hi all,

i guess apology in advance for several questions in a row....

77 f100/ 351/ automatic/2wd

the status quo is that the truck is out in the drive with the oil pan dropped down from the engine block sitting on the front crossmember. i had the idea this morning that i would simply pull down the pan, clean the pickup, maybe replace the oil pump, and change out the gasket.

not so simple. got all the bolts off, and the pan dropped down but can't seem to get it to slide out, even after removing the bottom radiator hose, idler pulley, and trans cooler lines. my question; is it possible to remove the oil pan without pulling the engine/removing the engine mounts/jacking up the block etc.... should i keep trying or simply replace the gasket and wait for warmer weather. i had the thought that maybe i could put a floor jack under the frame and this might give me a little clearance with the front suspension lifted a bit.

only other consideration; i have the dreaded oil light and slight knock at idle when the engine is up to temp. i really wanted to clean the screen and replace the pump if i could to see if this would help, but don't want to mess with the motor mounts. i need a secret trick,

thanks in advance,

drew

is it possible to pull the pan?

 

if you cant wiggle it out, you have the undo the motor mounts and jack the block up just enough to get it out. Something myself is not looking forward to doing in the very near future.

 

2x on motor mounts, do not jack the engine up by the harmonic balancer, it cant support the weight.

 

Never get under a vehicle supported by only a floor jack.

The proper way to raise the engine is with a cherry picker. Most cost under $200 or can be rented.

You're basically asking how to get out of doing something the right way, which as a rule of thumb only serves to set yourself up for failure. I've done an oil pan before and I used my cherry picker to raise the engine, then I set the engine back down on pieces of 2x4 wedged in the motor mounts. It was a filthy process. If I ever need to do this again, I'll consider pulling the motor completely or at the very least power-washing the engine first.

As for the knock, put a mechanical gauge on it to see the actual pressure first. A new oil pump won't solve the problem (they rarely fail, as they're the most well-lubricated component in the engine). If the pressure is low enough, not even a high-volume pump will solve the problem. If that 351M has a lot of miles on it, then chances are it's knocking because the bearings are shot.

 

Sounds like you might as well take it out and replace or rebuild it if it's knocking with low oil psi. Throwing a oil pump in will not help it.

 

thanks for all the input guys. wasn't particularly trying to get out of doing the work, just mainly wanted to clean the pickup screen as a last ditch effort before yanking that thing out.

i've been suspecting the main bearing culprit, but why would the main bearings only knock/thump when the engine is up to temp (only starts after about 15 mins).

 

The engine oil warms up and gets thinner and you hear the knocking. Sounds like a rebuild in your future. If you get the pan off, you could replace the bearings to get by in an emergency, but I don't recommend it.

Doug

 

The only way to get the pan off in a 2WD is by jaking the engine, as said, remove the rad hoses, fan shroudand starter. You'll need about 4 inches to go tthe pan out or till the bell housing touches the bottom of the fire wall. As for the low oil pressure and knock, this is a very common fault with the 351M engines. You will not fix the oil pressure or knock with a new pump. You can replce the main and rod bearings with the motor in but for all the aggravation it is easier and faster to pull the motor, makes for a better job too. This will MOST times cure you're low oil pressure and knock troubles, I just did mine and it had no oil pressure at all and now it's got great pressure and it was done 8 months ago. Have Fun

 

Do it right,check the oil pressure with a good guage ,pull the engine,replace all the rod and main bearings.If the oil and pan are real dirty, so is the rest of the engine . Probably worn camshaft ,lifters,rockers ,ect. You may as well take care of all of the worn parts, then you won't have to pull it apart six weeks later and buy another set of gaskets plus all the work again.Been there done that .

 

thanks so much for the info; i'm kind of new to the ford game and picked up the truck for 1000 bucks. it's SO orange. will eventually be spare car for firewood and for when the land rover decides to act british.

found a cherry picker and engine stand for sale at a used tool store for $300; beginning to sound like a good investment.

thanks again.

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5058580742/" title="chief 004 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/5058580742_e5b8befbae.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="chief 004" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5058581524/" title="chief 001 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4091/5058581524_4cfdd78361.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="chief 001" /></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5057971649/" title="chief 006 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4105/5057971649_4e0491860b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="chief 006" /></a>

 

Forgot to say ,Welcome, sounds like a good buy on the engine stand and cherry picker. Keep checking back with questions, thats how you learn and there are a lot of teachers here. We don't allways agree , but thats normal.JIM P.S. good looking truck, has almost the same interior that is in my f-100.I just lately changed my red door panels to the brown like yours.

 

thank you jim. i have to say that the more time goes by the more this truck is becoming my favorite. i haven't driven "my car" in about a week, and i can see why the dentside has a bit of a cult following.

 

hi all,

been hard at work for a few days and finally got the tired 351 out of there...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5147999995/" title="chief 047 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1171/5147999995_5bb8a37583.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="chief 047" /></a>

must say that so far it seems SO worth it to have then engine on the stand to replace the rod and main bearings. hats off to those of you who have done this job from underneath. while i've got it out i will be throwing some new parts on it...water pump etc... but just wanted to ask those of you who've done this before

a. what is the best way to remove the main bearings that are under the crankshaft without pulling the crank out or jumping time? "under" as in not the half that comes with the cap when engine is upside down on a stand

b. what is the best thing to soak the new bearings in? i figure lightweight oil should do?

c. how do you prime a new oil pump?

d. what is the best way to generally prevent grime and debris from getting into your new bearings while installing them?

e. sorry for all the silly questions.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5148606438/" title="chief 051 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1380/5148606438_cbcf641ac4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="chief 051" /></a>

 

also; is it wise or unwise to use the old pickup screen? forgot to order one.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5148689888/" title="chief 063 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/5148689888_4f5c3e5473_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="chief 063" /></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5148691546/" title="chief 069 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/5148691546_ddf8cc98a1_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="chief 069" /></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5148693450/" title="chief 072 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/5148693450_c4c1e7b42e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="chief 072" /></a>