FAQ's & Forum Information, -PLEASE READ!
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About this Forum, -PLEASE READ!
Welcome to FTE!
Just a little reminder that this forum is different than most others. It is a "Bank Vault" full of good ideas to "draw" from and of course, "deposit" some of your own
Think of it as a library of ideas and tips instead of just a Q&A forum.
Please browse thru the topics and if you remember how you solved a particular problem and it is not posted here already, -make a "deposit" and post it! If it is posted already let us know how the technique worked!
There are almost always more ways than one to solve a problem. Maybe you have tried some of the methods discussed here, so please let us know the results you had!
This is one forum where we ENCOURAGE people to post to old topics to add their ideas!
Also- Post your garage technique or equipment questions in this forum. Someone may know the answer!
Remember to check the ARCHIVES there is a lot of good information there. Some of the first threads covered great subjects full of good safety information. Click on the link an check them out.
Do NOT post Truck Tech questions here! There are many forums below this one to post tech questions in. Forums are divided into engine, system, model, and year, etc. Have a "look see" thru all of the forums b4 you post.
If you see a truck tech question please do NOT respond to it until it is moved to the proper forum by the moderator etc. Use the "report post" function to report it to a moderator. Your cooperation will be appreciated.
When posting to the truck tech forums make your post in the most specific forum you can. Example: If you have a differential question with your 76 F series, post it in the Differential forum not the 73-79 forum. The specific forums are where all the experts hang. If your question is too model specific the moderators in those forums will move your post to the proper forum.
When posting pictures in any FTE forum, please post links only! Your cooperation will be appreciated.
The moderators are here to help. If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us.
Happy Reading!
Have fun and Welcome to FTE!
-Your FTE Moderator-
Please Note:
-----------------------------
Use the "Support" link under the "Misc" menu for FTE system questions and problems. Do not post in the forums. Your cooperation will be appreciated. FTE Support
FTE Forum Guidelines
Just a little reminder that this forum is different than most others. It is a "Bank Vault" full of good ideas to "draw" from and of course, "deposit" some of your own
Think of it as a library of ideas and tips instead of just a Q&A forum.Please browse thru the topics and if you remember how you solved a particular problem and it is not posted here already, -make a "deposit" and post it! If it is posted already let us know how the technique worked!
There are almost always more ways than one to solve a problem. Maybe you have tried some of the methods discussed here, so please let us know the results you had!
This is one forum where we ENCOURAGE people to post to old topics to add their ideas!
Also- Post your garage technique or equipment questions in this forum. Someone may know the answer!
Remember to check the ARCHIVES there is a lot of good information there. Some of the first threads covered great subjects full of good safety information. Click on the link an check them out.
Do NOT post Truck Tech questions here! There are many forums below this one to post tech questions in. Forums are divided into engine, system, model, and year, etc. Have a "look see" thru all of the forums b4 you post.
If you see a truck tech question please do NOT respond to it until it is moved to the proper forum by the moderator etc. Use the "report post" function to report it to a moderator. Your cooperation will be appreciated.
When posting to the truck tech forums make your post in the most specific forum you can. Example: If you have a differential question with your 76 F series, post it in the Differential forum not the 73-79 forum. The specific forums are where all the experts hang. If your question is too model specific the moderators in those forums will move your post to the proper forum.
When posting pictures in any FTE forum, please post links only! Your cooperation will be appreciated.
The moderators are here to help. If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us.
Happy Reading!
Have fun and Welcome to FTE!
-Your FTE Moderator-
Please Note:
-----------------------------
Use the "Support" link under the "Misc" menu for FTE system questions and problems. Do not post in the forums. Your cooperation will be appreciated. FTE Support
FTE Forum Guidelines
Last edited by Torque1st; Apr 11, 2006 at 04:04 PM.
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FAQ == Frequently Asked Questions.
The following posts have the links or answers to frequently asked questions.
If you have a link you would like to submit as a particularly good explanation etc let me or the moderator know by email. Please include a link to the thread. You can also use the "report this post function" if you can't figure out how to send a link, with a note to the moderator about why you thought this was a good explanation. All tips are helpful.
