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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 12:24 PM
  #16  
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My trucks will idle-up some when cold and close EBPV when cooooold enough, but I find 1100rpm gets them warm faster. Specifically cabin heat. I rarely do this though. I tend to let it run (in stock tune) for a couple minutes before driving off slowly, then stay below 2k rpm's and 5psi boost until operating temp. (about 4 miles).

I primarily use hi-idle for running HVAC when parked. Although 'technically' not wet-stacking, the issue becomes low combustion chamber temps during extended idling. This can lead to incomplete combustion/coking over time. LOTS of ambulances, fire trucks, etc have 'hi-idled' for hours and hours at a time thru their lifespan, so it can't be toooo bad to do it this way!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 02:22 PM
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I went big with 1400. Figured if I was going to high idle, just make it high. Never regretted it. I have now some sort of problem with my 2nd old four position switch, same prob as 1st one had. It defaults to Position 1 which is High Idle on my truck. Well if you start it in high idle, it ramps to that RPM in a HURRY much faster than the go pedal ever could. My temp fix seems to be push in parking brake and release it... something to do with the vibration from that usually will fix the problem. Someday I'll get a new setup like the fancy news ones from DP.

I live in the country so high idle sound isn't such a big deal. In a neighborhood? I wouldn't. Depends on if you hate your neighbors I guess.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:50 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ghig1967
As for worrying about the noise.. your neighbors are going to "LOVE" you..
Thanks for the video. My neighbors already love me. My last truck was a '05 F350 6.0L with a MBRP exhaust on it. That was loud enough. Then I bought a '78 Trans Am with a built 350, straight piped, that has two speeds... fast and sideways fast. Now this one. Can't wait.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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Do I want to get it with the EBV closed or open? Whats the difference? I've heard the term EBV tossed around a few times, but never knew what it was.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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Exhaust Backpressure Valve. Basically chokes the exhaust down to almost nothing to help the engine warm up faster.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:05 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cdrmotorsports
Do I want to get it with the EBV closed or open? Whats the difference? I've heard the term EBV tossed around a few times, but never knew what it was.
Open. The EBPV will close automatically when its cold enough to provide a faster warm-up as needed. Again, most will use hi-idle for idling with HVAC on waiting for Momma at the grocery store or with the kiddos at the bus stop. STOCK tune is adequate for 'normal' warm-up, but if yer cold before truck thinks its cold enough to use hi-idle, you can get it warm quicker by using hi-idle tune (i.e. when its 38*, it may not idle-up on its own...)

Hi-idle and closed EBPV with no muffler will not make friends with neighbors... I live in campgrounds more than home (unfortunately) and I'm always conscious of how LOUD my truck is at 4:30AM. I always plug in in winter so I can just fire it up and drive away. (I still drive EASY until EOT at operating temp!)

Since I burn WVO, I'm planning to get a EBPV open and closed tunes. The problem I have is combustion chamber temps get too cool in winter to even use hi-idle. I NEVER 'idle' on VO, because the truck will smoke after a few minutes - indicating poor combustion (even with 190* VO). 1100 rpms prevents the smoke in summer, but not when its COOOOLD out - gonna try EBPV closed for these conditions!!
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:15 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
My trucks will idle-up some when cold and close EBPV when cooooold enough, but I find 1100rpm gets them warm faster. Specifically cabin heat. I rarely do this though. I tend to let it run (in stock tune) for a couple minutes before driving off slowly, then stay below 2k rpm's and 5psi boost until operating temp. (about 4 miles).

I primarily use hi-idle for running HVAC when parked. Although 'technically' not wet-stacking, the issue becomes low combustion chamber temps during extended idling. This can lead to incomplete combustion/coking over time. LOTS of ambulances, fire trucks, etc have 'hi-idled' for hours and hours at a time thru their lifespan, so it can't be toooo bad to do it this way!
I have the nonEBPV pedestal, so I use the high idle to keep my EGTs in check while at an extended idle. With my larger IC, my EGTs can drop to 200* at idle and I like to see at least 300* for better combustion. I also use it while idling for better a/c output and for jump starting. I have the 1200 rpm high idle. I had Jody bump it up from 1100 when I live tuned.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 03:17 PM
  #23  
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Awesome info again, thanks guys.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 05:22 PM
  #24  
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I went with the 1200rpm option and absolutely love it! It worked great this summer keeping my truck cool and worked even better last winter warming it up faster in during the winter.

Go with the ebpv open to leave yourself an option as opposed to trapping yourself with it closed everytime you high idled.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #25  
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I have the high idle and only use it when jump starting another diesel.....sucks when a warm 7.3 idles down and cuts alternator output when trying to jumpstart
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 08:27 AM
  #26  
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I am late to the party but I wanted to put my 2 cents in. I have currently the 1100 high idle but I originally had 1200. When I had a reburn for my BTS valvebody, Jody must have accidentally put my high idle tune back in as 1100, and I must say, having had both, I MUCH prefer the 1200. 1100 just isn't high enough for my liking and it does come in handy from time time, even though as stated, the truck will go to an 1100 high idle when it's cold from the PCM programming. I like the 1200 because it will warm the truck just a little bit faster, as well as it really works well when having to jump start someone with a dead battery.

Just my .02 gentlemen (and ladies).
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 07:42 PM
  #27  
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1200 it will be for sure!
 
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