I just bought a '72 F100. It has very little body rust, but where it does have some rust what can it do with it? The back bumper is bad, and there is a little on the lines. I don't want it to spread.

Thanks!

ADR

 

 

Your picture did not show up but I'm guessing from the description it is just surface rust.

For that you can just wire-wheel or sand it off then primer and paint. To take it a step further you can spray some of this stuff on the bare metal surface to help neutralize the remaining rust and then paint over it...

PREP & READY-POR-15 Inc.

If you have holes in the metal, the best way to fix that is cut it out and weld in new metal.

 

Thanks Old Brown! Don't know why my pic won't show.

ADR

 

What paint do you rec by the way?

 

For paint recommendations, depends on what part of the truck and how much you want to spend(money and time).

For the frame, engine bay(not the engine) and underbody I would use POR15. Lots of prep work and hard to get off you skin, but it is tough stuff when done right. If you have never painted with it practice on something else first. I've always brushed it on but supposedly you can spray it as well. It is expensive.

I've tried the Rust-Oleum paint in the engine bay and underneath on the floor pans and had mixed results. Some areas looked okay and others cracked and flaked off. In my opinion their paint does not stop the rust because it bubbled back through a year later. Por15 on the other hand has yet to crack or let rust develop. I'd stay away from Rust-Oleum for painting a vehicle, save it for lawn furniture.

For the truck bed, Herculiner, least expensive and sturdy. Line-X or Rhino Linings, both of them are spray on and done by a professional. They also cost more. Don't use insert bed liners, they scratch the paint off and promote rust by trapping water.

For the body of the truck there is a large selection of paints you can get from Dupli-Color. The paint is affordable and holds up pretty good. You can get spray cans or small containers to be sprayed with a gun.

There are higher quality automotive paints like Planet Color by Sherwin-Williams or PPG but for their price, you would be better off letting a professional auto painter apply them.

Getting a paint job to look good takes a lot of prep work and practice. Depending on the size of the job sometimes it is just easier to pay a professional to do it.

 

What would you rec for the bumper? This info is great!

 

POR-15 can be brushed on, but I would recommend paper coveralls, gloves, and a face shield. You don't want that stuff on your skin. I did my frame of my 67 with it, then shot Eastwoods chassis black paint over it. POR-15 wil react to ultra violet light (sunlight), and will chalk out.

BTW, it recomends that if your going to shoot it, that you have a forced air respirator, so it must be quite nasty to breathe in. That's why I brushed it on. Just my .02!

 

A friend at work painted the tub of his Jeep with POR15 and didn't wear gloves. He had that stuff stuck to his hands and forearms for over 3 weeks.

People at work kept asking him "what happened to you hands!?"

 

There is this stuff called Rust Converter that I have used from this company called Gempler's. It works good, I usually top it off with a heavy coat of Rustoleum. Do you think the Por 15 would be better?

 

ive used por15 with good results but do use gloves i didn't and my hands were black for weeks there's also stuff called rust bullet i haven't used it or heard many peoples reviews after they did so i don't know how good it is i'm looking into it now for myself to use on my frame if anyone knows more about it let me know how it is and if its worth it.

 

Just got my Eastwood catalogue, and was going to check out the Por 15, and here it looks like they are recommending using their Rust Converter, topped by their product, Rust Encapsulator. What do you think? I am thinking about calling Eastwood and finding out what the difference is between all of these products.