We prefer links to information posted on FTE since it won't "vaporize" on us but all links are good.
-Thanks!
If you have a link you would like to submit as a particularly good explanation etc let me or the moderator know by email. Please include a link to the thread. You can also use the "report this post function" if you can't figure out how to send a link, with a note to the moderator about why you thought this was a good explanation. All tips are helpful.
We prefer links to information posted on FTE since it won't "vaporize" on us but all links are good.
-Thanks!
Last edited by Torque1st; Oct 19, 2005 at 11:58 PM.
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PVC pipe must not be used for air lines!
PVC pipe is not rated for carrying compressed gas of any type.
PVC is rated for liquids under pressure only. There is a BIG difference here!
The PVC material is the problem. PVC shatters under impact loads. When PVC is stressed by internal gas pressure and it is deformed in any way, by an object striking it, or any bending force PVC shatters and literally EXPLODES! With gas pressure behind it sharp pieces can be thrown great distances just like a fragmentation grenade had gone off. It can and will kill! DO NOT take a chance on this in your shop. Think of the other people that frequent your shop even if you do not care about yourself.
PVC is not allowed under OSHA regulations. The PVC manufacturers will ALL tell you that it is not rated for, nor should it be used for gases under pressure.
There is a type of ABS that is rated for gas pressure but it is extremely difficult to find.
-Updated- A source for this ABS material is: "Chem-aire" by Nibco Chemtrol USA 1-800-343-5455 rated at 185 lbs.@110 temp, it is ABS, and made just for air lines! It is High $$$ tho.
People use iron pipe and certain grades of copper for air lines. Even the thin copper found at the Home Box stores is suitable for running compressed air according to the pressure tables but it is not allowed by many building codes. Iron pipe (black or galvanized) or grade "L" copper is required by many codes. Copper is prohibited under some codes for fire reasons.
Here are some links to threads here for more information:
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...threadid=98203
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=172008
You do not have to be able to thread iron pipe to use it. Plan your layout on paper then buy the closest pipe lengths to fit your layout along with a large assortment of short lengths of threaded pipe and some couplings. After you have finished your project return the unused fittings to the store. Remember to use liquid pipe dope not Teflon tape on your threads.
Copper tube ratings:
http://64.90.169.191/applications/pl...cth_table4.htm
Other products:
There are other thread-less and solder less products for piping shop air supplies but they are very high $$$ and may be hard to find parts to expand or change them in the future. If you can't solder or work with threaded pipe the cost may be worth it.
There are also some great topics on how to plumb your shop for air here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...&threadid=4656
-some of them are in the old DC forums, I will post them here later-
This is the OSHA position on PVC or thermoplastic pipe for compressed air:
==================================
It is our position that PVC pipe shall not be used as a means of transporting compressed air. This position follows the manufacturer's own statements that PVC is unsuitable for compressed air systems. We do allow the use of certain ABS materials that are specifically designed for compressed air systems. One such product is "Duraplus" air line piping system ABS pipe. However, as in any such system, the manufacturer's specifications on acceptable pressure and temperature considerations must be followed.
In closing, misapplication of a product, such as using PVC for compressed air systems, may result in citations and penalties being issued dependent upon the specific conditions.
From: http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html
==================================
More reading:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/airpiping.shtml
or-
<A HREF="http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/airpiping.shtml">Chris DeLucchi's article</A>
PVC is rated for liquids under pressure only. There is a BIG difference here!
The PVC material is the problem. PVC shatters under impact loads. When PVC is stressed by internal gas pressure and it is deformed in any way, by an object striking it, or any bending force PVC shatters and literally EXPLODES! With gas pressure behind it sharp pieces can be thrown great distances just like a fragmentation grenade had gone off. It can and will kill! DO NOT take a chance on this in your shop. Think of the other people that frequent your shop even if you do not care about yourself.
PVC is not allowed under OSHA regulations. The PVC manufacturers will ALL tell you that it is not rated for, nor should it be used for gases under pressure.
There is a type of ABS that is rated for gas pressure but it is extremely difficult to find.
