Just wondering how hard it is to rebuild a card. I've never done it before and thinking about doing it for the carb on my 360FE.

If i do rebuild it myself is there a recommended kit to get or are they all the same? Thanks guys.

-j.banks-

 

While the "hardcore" mechanics will probably disagree, I find the price of rebuit carbs relatively cheap versus the cost of the kits and time spent rebuilding one.

Just be sure when you are exchanging your old carb for the rebuilt one that you examine the differences in what you have versus what you are getting. Little things like the air cleaner bolt and linkage parts should be taken off your old carb before you trade it in.

 

As the parts manager for an auto parts store, I refuse to stock or sell remanufactured carburetors. I have dealt with several different brands over the years and the rule of thumb from my experience is that you have to go through three of them to get a good one. The biggest problem that I have seen is that the floats are never set correctly and the carburetor either floods or doesn't get enough gas. When one of my wholesale customers needs a carburetor rebuilt, I send it out to a reputable local rebuilder to get it done. That way I know the carburetor is the correct one (because it is the customers original), and if there is a problem with it (which is rare) i can go right back to the man who rebuilt it.

The first carburetor I ever rebuilt myself was a 2100/2150 Autolite/Motorcraft 2bbl -- this is the simplest carburetor ever made. Just follow the directions that come with the kit (be sure to get both and overhaul kit and a float!!!) and just make sure everything is clean clean clean. And follow your float settings to the tee.

Now if you have a Holley 4bbl or something like that, and you've never rebuilt a carb, now is probably not the time to try.

If you happen to have a Ford Variable Venturii carb -- if feel sorry for you!!! Best way to rebuild that sucker is chuck it in the trash and replace it with something that won't send you to the funny farm.

chris seay
bealeton va
49 F1s
68 F100

 

Good post Chris. Thanks for sharing your "firsthand" experience.

I hava a two-barrell on my '72 F250 390 that needs rebuilding. I think I will take it to a local shop rather than NAPA.

 

If you have a digital camera, take some shots as you disassemble the carb. I rebuilt a few years ago and each came with some pretty detailed directions. My son and I just did two a couple of months ago (67 and a 73) and neither kit came with directions, just an exploded view of the carb. It's fun to do your own.

If you get over your head you can pick up a rebuilt carb from AutoZone for about $150 (2bbl). I got lucky when I bought one awhile back (Holley rebuilt) and it works fine but according to Chris's post, I am an exception. I have also read a lot of posts in the group wherein the poster had to exchange the new rebuilt carg at least once before getting one that worked properly.

Good luck.
jor

 

jor: I tend to agree with chris, I've experienced the same thing. 2 or 3 carbs to get a good one is a pain, especially if it's your only vehicle!

jdbanks: Just make sure you have your tag handy, and don't lose it. If it's already gone, you can still get the right kit, but it means more searching for the parts man, something that may or may not cause headaches. All depends on the parts guys experience

Good luck whatever you do, the autolite/motorcraft carbs are simple, easy to set/adjust, etc.

 

The 2100/2150 is about the most simple carb ever made. I have rebuilt these for 30 years. About the only thing that can wear out is the throttle shaft bores and they can have bushings installed. Once you have done one, you can do the next one in an hour or less.

 

I just rebuilt the 2100 on my 360. cseay1 is right. They are the simplest carb to rebuild. I went to my local parts store and told them make, model, and engine. The kit they got for me worked just fine and the exploded drawing of the carb showed where each part goes back. They even number them in sequence so you can take it apart and put it back together in numerical order. Kinda like paint by number. Also make sure it is clean, especially down in the small passages. Or remove it and take it to your local trusted mechanic.

 

If your carb is missing the original tag, you can find the part number stamped into the bottom flange on the front left corner.
ie:D1TE AMA or something like that. Make sure your throttle shafts don't don't have too much play. You can either soak it in a carb cleaner or spray it out good with an aerosol carb cleaner.

mike

 

A carb rebuild is generally well within the realm of most home mechanics. Study the expolded diagram and instructions (most decent kits come with instructions) before you take anything apart. Clean everything twice as good as you think it needs to be. Do not force anything apart or together. Check your assembly against the diagram twice after every couple of steps. Pay real close attention to setting the float level and choke pulloff.

One other thing, if you are dealing with a Holley, get a kit made by Holley. Some of the generic kits for them don't work very well.