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I'm blowing alot of white smoke and have new return line kit and brand new head gaskets, power of deduction is I need a new set of injectors right? It starts fine but lacks power it can barley make it up a small hill. But what scares me is that I lost about a gallon of coolant when I reinstalled the motor and the exhaust feels moist, could the block itself take that much coolant or did I mess up on the headgaskets?
I have the 7.3 and all I did to it was change the headgaskets, I bought the engine with "blown head gaskets" and swapped it out for the new one. Not sure what else I can say that would help
can you pressurize the radiator and then check for leaks ? you may have a crack in the block or it could be that one of the cylinders is eating up and have a hole in the wall from cavitation . was the injector pump removed ? if so double check its timing with the cam gear
First off, Whats the white smoke smell like, Fuel or Sweet like coolant ???
To properly pressure test the cylinders you would pull the rockers, pull the glow plugs, apply shop air to the glow plug holes ...
If you're looking for it to be leaking into the water jackets, ensure the radiator is full, you'll know if it's leaking into the water jackets ... It'll bubble or push out water!
WARNING! When applying air pressure to a cylinder, the motor will turn over until the cylinder is at BDC, ensure it's out of gear and everything is clear!
A compression test will tell you little in this case.
If you pressurize the radiator, fill a cylinder with water, then try to start it, you'll wish you hadn't! Pull the Glow Plugs first and turn the motor over to blow any possible water out.
Likely yes on the water in oil.
Likely yes on water in the cylinder and hydrolocking. (I know, you didn't ask ... )
Smoke only smells like Diesel.
Sounds more like the timing is off then coolant being burnt!
Did you pull the IP??
As for pressurizing the cylinders, you can either buy the adapter or make one, personally I would take an old Glow Plug, blow the center out, braze a 1/8" pipe nipple about 4" long to it then you can add a gauge, valve, regulator, air fitting if you choose to get fancy or just an air fitting if not.
I pulled the little circular cover unbolted it and pulled it off and put it back on. Never removed the actual gear that it bolts to, but I installed the engine with injection pump off could that have moved the gear around and move a tooth or something?
Pulling the IP drive cover off is a sure way to get it a tooth or more off!
Now for the hard part, finding the timing mark on the cam!
Many have had to pull the whole front end off their motors to do so, some have had success with tricks.
Someone will be along shortly with links to tricks to try.
Benbe- Just to be clear did you remove the round cover on front of the timing gear cover or the cover itself? My take is that you removed the round cover on the front of the timing gear. If so that is the correct way to take the pump off. I'm not sure if the gear could move installing the motor with the pump off if the main cover was still on, I would guess not.