Now you have enough power to the Glow Plugs to heat them properly.

8 seconds on a cold motor is not enough, this (as already stated) points to failed Glow Plugs.

White smoke while cranking indicates enough Fuel, not enough heat!

I'm not sure I understood your testing procedure on the glow plugs so I'll include my procedure as well as my post 86 (87-94) Glow System procedure in case anything there helps.

*** Glow Plug Test:v2.0.1
Test light test of the glow plugs.

1. Unplug the Glow Plugs at the Glow Plugs.
2. Attach one lead of a test light to 12v+ battery.
3. Touch the other lead to the terminal on the end of the Glow Plug. (where you unplugged the harness)
   Does it light up?
   1. Yes, Chances are it's good.
   2. No, Replace with Motorcraft/Beru ZD1A for 83-86, ZD9 for 87-94.5.
4. Repeat step 3 for all Glow Plugs.
5. Reconnect Glow Plugs.

This test is susceptible to miss diagnoses and should only be used for a quick reference.
To do a positive test use a volt/ohm meter and test the ohms between the terminal and base. Should be .5 to 1 ohm resistance.

********************************************** Post '86 Glow System testing. (87-94)v2.0.1
***** The following assumes you have already checked cables, connections (chassis to engine connector), cab, chassis and engine grounds.
***** When testing energize briefly, long enough to get the answer, no need to overheat things and no more than 10 seconds.

Disconnect the forward most connector on the Injection pump (towards front of truck), this prevents overheating the FSS.

1. Turn Ignition on.
2. Does WTS come on at all?
   1. Yes, Test Glow Plugs.
   2. No, Test WTS Light.

*** WTS Light test:v2.0.1
Step 1

1. Disconnect WTS light at Controller connector.
2. Ground WTS wire on harness side. (not controller side)
3. Turn Ignition Switch on.
4. Does the WTS light come on?
   1. Yes, WTS light works.
   2. No, Check WTS wiring, Replace Bulb.

Step 2

1. Disconnect WTS light at Controller connector.
2. Turn Ignition Switch on.
3. Does the WTS light come on?
   1. Yes, Fix wiring.
   2. No, Replace Controller.

*** Test power to Glow Plugs:v2.0.1
Using a volt meter versus a test light and comparing battery voltage at the battery and glow plug connector gives a more difinitive answer on the condition of the harness, connectors and relay.

1. Unplug 1 glow plug on either the left or right bank.
2. Attach one lead of a test light to the glow plug wire ensuring a good connection.
3. Attach the other lead to ground.
4. Momentarily turn the key on while watching the test light. (No longer then 10 seconds)
   Does it light up?
   1. No, Inspect harness and connectors, test controller and relay.
   2. Yes, Test Glow Plugs.
5. Reconnect Glow Plug.
6. Repeat for other bank.

*** Controller test, Post '86 (87-94):v2.0.1
This is a solid state controller and works on a grounding system.

1. Attach one lead of a test light to the relay Ground Terminal. (white wire)
2. Attach the other lead to 12v+. (Input Terminal)
3. Turn the key on while watching the test light.
4. Does it light up?
   1. Yes, controller is good.
   2. No, controller is failed.

*** Relay test, Post '86 (87-94):v2.0.1
The relay is attached to the top of the controller and has 4 terminals. (same relay as the 83-86)

• 1 large terminal (Input or Battery Terminal) goes to full time 12v+. (battery)
• The other large terminal (Output or Glow Plug Terminal) goes to the glow plugs.
• 1 small terminal (Power Terminal) is Ignition Switched 12v+ relay power. (red wire)
• The other small terminal (Ground or Controller Terminal) goes to the controller and is a controlled ground. (white wire)
  The controller grounds the Ground Terminal to activate the relay turning on the glow plugs.

• Ensure there is 12v+ to the relay Input Terminal at all times. (yellow wire)
• Ensure there is keyon/keystart 12v+ to the relay Power terminal. (red wire)
• Ensure that the controller is well grounded. (black wire)

1. Attach one lead to the Output Terminal of the relay. (Glow Plug terminal)
2. Attach the other lead to ground.
3. Disconnect the small white wire from the relay Ground Terminal.
4. Turn key on.
5. With a jumper wire momentarily ground the Ground Terminal. (where the white wire was)
   Does it light up?
   1. No, relay is bad.
   2. Yes, relay MAY BE good.
      For a more difinitive answer use a volt meter and test the voltage at the battery positive post and the Output Terminal while energized (jumpered), BE QUICK 10 seconds or less.
      Are Voltages close to the same? (A couple volt drop is normal)
      1. Yes, Relay is good.
      2. No, relay is bad. (replace with one from a 83-86)
6. Reconnect the white wire.

