...once again...in my travels......I ran across...

...Super Alloy 1...

White Metal Headlight Trim Repair

Check out this video...and there are MANY more...interesting...

I'm just wonderin' what the content of this stuff is as the melting point
"seems" to be VERY low...somewhere around 350* maybe...

I'll be runnin' some errands later today & gonna swing by the welding supply
so I'll ask some questions & see if I can find out anything...

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Yeah, very low melting point. It almost looks like plumbers solder. Didn't really look like it's ready for plating. The surface is very rough and uneven. Intresting though. I'd like to repair some pot metal trim myself. I wonder what they use in professional plating shops? I saw an article in Street Rodder highlighting Sherm's plating process and they showed pot metal repair being done but I don't think they said what the filler metal was.

 

Muggy weld is suitable for white metal repair before replating. IMHO the original plating should be stripped first, the pits cleaned out and the tiny ones opened up with a small ball burr in a dremel type tool before filling with muggyweld. The surface will need smoothing after filling, there are several methods to accomplish this, but remember the chrome will accent every flaw, scratch and ripple you leave behind so if you aren't up to being that detail oriented (**** retentive) and extremely patient, pay an expert to do it for you.

 

If you do make repair on any metal prior to plating leave something there for the platers to work with - most don't want plate ready pieces

 

...noted...

I just happened across the site and thought it looked kinda kool.

Just for giggles...I have a few extra pices of hood trim that I do
not plan on reusing due to the condition they are in I have repops)
...but I do NOT want to just toss them out......sooooooo...

...I was thinkin'....there has got to be "something KOOL I can do with
these things around the house, garage, basement pub....you get the idea...

But...I may need to "modify" them... "slightly"...accordingly.....

Ya know...add a mounting stud or small bracket or "whatever" to fit the
ocasion...

I just don't want this to turn in to a big PITA while I reuse these ol' Effie
parts & add a little more fun around here so I'm just a worried about using
a MIG or gas-ax on the potmetal...

The only soldering iron I have is a tiny-a$$ one left over from college
electrical circutboard classes....and a VERY small spool of lead-based
solder as well...

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Lead solder won't stick to white metal and it is unlikely you could get it hot enough with an electronic type soldering iron to melt anything. I suppose you could try an electric hot plate (make sure it never is used for food again) or a handheld propane torch (be sure you are only GENTLY heating the piece or you will melt it!) You always want the heat in the work to melt the solder, not the heat source so don't apply the heat directly to the solder ex: muggyweld. Usually the flux required will help determine when to add the solder ex: melts, flows or turns glassy read the directions.
If you are only interested in using the pieces for display, JB Weld would probably be strong enough. clean the parts with acetone or MEK to remove dirt and grease before gluing.

 

THANKs AX...

Kinda what I was thinkin'...dontcha know I'm real low on acetylene so I
gotta go to the welding supply anywho...I found all my empty bottles
and ignitor for the small tanks!

Still can't figure why they're still here...

Maybe I'll bring one piece with for show-N-tell...that always helps!

Good call on the JB Weld..I always have some of THAT stashed "somewhere"...

I'll keep ya posted & let ya know how it plays out...

ThankX again all...

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Thanks for the post and link. I hadn't seen Muggy Weld before. Looks promising for a cracked block I need to repair. I have nickel rod but haven't attempted to weld it due to heat stress and hardening issues.

I may just spend a C note and give it a go with the #77 rod.

 

I doubt muggy weld will repair a cracked block.

 

Ax I was looking thru the website and found a section on welding cast iron - not the solder in the link above for pot metal.

I don't have much to lose with my cracked blocks and if it should work - I'm ahead. I can practice on the one that's junk.

 

I thought this was going to be about welding in Houston or somewhere else on the coast.

 

I have used 2 methods for repairing cast. The Oldest method is brazeing.
The part has to be really clean, You need a good flux for the process , You must heat the whole piece. The braze repair is a capilary process that bonds to the metal like a glue. It is not a molten combination of the base cast Iron and the brazeing rod. Just a really well bonded "glue" joint when done correctly.
The other method uses a high nickel content rod with a special flux stick welded on AC or DC . Again the part must be pre heated to near red hot at the joint and it must be cooled very slowly. It helps to peen the weld every inch or so. The idea is that the weld will cool at a much greater rate than the surrounding cast. To avoid the inevetable cracks next to the weld the welded area must be streched as it cools. I used to use a wekd fkux descaling peening tool or an air chisel with a pointed chisel and beat the heck out of the inch long weld. Then weld annother inch etc. after it is welded completly it must be cooled slowly. I have welded farmall Cub tractors together at the engine / transmission junction. That was in the day when you could buy an asbestos blanket and actually lay in a charcoal fire pit welding on a red hot gearcase. after the whole weld was complete you must bury the whole thing with sand for two or three days to cool slowly. When properly done you can even grind the weld smooth on the outside and peen the surface to look much like the casting. My father in law;s cub ran with a welded case for fifteen years b-4 he passed and the cub is still running 45 years later.

 

I have used the Muggy Weld with some success, you can check out the pics in my gallery under "Chrome Work" to see a couple of DeSoto grille teeth and a 50 Merc grille center that I repaired and had plated.