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F250 does not go!

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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 02:46 AM
  #1  
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F250 does not go!

I have a 04 F250 with a 6.0 diesel motor. It was working perfect then it would not run over 1100 RPM's. then it finally quit running. The motor turns over but will not start. I changed the fuel filters, but nothing.
I had it towed home, and it now will start, but all it does is idle. I can press the gas pedal to the floor and nothing happens.
I think its the fuel pump, others say its the injectors.
No smoke came out of the pipe, it just quit running.
Can anyone help?
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 05:44 AM
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Is a TPS a problem on these trucks? Maybe someone will pipe up...
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 06:57 AM
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Sounds like the Idle Validation Switch (IVS).

Does a 6-oh have these?

Pop
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 12:11 PM
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I'm wondering the same thing...
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 12:19 PM
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The 6.0 will set a code and cel if there are any pedal issues, Page 50: Electrical Components It sounds to me like a wiring issue with the FICM there were chafing issues on the 03-04.Take a look in the 6.0 forums tech folder the common areas for chafing should be in there somewhere,if you don't find anything PM me and I will dig it up for you.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 10:46 AM
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Maybe someone can give me an idea on my truck... I too have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 4x4 w/7.3L that on ecelerating it kinda wanted to putt out on me. The problem seems to be getting worse. Its now stalling out. idles good until I give it gas and then it seems to want to die out. We've changed the IDM cause the tested was not getting a reading to determine the real problem. I'm guessing we may have an injector problem. Anyone have any feedback?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:40 AM
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CPS (camshaft position sensor)? Could also be UVCH (under valve-cover harness)... they can come loose as well. If the truck is dying, then it probably isn't your TPS (throttle position sensor). Start with a CPS... it's cheap and rules it out even if it's not the problem. There was a recall and Ford came out with the "Grey CPS"... believe it or not, it's worse than what it replaced. The original (the black IH CPS) is actually the desired CPS. You can get it from Clay at Riffraff Diesel... if that don't fix it, try your UCVH's. Sometimes, the connectors in there will come loose. While you're in there, do the $.50 mod... basically, you take a quarter and wedge it in the connector to keep it from coming loose again. It takes two, one for each side... hence the name $.50 mod.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:57 AM
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Still Stalling

Well... I took the truck to the dealer, and they replaced the CPS as indicated in the recall. They changed that before I changed the IDM... No change.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:00 PM
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Well, I've found out just from being on here that just because you took it to the dealer doesn't mean it was done right... a guy on here was told he needed to new HPOP (high-pressure oil pump... it costs $500) and it turned out all he needed to do was clean the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator... it cost $30-worth of parts). Pretty sick... but it just gives you an excuse to learn to do it yourself (you can... don't let anybody tell you you can't!). It could also be other things... are your filters clean? How many miles do you have? Your fuel pump might be dying... there's also a strainer in the tank that can get plugged up. Both of those could cause your problem... any input, guys?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:14 PM
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Oh trust me... I agree 100% about "dealer" shananagens. I think they might of already figured what the problem is... but they were less than interested in providing me a diagnosis after working on the recall issue for less than $99.00 just to hook it up to the reader again.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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Why do you think I spent $350 on my own program? 4hrs at the dealer ad it's paid for! What burns me up is the whole "gotta throw parts at it" deal... sorry, but from what I've seen, there's almost ALWAYS a pattern, lack of correct readings, or pressense of incorrect readings that when put together can point to something.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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I dont get it... ??
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:32 PM
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Me neither... but hey, I'm learning this stuff! It's cool too because you can impress other people as well as help your buddies out. That's where I'm at... alot of friends are thinking about 7.3L's because 1) they're reliable, but 2) I'd be able to help them out. You can do almost anything, you just gotta wanna fool with. Just take your time, be meticulous about how you take it apart and go into your project armed with as much info as can be gathered. The guys here on FTE are an awesome crowd... between all of us, you can probably get most any problem solved. Seriously... I've gotten my truck with 295K from rather sluggish and "seemingly worn out" to spunky and "full of MANY more miles"! Simple O-rings, harnesses, stupid sensors, regulators, pumps, etc. can cause problems that make the truck seem like a piece of unreliable junk. With my truck, it was kinda like a stage... once I got through all the bugs, the truck has since then been awesome! I'd drive it to CA and back no problem. But you get the idea...
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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Sooooo... not to sound stupid, but when " you take a quarter and wedge it in the connector to keep it from coming loose again" do you mean wedge it in and leave it there? or wedge it in, and take it back out?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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Got any codes?
 
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