Reconnect FSS. (forward most connector on the Injection pump (towards front of truck))

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

U sure gave me some work fh hehe

I been pulling cables all day here, i found one glow plug that did'nt get power thru the glow plug connector, after i cleaned that connection and tightend it a bit with a plier the wait to start (wts?) lamp stays on for almost 11 seconds.
But it did'nt start any easier
What is "FSS"?
The cable i think is what u reffer to as fss, the one to the front of the truck of the two cables sitting on the drivers side of the truck on the injection pump, the engine changes sound just a little little bit when disconnectin it, while ideling.
My volt / ohm meter seems to be *****ed, it's showing 0 when i measure the glow plugs as decribed, as in a complete shortcut.
No matter how i set the adjustment on it.
Maybe it's time for a new one.

 

FWIW, these engine needs good RPM's to start. Starter, cables, and battery. If any are in poor condition, You'll get slow starter speeds. Which will lead to longer cranking for a good start.

 

I did put on a new starter last week, and replaced some of the cables and also the batteries yesterday.
It sounds like it's cranking in "normal" speed to me, but i never had a ford diesel before so i got nothing to compare with.

 

Unfortunately fixing things take work, they don't fix themselves.

FSS = Fuel Shutoff Solenoid ... It is the Forward most (towards front of truck) connector on the IP.
On a basic DB2 Injection pump (whats on these trucks) there are TWO connectors, The forward most one is the FSS (Fuel Shutoff Solenoid), The rearward one is the CSA (Cold Start Advance).

The Cold Start Circuit powers the High Idle Solenoid and the Cold Start Advance in the IP.
Under/behind/next to the Thermostat housing is the 112F degree Cold Start Thermal Switch that controls the Cold Start Circuit, it has two terminals, power (12v+) in and Thermally Switched power out!
Power out goes to the High Idle Solenoid then continues to the CSA on the IP.
You do not need the High Idle Solenoid, but you should get it fixed, it is a nice thing to have!
The Cold Start Advance is needed and you should verify 12v+ to it when water temp is below 112F. (cold motor)

As to my procedures previously posted.
Please point out anything in those procedures that you do not understand or are not clear and I'll try and fix em up mo better.

It appears I should add an Acronym definition table ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

The only thing i did'nt understand was the "fss" (first i thought it was "fukin stoppid swede" but it did'nt really fit in.)

I opend the nuts for the injectorlines on each injector about a quarter of a turn and cranked it for about 2 seconds, they were still dry.
I cranked it for another 5 seconds and then 4 of them started to bleed.
I just did it to test if there is fuel coming straight away.
Maybe it's not right way to check that?

I'm thinking of removing some glow plug and ground it with a decent jumper cable and see if it get's shining red before the wts light goes out?

 

I would never call anyone a 'f...... stupid swede', just 'stupid'!
And just to be clear, I'm not calling you stupid! (well at least not yet ... Just kidding)

Nothing wrong with cracking Injector lines to see how fast they show fuel, I believe it should be immediately.

Make sure you don't hold onto them with bare hands ...
They get awful hot real quick!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

No, i did'nt mean it seriously, i was just kidding.
So the day someone calls me FSS they better add "i'm not kidding"


Might it be some valve in the pump letting the fuel go back, or the injectors?

I dragged out the misses to cranked the engine while i looked @ the exhaust, and it's nothing coming out in the beginning, but when it starts there was lots of white smoke coming out.

But i always thought that if the diesel lost pressure or/and let air into the system it would not start on all cylinders and would be running bad for a little while in the beginning?

Another thing with the injection lines, fluid under high pressure is dangerous, i used to work with a guy who got "shot" with a high pressure washer by misstake, he still is'nt well after that, it was over 5 years ago. even worse if it would have been diesel going thru his skin instead i guess..

 

Air intrusion allows the Fuel in the system to drain back to the tank, thus no fuel for startup, what little fuel is there is also accompanied with a lot of air, thus the surging and dying.

Air in the Injection lines is no big deal (on these motors), it'll bleed off in a couple injection cycles.

Yes, the Injection pump or Injectors could be leaking off the fuel on the high pressure side, I do not know if this is normal or not on these motors, It should not be if it is, the injection lines should remain full and not drain off.

As for the white smoke not at first, of course not, It takes a little cranking to push it all the way out the pipe.

Anything under high pressure is dangerous, I've seen what compressed air can do to the human body, it ain't pretty!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I did put in the reman injectors, and now it does start a lot aesier, but still not really great, i think i'll drive with it for a while and see what happends.
I got other problems now so i maybe wont be able to get it registrered here, then there is no point in putting more money in it