2008 Expedition DS Window
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Canada
We had the same "slow window" problem on our '08. The drivers was worse. In our cold winter weather they wouldn't work and in summer were fine. It gradually got worse until the drivers quit. (Stupid me for not fixing it at first symptom!) Cable actually broke in drivers door. I got new regulator and intend to put it in and lube everything well but had an injury and haven't got it done. Not using windows at present. Should try to find the above-mentioned post with instructions I suppose. It didn't look like a fun job when I looked behind the panel.
Pilgrim
Pilgrim
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 93
From: VA/NH
I was having the slow window problem also. I took the panel off, taped the window so it would stay up & removed the regulator. I noticed what looked like a little rust on the cable shield ends. I used some synthetic bike chain lube on the cable and now the window works like new again. I'm sure Marvel Mystery Oil or what ever other kinds of lube you have would work also.
It takes a little time, but if you're at all mechanically inclined it's not a bad job.
It takes a little time, but if you're at all mechanically inclined it's not a bad job.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,157
Likes: 3
The binding is mainly from the guides that the plastic feet go up and down but this is a good to know also. You can do it without taking the regulator out if you remove the panel and the felt part that sits on top of the door frame. You can then look down as the window is working and see what needs to be lubed.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 93
From: VA/NH
I didn't want to have to pull it apart twice and a few of the spots I wanted to lube weren't easily accessible without pulling the regulator out. It also gave me a chance to align everything in case the window slipped in the clamps causing it to go up and down cockeyed.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Jersey - Exit 165
Old thread but I just ran into this problem and have a cheap solution.....
I started with the usual, Petroleum along the rubber track and that didn't work. I then pulled the door panel off and greased the metal track, that didn't help either.
I found that the cable runs through a rubber sleeve and this was the culprit. I had my wife run the window up and down with the panel out of the way while I sprayed a lubricant (similar to WD-40 but has teflon in it) into the cable. As the window was ran up and down the lubricant was spread throughout the cable.
The window runs at normal speed now and the motor stays cool. The reason these motors are burning up is the cable hanging up in the sleeve it runs through. An hour of your time and some lubricant will save you the $120 the motor costs!!
I started with the usual, Petroleum along the rubber track and that didn't work. I then pulled the door panel off and greased the metal track, that didn't help either.
I found that the cable runs through a rubber sleeve and this was the culprit. I had my wife run the window up and down with the panel out of the way while I sprayed a lubricant (similar to WD-40 but has teflon in it) into the cable. As the window was ran up and down the lubricant was spread throughout the cable.
The window runs at normal speed now and the motor stays cool. The reason these motors are burning up is the cable hanging up in the sleeve it runs through. An hour of your time and some lubricant will save you the $120 the motor costs!!
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Plymouth, WI
Word of advice... if your window is really slow and squealing, don't ignore it. I did and my P/S cable snapped. Had to change the whole assembly ($170). Motor isn't the problem. Cable is binding in the outer sleeve.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Canada
.... and the driver's side is even more expensive! Be thankful it was passenger side first!
Pilgrim
Pilgrim
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
From: Odessa
i ignored my slow drivers side window until it finally stopped working. it got stuck halfway. had to take the doorpanel off. I notices that one of the cables had actually unthreaded itself. Im not using the window at the moment. is there a way to replace the cable or do i have to replace the whole housing?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Canada
I think the cables are part of the assembly and not available separately. Maybe someone else will clarify, or call your local parts counter. On mine, even the motor got replaced even though it was working fine. Just one big assembly.
Pilgrim
Pilgrim
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
whateg01
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
16
Sep 14, 2010 10:16 PM
shotgunner426
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
Oct 3, 2003 04:06 PM
