1966 Brake Help
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 207
Likes: 1
From: Ferndale, WA
I don't think it matters what kind of master cyl. you put on. I don't think it will change a thing. Sure wish you lived close enough to take a drive in my truck! I drive it almost every day, but I am pretty careful about what kind of situations I get into on the account that I'm sharing the road with drivers that have far better brakes, suspensions, mirrors, motors, safety equipment...........
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: North Alabama
Well, we've checked everything again. Re-bled the brakes real good. Fluid was clear and seemed to bleed at same rate. I haven't had a chance to check drum temps per oldblu but I'm gonna do that this afternoon. If that fails the only thing I know to do is try a new master cylinder like ND suggested.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 207
Likes: 1
From: Ferndale, WA
jglee, Is your truck equipped with power brakes? If so, did you check for vacuum supply? A properly operating power brake booster will give you a pedal that gets harder and higher in a couple of pumps after the engine is shut off. I don't know if there are different master cyls. for power or non power brakes. Could the PO have put a power brake master on a non power truck? Might be worth chasing that angle.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: North Alabama
Oldblu, it's nonpower brakes. I haven't seen any reference to different m/c's but I'm a newbie so I don't know. However, the current m/c looks like an original style based on what I see in the catalogs. I'm gonna play with it some more this afternoon. Thanks for the input.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Suggest remove and inspect master cylinder, if the chamber does not look pitted and/or corroded you might want to rebuild. Checked couple Ford part suppliers and see where the rebuild kit can run $25 and new at $125. Suggest check with local auto parts store, I tend to have better success with quality and obtaining parts thru Napa Auto, when the 65 was upgraded to front disc. I purchased a new M/C thru Napa for $45. If determine M/C needs to be replaced and find it too expensive and decide to go with rebuilding it's fairly basic the only item needed besides the kit is small sheet of XXX fine sandpaper to clean the chamber. Anyhow, just a suggestion and food for thought. If decide to rebuild make sure to take the old done with you.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
I just called my local CarQuest (I'm local to you btw jglee)and a NEW Raybestos unit runs 82.99 its p/n is E37073 I asked for one for a 66 3/4 ton 2WD(F100 uses same master cylinder).
For what it is and what it does...I would go with new...
- cs65
For what it is and what it does...I would go with new...
- cs65
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 825
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
Well, we've checked everything again. Re-bled the brakes real good. Fluid was clear and seemed to bleed at same rate. I haven't had a chance to check drum temps per oldblu but I'm gonna do that this afternoon. If that fails the only thing I know to do is try a new master cylinder like ND suggested.
I recall thinking the same about my brakes (taking a lot of foot to stop) when I first got our truck. Remember, it is real easy to get used to a modern vehicle's power brake with disc brakes system, and a big shock the first time you try to stop a 60's truck.
Since this is my wifes truck, I quickly added a stock 7" booster. That helped a lot and was very easy to do - used the same M/C and didn't even have to disconnect brake lines!
You could use a larger booster or dual diaphragm to get even more assistance in the stopping department, although is is not really needed with the stock drum setup.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Bolivar, MO>
Just a thought gentlemen but has anyone thought of the fact that the shoes were just replaced. In my experience anytime i replaced shoes and the brakes were too tight or not worn in to the drums my brake pedal would be hard to push and have limted travel. however all these folks are correct in having the man check his lines, mc, etc. Maybe just driving it a while and readjusting the shoes after they have been used some and making sure they are not too tight will solve the problem. if there is limited movement before the shoe hits the drum the pedal will not move much and be hard to push if the mc is in good shape.
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