sputtering problem Fe 390
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sputtering problem Fe 390
I have a 68 390 2 barrell factory engine. it sat for 3 years but was rebuilt prior to the 3 years. I got the engine running put new wires , plugs , cap , rotor and points all set at recomended specs. i also rebuilt the autolite 2100 2 barrell carb. my problem is 1st was burning to rich leaving a black spot beneath the exhaust pipe well i adjusted the idle/air screws as specified and seem to have fixed that but reving the engine or taking off it has a sputter/miss more of a sputter. you can stomp down on it and it will sputter all the way till its wide open and still sputters and the engine seems so weak i know its just a two barrell but i also know it should have more power than that 0 to 60 in about 10 minutes. iv went over everything from the plugs up all the vacuums are good iv advanced and retard the timing. iv done all i can think of but taking the carb back a part to look at it but wouldnt know what to look for. the acc pump is pumping the rebuild was easy on this carb and i cleaned the wizz out of it. any tips or info would be appreciated. i almost for got it smokes like a grayish smoke at idle but none of the plugs are oily.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
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From: Cupertino
After three years, the gasoline has certainly gone bad. Did you drain the tank and clear the fuel lines? If not, you will have to do it, replace fuel filter and probably tear the carb down again to clean it out.
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Yes i did all that and i forgot to mention the choke works good to it still does it when its fully open. iv probly ran a couple of tanks through it high test along with gas treatments. could a float be causing this. it starts right up and i can drive it anywhere it just has a sputter to it and is weak when you hit the passing gear you can almost feel something holding it back.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 796
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From: Anderson Northern Ca
Rough Runner
south418,I recently rebuilt my 2100 and found some problems with my previous carb build.First problem was I never snapped the float bowl rod retainer down over the valve seat nut for my previous build,it has a groove just for that purpose.If you do not do this your carb will run rich and never tune right.Second thing was I did not inspect the carb spacer plate, it had burned out at the back left side and caused a vaccume leak.After a rebuild and a replacment spacer it works great. Hope you get yours working.
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Nick Greer
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Sep 17, 2012 05:38 PM
Spank
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
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Apr 5, 2004 11:23 PM
2100, 390, accelerator, autolite, expedition, fe, fine, ford, hit, idles, problemsd, sputtering, sputters, started, truck