-Updated- A source for this ABS material is: "Chem-aire" by Nibco Chemtrol USA 1-800-343-5455 rated at 185 lbs.@110 temp, it is ABS, and made just for air lines! It is High $$$ tho.
People use iron pipe and certain grades of copper for air lines. Even the thin copper found at the Home Box stores is suitable for running compressed air according to the pressure tables but it is not allowed by many building codes. Iron pipe (black or galvanized) or grade "L" copper is required by many codes. Copper is prohibited under some codes for fire reasons.
Here are some links to threads here for more information:
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...threadid=98203
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=172008
You do not have to be able to thread iron pipe to use it. Plan your layout on paper then buy the closest pipe lengths to fit your layout along with a large assortment of short lengths of threaded pipe and some couplings. After you have finished your project return the unused fittings to the store. Remember to use liquid pipe dope not Teflon tape on your threads.
Copper tube ratings:
http://64.90.169.191/applications/pl...cth_table4.htm
Other products:
There are other thread-less and solder less products for piping shop air supplies but they are very high $$$ and may be hard to find parts to expand or change them in the future. If you can't solder or work with threaded pipe the cost may be worth it.
There are also some great topics on how to plumb your shop for air here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...&threadid=4656
-some of them are in the old DC forums, I will post them here later-
This is the OSHA position on PVC or thermoplastic pipe for compressed air:
==================================
It is our position that PVC pipe shall not be used as a means of transporting compressed air. This position follows the manufacturer's own statements that PVC is unsuitable for compressed air systems. We do allow the use of certain ABS materials that are specifically designed for compressed air systems. One such product is "Duraplus" air line piping system ABS pipe. However, as in any such system, the manufacturer's specifications on acceptable pressure and temperature considerations must be followed.
In closing, misapplication of a product, such as using PVC for compressed air systems, may result in citations and penalties being issued dependent upon the specific conditions.
From: http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html
==================================
More reading:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/airpiping.shtml
or-
<A HREF="http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/airpiping.shtml">Chris DeLucchi's article</A>
Last edited by Torque1st; Jan 2, 2007 at 03:04 AM.
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Do Not Use CPVC With Compressed Gas!
The information I have found on the web so far seems to say:
DO NOT USE CPVC WITH COMPRESSED GAS!
Here are a few links:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/cpvc.html#faq
http://www.pep-plastic.com/manufactu...2119910-00.pdf
See page two which lists:
"NOT FOR USE WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR GASES
Spears Manufacturing Company DOES NOT RECOMMEND the use of thermoplastic piping products for systems to transport or store compressed air or gases"... +more
Here is another manufacturer that states never use it for compressed gas right on the cover of their manual: http://www.cepex.com/pdfs/CEPEXVLS.pdf
All of this info came up on Google with a search term of: cpvc compressed
DO NOT USE CPVC WITH COMPRESSED GAS!
Here are a few links:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/cpvc.html#faq
http://www.pep-plastic.com/manufactu...2119910-00.pdf
See page two which lists:
"NOT FOR USE WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR GASES
Spears Manufacturing Company DOES NOT RECOMMEND the use of thermoplastic piping products for systems to transport or store compressed air or gases"... +more
Here is another manufacturer that states never use it for compressed gas right on the cover of their manual: http://www.cepex.com/pdfs/CEPEXVLS.pdf
All of this info came up on Google with a search term of: cpvc compressed
Last edited by Torque1st; Oct 20, 2005 at 12:39 AM.
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To Loosen a Nut or Bolt...
The CANDLE TRICK!
This tip was posted by Hammerman3406 in another topic. It is a great idea and it WORKS!
This works with stuck rusted in shafts and pulleys etc also.
Re-Posted by Torque1st, with permission.
This tip was posted by Hammerman3406 in another topic. It is a great idea and it WORKS!
The easiest and slickest way to deal with rusted-in bolts, regardless of where they are is as follows;
1. find a candle....yes, an ordinary candle from the kitchen drawer
2. get a torch. acetylene or mapp work best, but propane will do
3. heat the metal AROUND the offending bolt as hot as is practical.
4. feed the candle into the threads until the wax quits melting
5. repeat 3&4 a couple of times
6. use an easy out or a pair of pliers (if a stub is left...)
