Heater Rheostat
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: East KY
Heater Rheostat
Well...it's getting cooler outside. So I thought I'd fix the crack in my heater core and put it back. I got that fixed and pressure tested it. But unfortunately, the heater rheostat was broken already and it pooped out last night. I was shocked when I found one identical to it on the net, but THEN realized that it apparently is for the darkside (chevy) trucks. Please advise. Is there a more "Ford specific" rheostat out there, or am I just wrong and this is a universal switch that was used by both "sides"? Obviously mine was done aftermarket (and it wasn't done very well at all). I'd like to fix this properly with the right switch if it's out there. Truck is still 6 volt positive ground. 49 F1
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
Likes: 3,126
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
That's the same one Mac's sells, so it must be an after market for both makes.
The original switch is mounted under the dash in a bracket. I've seen couple of different Ford designs, one with a position for two operators and one with four operators.
The original switch is mounted under the dash in a bracket. I've seen couple of different Ford designs, one with a position for two operators and one with four operators.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 5
From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
MId fifty sells one like the one im my 56, seems like a 2 position?
Heater Switch 12 Volt
Part Number: 2910
Price: $28.50EA
Qty:
https://midfifty.com/partpics/2910-10712.jpg
Heater Switch 12 Volt
Part Number: 2910
Price: $28.50EA
Qty:
https://midfifty.com/partpics/2910-10712.jpg
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,963
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From: East KY
Thanks guys. I'm wondering if my truck ever had that bracket in any size, because it appears that it never had a heater until this one was installed later. The heater in it now was obviously installed early in the truck's life, but it has no defrost ducts at all either on the unit or under the dash. I called Mac's and they told me they didn't have them. So I ended up finding it at American Classic Truck parts (which specializes in Chevy parts). The guy there said my rheostat was a generic one used by everybody way back when. Thanks pacrat for that other option. Only potential problem is my truck is a 6 volt. But it would probably work fine as a switch.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
Likes: 3,126
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Packrat,
I don't think the one you listed will work, he's running a 6 volt system. 12 volt draws half the current.
The one Mac's has is listed for a '48-50 truck, #8C-18578-A, $33.
I don't think the one you listed will work, he's running a 6 volt system. 12 volt draws half the current.
The one Mac's has is listed for a '48-50 truck, #8C-18578-A, $33.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,963
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From: East KY
Thanks Bob. By the way, you could probably get a job at Mac's if you ever wanted it. I spent about 20 minutes on the phone with them earlier, including showing their technician the picture, and he finally told me they didn't have it. So I ended up buying the exact same thing from this other place for abou 14 bucks less. Stuff like that just makes me shake my head. 
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
Likes: 3,126
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I agree, I find it amazing in this current economy how bad customer service can be. I own my own small business and I run into unknowing, rude customer service not that often but I still do run into it, especially when dealing with a government agency. I guess they figure they're jobs are secure so they don't have to be helpful. I don't take it from any government employee, I remind them that they are my employee and they better act like it.
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Fleet Mechanic
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: East KY
I'll say this and shut up. Because we all know how bad things have gotten. The old standby "Ma and Pa" type operations are quickly dying. But if I have to go to a chain store, my new favorite is Advance. NOT because they suddenly got better. Rather because they now have their parts inventory on their web site. So I look the part up and get the number and all the information before I go. Then I print it off and walk straight in the store and ask them to grab it off the shelf. The other day, I literally had to show a young kid at O'Reillys how to use the paper books because his computer "didn't go back that far".
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 5
From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Ill take that advice and try them.. I try for a place with an old-fart like me behind the counter if I can find one.. Last time I went to a "chain" place the kid behind the counter asked me how may plugs my 302 needed.. Oh well, we were all young once!
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
E-bay has some too:
HEATER SWITCH 33 34 36 37 38 39 40 46 48 49 CHEVY FORD : eBay Motors (item 120629604619 end time Oct-10-10 17:13:02 PDT)
Some more:
52 ford heater switch items - Get great deals on Parts Accessories items on eBay Motors!
