truck wanted to start when key was let go, has anyone dealt with a similar key switch problem?
yesterday when driving over railroad tracks engine stumbled and nearly stalled,i nursed it home and installed the voltage regulator,thought i fixed it again for the umpteenth time,but..
so what ya all think??
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
If you have a meter you should read 400-800 ohms between orange and purple wire. Either one to black wire 70,000 ohms. That will verify the pickup coil. We can walk you thru pulling the distributor, just be aware putting it back in can be frustrating if you have no patience. Worst case in pulling the distributor is the oil pump shaft drops into oil pan. No trying to scare you, just making you aware of what can go wrong. Check back before you start if you decide to do it yourself. Either way, start soaking the distributor base with PB Blaster so even if you have it done, it will save the mechanic time=cost.
TOO LATE you scared me,parts dropping off YIKES!!
OK,what can i do to avoid that???
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
It "shouldn't" be a problem. There is a clip on the bottom of the oil pump shaft to prevent that, but it has been known to happen. Usually when someone is reinstalling the distributor and tries to force it down instead of getting the shaft lined back up. When it's right, distributor will drop back down over the shaft without resorting to a hammer which some people have been known to do. When dizzy is out, looking inside engine, you can see the hex shaped pump shaft that fits in the bottom of distributor shaft.
As posted, you can replace the pickup coil without pulling distributor. Check for any side to side play of the rotor shaft while you have the cap off. Double check your ground strap from engine block to firewall, I have seen this cause all sorts of electrical problems. Switch could still be bad, heavy key chains have been known to wear out the tumblers over time. Internet trouble shooting is not an exact science.
As posted, you can replace the pickup coil without pulling distributor. Check for any side to side play of the rotor shaft while you have the cap off. Double check your ground strap from engine block to firewall, I have seen this cause all sorts of electrical problems. Switch could still be bad, heavy key chains have been known to wear out the tumblers over time. Internet trouble shooting is not an exact science.
I had a ignition switch give those problems. changed it out,fixed.
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Freshman User
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As you have replaced everything else, it could be the magnetic pickup in the distributor. It will exhibit the same symptoms as the ignition module when it is going bad. Runs fine, truck gets good and warm, ignition quits. After truck cools off, it will start again.
went for a ride today,down the highway about a half mile,stopped at hardware store,went in did my thing,came out and it fired up nicely,back to highway,truck cruises nice at 65,stopped for gas kept it running,pulled out of gas station and stopped at light,and when i started through the intersection it quit,no hesitation no bucking or chugging or any warning whatsoever it just quit,,,i had enough momentum to get me through the intersection,turned her over a couple times and she fired up like nothing ever happened...does this sound like distributor pickup coil????
it started without waiting to cool down,and sometimes a cold start in morning gives me nothing,i just cant figure it out...
