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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

starting and fuel pump issue

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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:06 AM
  #16  
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All i would need to test for a 12v draw would be a testlight, right?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 02:26 PM
  #17  
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Yeah.. I use a voltmeter so I can see if what I get at the test area.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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Take the starter out, sit it on the ground, clip the neg jumper cable to the mounting ear of the starter, and the neg of the battery. Take the pos cable and hook it to the battery +, and then touch the other end of the pos cable to the large terminal on the starter. You will probably need to put your foot on the starter when testing to keep it from jumping around if it works.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 87pomona

This wire is getting power. Does anyone have an idea where it might go?

Can this possibly be the culprit of my battery drainage problems?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:08 PM
  #20  
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Red face

Had a similar problem with my 85 w/ 460. turned out to be neg ( - ) cable. where it attached to frame and engine had a dirty / poor connection.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:30 PM
  #21  
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When i replaced the negative cable the old cable wasnt attached to the frame, just engine. So i would need to run another negative cable to the fram right?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #22  
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Some people will suggest that, and some even came from the factory that way. But, I really doubt it'd
have any effect on your immediate problem.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:36 PM
  #23  
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Frame...........
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 09:16 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 87pomona
Frame...........
If you hook the heavy negative battery cable to the frame only, I can guarantee it will not crank over for very long if it all, and you might even get some smoke out of the deal.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 04:32 PM
  #25  
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If you did the test in post 2 and the light did not come on, you don't have a draw. If your battery voltage drops to 3.5v when you try to crank it you either have a bad battery (likely) or your starter is drawing a LOT of current (not likely). Did you try jump starting the truck with a GOOD set of jumper cables? Ths small cheapies wont usually carry enough current to start if your battery is bad. Sounds to me like you have a bad battery though.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bashby
If you did the test in post 2 and the light did not come on, you don't have a draw. If your battery voltage drops to 3.5v when you try to crank it you either have a bad battery (likely) or your starter is drawing a LOT of current (not likely). Did you try jump starting the truck with a GOOD set of jumper cables? Ths small cheapies wont usually carry enough current to start if your battery is bad. Sounds to me like you have a bad battery though.
first i tried jumpstarting with my camaro. The cables sparked when i first connected them then they got really hot so i removed them. Next i removed my kinetik 1800 battery from my camaro and installed it in the truck. Tried cranking it, samething happened; drained my camaros battery.

Im steering away from a bad battery because of what happened above.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 05:42 PM
  #27  
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Engine locked up maybe? I think the crank bolt is 15/16", see if it turns
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 05:48 PM
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It turns. My friend turned it over by hand to check/set the timing.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 05:56 PM
  #29  
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I'd confirm the battery voltage thing. What's the voltage with key off. How about when trying to crank. make sure you check it on the battery terminal itself, not the cable. If it drops to 3.5 like it did before it HAS to be a battery or MAJOR starter circuit draw, maybe the starter cable shorted to frame or engine block or wired wrong
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 06:02 PM
  #30  
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For the voltage to drop that far on a good battery you'd probably be pulling 500a or more(guestimate, probably a lot more) I think starter draw is only 100a or so.
 
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