33 42 54 chevrolet ford new heater blower switch 6vt : eBay Motors (item 290443821660 end time Oct-08-10 06:19:56 PDT)
Last one is the same as yours - $16.
HEATER SWITCH 33 34 36 37 38 39 40 46 48 49 CHEVY FORD : eBay Motors (item 120629604619 end time Oct-10-10 17:13:02 PDT)
Some more:
52 ford heater switch items - Get great deals on Parts Accessories items on eBay Motors!
33 42 54 chevrolet ford new heater blower switch 6vt : eBay Motors (item 290443821660 end time Oct-08-10 06:19:56 PDT)
Last one is the same as yours - $16.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,963
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From: East KY
Thanks to all of you for your help. Some of you should be detectives. You're quite good in finding these oddball parts. A lot better than me! The next small challenge is getting new wiring on this blower motor while I wait on the shipment. These cloth covered wires are just dry rotted to death. I took the motor cover off and discovered that the wires continue right into the body of the motor and don't have a junction. So now I have to make some sort of tight splice if possible inside the housing, just tape it up from one end to the other, or have the thing rebuilt. If there's one thing that I have learned about these trucks, there were MANY different aftermarket heaters out there.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: southern MN
I just did this exercize not long ago, and had round 2 with the switch today.
my original switch was still in place on the bracket, but had been replaced by the aftermarket one y'all are showing. I took the OEM original and opened it up. I had to clean and resolder all the contacts on the outside as they'd corroded enough to not make contact, including each end of the resister coil hanging off the back. just kept filing, cleaning, and soldering until i got continuity from the wire connectors to the copper contacts inside. Be carefull with the heavy paper it's assembled with. My switch got picky enough i had to use zip strips to hold it assembled because the metal tabs didnt hold it closed anymore.
My heater blower motor was a gunked up and the insulation on the wires cracked back into the motor housing. I took the motor apart, cleaned, and then slid 4" lengths of shrink tube over the old wire insulation inside the motor casing. oddly enough, the insulation was still in workable shape a couple inches outside the motor housing to the connectors. The PIA was getting the wires with the shrink tube over them packed into the motor case and out the small hole in the motor case when reassembling it. The squirrel cage is a little noisy inside the heater box but it works.
total cost for both repairs was maybe $5, and about 4 hours. The aftermarket heater switch graces the shelf edge of my work bench as a decoration if anyone really wants it. no idea if it actually works tho, didnt even bother to test it as I really wanted the Factory OEM switch.
Oh, FYI : beware the resister coil hanging off the back of the OEM switch. It get downright TOASTY after the fan's been run on low for a minute or 2.
my original switch was still in place on the bracket, but had been replaced by the aftermarket one y'all are showing. I took the OEM original and opened it up. I had to clean and resolder all the contacts on the outside as they'd corroded enough to not make contact, including each end of the resister coil hanging off the back. just kept filing, cleaning, and soldering until i got continuity from the wire connectors to the copper contacts inside. Be carefull with the heavy paper it's assembled with. My switch got picky enough i had to use zip strips to hold it assembled because the metal tabs didnt hold it closed anymore.
My heater blower motor was a gunked up and the insulation on the wires cracked back into the motor housing. I took the motor apart, cleaned, and then slid 4" lengths of shrink tube over the old wire insulation inside the motor casing. oddly enough, the insulation was still in workable shape a couple inches outside the motor housing to the connectors. The PIA was getting the wires with the shrink tube over them packed into the motor case and out the small hole in the motor case when reassembling it. The squirrel cage is a little noisy inside the heater box but it works.
total cost for both repairs was maybe $5, and about 4 hours. The aftermarket heater switch graces the shelf edge of my work bench as a decoration if anyone really wants it. no idea if it actually works tho, didnt even bother to test it as I really wanted the Factory OEM switch.
Oh, FYI : beware the resister coil hanging off the back of the OEM switch. It get downright TOASTY after the fan's been run on low for a minute or 2.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Dumbluck that is the kind of repairs I like to do and is why I enjoy the hobby so Damn much. To take something like a heater motor or vacuum wiper motor apart and repair it with what ever is around the shop. Cool