Quit cussing these situations and start acting like a hero because you know this trick. most of the time, the bolts will come out with finger effort! this uses the same principle as sweating copper fittings, and will clean and lubricate the threads to the point that removal is too easy. -good luck.
1. find a candle....yes, an ordinary candle from the kitchen drawer
2. get a torch. acetylene or mapp work best, but propane will do
3. heat the metal AROUND the offending bolt as hot as is practical.
4. feed the candle into the threads until the wax quits melting
5. repeat 3&4 a couple of times
6. use an easy out or a pair of pliers (if a stub is left...)
Quit cussing these situations and start acting like a hero because you know this trick. most of the time, the bolts will come out with finger effort! this uses the same principle as sweating copper fittings, and will clean and lubricate the threads to the point that removal is too easy. -good luck.
Re-Posted by Torque1st, with permission.
Last edited by Torque1st; Dec 22, 2006 at 12:41 AM.
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Air Tool Lubrication, and Systems.
To keep all your hoses clean and your air tools PROPERLY lubricated make an inline lubricator. Connect the lubricator right before the tool. You can find directions to make an inline lubricator in my user gallery. Use AIR TOOL OIL available from auto parts, hardware, and tool stores.
The FRL's (Filter/Regulator/Lubricator) that are sold in stores are "point of use" devices intended to provide clean lubricated air to a machine or at a workstation. The lubrication will not travel down the lines very far in an atomized form that an air tool or device needs. The lubricant ends up on the walls of the pipe and hose.
Air System Construction:
DO NOT use Teflon tape on your air hose and pipe joints. The Teflon "fibers" get into bearings and air motors and destroy them. Use regular paste/liquid type pipe thread dope. The pipe dope seals much more effectively also and you will have a greater chance of having no leaks. Do not use any thermoplastic pipe products. Most are not safe to use. Plastic does not cool the air properly like metal pipe systems. This cooling property is very important to moisture control in the lines. Remember to take your drops off the TOP side of the distribution line. Keep the lines sloping down 1/4" per foot in the direction of air movement to help moisture removal. Provide a drop with a drip leg at the end of the pipe system. Drain your pipes and tank regularly. Your compressor tank is the primary air cooler. Make sure your tank and compressor area is well ventilated for cooling. Always use a rubber line to isolate vibrations from the tank to the distribution system. Make sure the rubber line is compatible with the compressor lubricant. Copper lines that are soldered are said to be failure prone from vibration. Copper corrodes and particles can contaminate the air. Iron pipe rusts and rust particles can contaminate the air. Aluminum corrodes and is very $$$. Nothing seems to be perfect but metal is best.
Check some of these links:
http://www.sharpe1.com/dr-pipe.htm
http://www.air.ingersoll-rand.com/AST/common.htm
The FRL's (Filter/Regulator/Lubricator) that are sold in stores are "point of use" devices intended to provide clean lubricated air to a machine or at a workstation. The lubrication will not travel down the lines very far in an atomized form that an air tool or device needs. The lubricant ends up on the walls of the pipe and hose.
Air System Construction:
DO NOT use Teflon tape on your air hose and pipe joints. The Teflon "fibers" get into bearings and air motors and destroy them. Use regular paste/liquid type pipe thread dope. The pipe dope seals much more effectively also and you will have a greater chance of having no leaks. Do not use any thermoplastic pipe products. Most are not safe to use. Plastic does not cool the air properly like metal pipe systems. This cooling property is very important to moisture control in the lines. Remember to take your drops off the TOP side of the distribution line. Keep the lines sloping down 1/4" per foot in the direction of air movement to help moisture removal. Provide a drop with a drip leg at the end of the pipe system. Drain your pipes and tank regularly. Your compressor tank is the primary air cooler. Make sure your tank and compressor area is well ventilated for cooling. Always use a rubber line to isolate vibrations from the tank to the distribution system. Make sure the rubber line is compatible with the compressor lubricant. Copper lines that are soldered are said to be failure prone from vibration. Copper corrodes and particles can contaminate the air. Iron pipe rusts and rust particles can contaminate the air. Aluminum corrodes and is very $$$. Nothing seems to be perfect but metal is best.
