Hey guys. I'm about to start a bodywork project on my 86 F-150 shortbed I'm looking for some advice. I've got rust where everyone with an 80-86 pickup has rust; above and behind all the wheels. The rest of the truck is completely rust-free.
I recently removed the bed as part of an unrelated repair and decided that while it's off, it would be a good time to prep it for paint. After doing a close inspection, both bedsides are eaten up with rust on the inside. I've thought about my options. Sure, I could just cut out the heavily rusted areas and replace them with patch panels, but I'll just be delaying the inevitable. Or, I could go to the junk yard and find some less rusted panels and end up with the same problem 5 years from now. So, I've decide to replace the entire bedside on both sides of the truck. This brings me to my problem...
1st question: LMC only sells bedsides for longbeds. My truck is a shortbed. Can I buy the longbed bedside and cut it down to fit my truck? And, if so, does anyone know how I can "bend" the metal so that it will wrap around the front of the bed after I've made the cut? I've got a good selection of tools, but I don't have any heavy-duty metal fabrication equipment (I've got a big compressor with air tools, a MIG welder, and a plasma cutter just to give you an idea of the big-ticket items I've got).
2nd question: Has anyone used the reproduction body panels on the market today? Did they fit well or require a lot of modification? Did you weld them in or use body sealant?
3rd question: How do I get the old bedside off? It looks like they might be spot welded. Should I just grind down the spots and drill them out? I want to avoid damaging the rest of the bed if possible.

I know that's a lot of questions. Sorry bout that. Thanks in advance for your help!

 

They make a special bit to drill spot welds out. I believe the Eastwood company sells them among others.

Are you positive the distance from the wheelwell to the taillight area is the same on a shortbed as it is on a longbed? It may be, but I am not sure myself.

I would also look at the "U" shaped piece that goes across the rear of the bed from taillight to taillight, and the little box formed under the taillights. All this was rotted on a bed I had, and that made it not worth saving, since that's where all the strength is in the rear bedsides when you let the tailgate down, and it holds the hinge pivots for the tailgate also.

As far as bending the front lip around if it all worked out, that should be easy enough by cutting 2x4's in short lengths, and clamping the metal with c-clamps and the 2x4's, and then hammering the metal into a 90. It's pretty thin stuff.

 

Thanks Franklin. I'm not positive about the distance from the wheel to the tailgate. They look the same to the eye, but I need to find out for sure prior to spending over $500 on the new bedsides.

The rest of the bed is amazingly rust-free. I live in southern Virginia and they don't salt the roads down here. The truck was built in Norfolk, and I think it's been in the area most of it's life. The only spots that have rusted thru are where there is an inner structure butted up against the outer skin. I think dirt and water just collect there and make it a rust paradise.
The tip you mentioned about the 2x4's sounds great. I think I can handle that! Thanks again.

Does anyone have any reviews (good or bad) of these aftermarket panels?

 

I have a shortbed and I think you are correct in assuming the beds are the same from the wheel back. The additional sheet metal is forward of the rear wheels. I'm basing this assumption off the recent frame work I'm doing which shows the bends and shapes of the frame being identical from the wheels on back for shortbeds and longbeds. That said, if the frame are the same I see no reason how or why the bodies would/could be different.