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i sure will and thanks for all the advise, and the wish of luck because im going to need all i can get. im new at working on vehicles and i thought that buying an old truck would be fun and a good hobby but im learning alot as i go. ill keep yall updated on how things go.
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i sure will and thanks for all the advise, and the wish of luck because im going to need all i can get. im new at working on vehicles and i thought that buying an old truck would be fun and a good hobby but im learning alot as i go. ill keep yall updated on how things go.
And don't be afraid to post up any problems that may occurr, there are many here more than willing to walk you thru the process.
Josh
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if i end up having to replace the ignition switch is there anything that i should know before i do that or is it pritty stright forward and easy? i bought the switch today after explaining the problems that i was having and they also said that they thought that it would be that switch sticking or going bad.
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if i end up having to replace the ignition switch is there anything that i should know before i do that or is it pritty stright forward and easy? i bought the switch today after explaining the problems that i was having and they also said that they thought that it would be that switch sticking or going bad.
The entire switch is just a matter of unscrewing the collar and disconnecting the harness.
The barrel, you take your key and turn it to ACC and then insert a paper clip into the hole and pull it out.
Josh
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so to change out just the switch i unscrew the ring around the ignition key hole and that will release the switch so i can get the harness off and put in the new one, just wanting to make sure i understand what you saying correctly. also how do you know if you have to replace the core? one of the things that it was doing even with the truck off and the key out was it kept trying to turn over. would that just be the switch sticking or going bad? the person at auto zone said that it might be the switch sticking what are your thoughts?
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Could be bad contacts hanging up or "arcing" across the terminals.
Beyond actually tracing the wires from the switch to the solenoid, most would try swapping the ignition to see if the symptoms go away.
I would also try the new switch with the old tumbler, that way you can keep your old key.
But, yes, the outer ring is all that holds the switch onto the dash.
Josh
Beyond actually tracing the wires from the switch to the solenoid, most would try swapping the ignition to see if the symptoms go away.
I would also try the new switch with the old tumbler, that way you can keep your old key.
But, yes, the outer ring is all that holds the switch onto the dash.
Josh
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ok thanks. i hope that replacing the switch fixes it i really dont want to mess with replacing the whole thing. as far as the solenoid goes there are 2 wires and the end that has the wire connecting to the starter and the end thats connecting to the battery has 3 wire total. and then the one wire connecting to the "S" post in the front. does that sound right? but if it is bad wires that wouldnt surprise me. there are several old wires and things that dont work so i dont know if the the wiring a fuse or both. there are also wires that lead no where under the hood from where previous owners have removed things our tried to add things either way i plan on redoing all the wiring and puting a new fuse box in around feb. 2011.
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There should be at least 4 in simple terms...
The + from the battery
Cable on opposite lug to starter
A red/blue on the "S" post
A brown on the "I" post.
There will be more on the + lug from the battery, i.e. alternator and main power wire, but those 4 spelled out above are the start circuits. The one that hasn't been talked about yet is the "I" wire. That post supplies full battery voltage to the coil during cranking. Also acts as a start "retard" with Duraspark.
Josh
The + from the battery
Cable on opposite lug to starter
A red/blue on the "S" post
A brown on the "I" post.
There will be more on the + lug from the battery, i.e. alternator and main power wire, but those 4 spelled out above are the start circuits. The one that hasn't been talked about yet is the "I" wire. That post supplies full battery voltage to the coil during cranking. Also acts as a start "retard" with Duraspark.
Josh
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Got it all put back togather and the only problem that i've had is that two times its kept trying to crank. When I loosen the postive side of the solenoid it stops. I have also tried removing the s post wire and that didnt do anything. The ignition switch, solenoid and starter have all been replaced within the last 2 weeks. So other than this minor issue everything is working good. Anyone have any ideas as to why it would keep trying to crank?
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