Check some of these links:
http://www.sharpe1.com/dr-pipe.htm
http://www.air.ingersoll-rand.com/AST/common.htm
Last edited by Torque1st; Sep 21, 2005 at 01:48 AM.
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Dull or Yellow Headlight Lenses
Those dull yellow plastic headlight lenses can be fixed! Check out the following thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=228525
If the haze seems to be on the inside you can try rinsing them out with vinegar and then alcohol and drying them with a hair dryer. let them air dry b4 you use the hair dryer. Otherwise there is nothing you can do in this situation but replace them. Ebay seems to be a good source of headlight assy's.
There are several more threads here and in various places on the forums about this subject also. You can find them with the search function sometimes
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=228525
If the haze seems to be on the inside you can try rinsing them out with vinegar and then alcohol and drying them with a hair dryer. let them air dry b4 you use the hair dryer. Otherwise there is nothing you can do in this situation but replace them. Ebay seems to be a good source of headlight assy's.
There are several more threads here and in various places on the forums about this subject also. You can find them with the search function sometimes
Last edited by Torque1st; Oct 19, 2005 at 11:48 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Serpentine Belt Noise
Serpentine belts are a great invention unfortunately they drive everything on a modern engine which places a lot of load on them. When your belt displays any of the following:
-squeals when accelerating.
-chirps constantly
-squeals constantly
-squeals when wet or moist outside
-squeals when cold
-or any combination of the above.
The belt must be replaced, but wait... If you replace the belt it may stop for a while but then the noise comes back.
-This is because the old belt was slipping and has polished the pulleys or "glazed" them. So before you replace that noisy belt scrub all of the pulleys well with a scotch brite pad, or a good wire brush to remove the glaze and rough up the surface. Clean them off with brake cleaner afterward. Belts work by friction so if the surface is polished too much the belt will slip. If you have already put on a new belt and it is making noise, -sorry you must buy a new one again. Slipping on the pulleys will glaze a new belt fast which ruins it. Some people say you can apply brake cleaner etc to a new belt to fix it but that may not work well. If it slips it will just mess up your newly cleaned pulleys and you will have to scrub them up all over again. So do the job right and rough up the pulleys AND replace the belt at the same time.
There are a few other things that can cause serpentine belt noise tho so before you replace the belt check the following:
-The bearings in the tensioner and idler pulleys can go bad. To test this put some chalk or whiteout on the edge of those pulleys so it makes a bright "flash" you can see when it rotates. If the chirp is in time with the flash on one of the pulleys most likely you have a bad bearing in that pulley. Sometimes if you have the right tools you can press in a new bearing. Other times you need to get a new assembly. Other accessories can have bad bearings also so you may need to mark and watch them also. WARNING: Never stand in line with a moving belt or fan. If it comes apart etc it could cause severe injury.
-The tensioner can loose it's tension which will cause the belts to slip. If it is easy to move the tensioner then it needs to be replaced and the pulleys cleaned and belt replaced.
-The belt can become delaminated and part of the outer fabric cover can come loose which will "flap" when it hits parts of the engine making a noise. If you hear this tick tick tick noise and it seems to be in time with that printing on the belt then this may be the problem. Always install a serpentine belt so that the cover splice is pushed down by the motion of the belt rather than being peeled upward.
-The belt can crack or delaminate and sections of the inner VVVVV surface may break off and cause mysterious noises. If you see more than a few cracks per inch in the inner surface replace the belt.
-Hope this helps!
REMEMBER: NEVER PUT ANY LUBRICANT ON A BELT!!! A lubricant may stop the belt from making noise temporarily but it defeats the purpose of having a belt. You need FRICTION between the belt and pulleys to transfer power. If you lube a belt it changes the frequency of the sound the belt makes to one you can't hear but will not drive the pulleys fast enough and you may end up with a dead battery, dim lights, poor AC, or high engine temps, etc. The slippage and lubricants work together to produce heat in the belt which will destroy the belt rapidly.
-squeals when accelerating.
-chirps constantly
-squeals constantly
-squeals when wet or moist outside
-squeals when cold
-or any combination of the above.
The belt must be replaced, but wait... If you replace the belt it may stop for a while but then the noise comes back.
-This is because the old belt was slipping and has polished the pulleys or "glazed" them. So before you replace that noisy belt scrub all of the pulleys well with a scotch brite pad, or a good wire brush to remove the glaze and rough up the surface. Clean them off with brake cleaner afterward. Belts work by friction so if the surface is polished too much the belt will slip. If you have already put on a new belt and it is making noise, -sorry you must buy a new one again. Slipping on the pulleys will glaze a new belt fast which ruins it. Some people say you can apply brake cleaner etc to a new belt to fix it but that may not work well. If it slips it will just mess up your newly cleaned pulleys and you will have to scrub them up all over again. So do the job right and rough up the pulleys AND replace the belt at the same time.There are a few other things that can cause serpentine belt noise tho so before you replace the belt check the following:
-The bearings in the tensioner and idler pulleys can go bad. To test this put some chalk or whiteout on the edge of those pulleys so it makes a bright "flash" you can see when it rotates. If the chirp is in time with the flash on one of the pulleys most likely you have a bad bearing in that pulley. Sometimes if you have the right tools you can press in a new bearing. Other times you need to get a new assembly. Other accessories can have bad bearings also so you may need to mark and watch them also. WARNING: Never stand in line with a moving belt or fan. If it comes apart etc it could cause severe injury.
-The tensioner can loose it's tension which will cause the belts to slip. If it is easy to move the tensioner then it needs to be replaced and the pulleys cleaned and belt replaced.
-The belt can become delaminated and part of the outer fabric cover can come loose which will "flap" when it hits parts of the engine making a noise. If you hear this tick tick tick noise and it seems to be in time with that printing on the belt then this may be the problem. Always install a serpentine belt so that the cover splice is pushed down by the motion of the belt rather than being peeled upward.
-The belt can crack or delaminate and sections of the inner VVVVV surface may break off and cause mysterious noises. If you see more than a few cracks per inch in the inner surface replace the belt.
-Hope this helps!
REMEMBER: NEVER PUT ANY LUBRICANT ON A BELT!!! A lubricant may stop the belt from making noise temporarily but it defeats the purpose of having a belt. You need FRICTION between the belt and pulleys to transfer power. If you lube a belt it changes the frequency of the sound the belt makes to one you can't hear but will not drive the pulleys fast enough and you may end up with a dead battery, dim lights, poor AC, or high engine temps, etc. The slippage and lubricants work together to produce heat in the belt which will destroy the belt rapidly.
Last edited by Torque1st; Apr 11, 2006 at 11:16 PM.
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Parts Cleaners
Check out the threads on parts cleaners:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=481899
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=467607
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=418945
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=334856
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=257270
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=192494
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=156244
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=132849
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=121082
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=4801
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=481899
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=467607
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=418945
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=334856
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=257270
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=192494
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=156244
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=132849
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=121082
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=4801
Last edited by Torque1st; Apr 11, 2006 at 11:33 PM.
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Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
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PCV Filter Material
You can replace the filter material in valve covers and some intake manifolds with a copper "chore girl" type scrub pad available at any grocery store. If you have to cut it down to fit make sure you shake it out and blow it out with air if possible to remove any loose material.
The pads (filter material) cause the oil vapor/aerosol to condense on the fibers so it can drain back into the crankcase. This collects the oil that can be sucked into the intake thru the PCV system. Most old mechanics know this trick.
The fiber stuff the OEM's use breaks apart over the years and it clogs with sludge, varnish, and carbon. It can not be re-used. It is generally a PITA to clean the old gunk out of the baffles. Make sure you clean it out during a rebuild or service tho.
The pads (filter material) cause the oil vapor/aerosol to condense on the fibers so it can drain back into the crankcase. This collects the oil that can be sucked into the intake thru the PCV system. Most old mechanics know this trick.
The fiber stuff the OEM's use breaks apart over the years and it clogs with sludge, varnish, and carbon. It can not be re-used. It is generally a PITA to clean the old gunk out of the baffles. Make sure you clean it out during a rebuild or service tho.
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