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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #1  
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Taking a trip...

We are taking a couple 1,500+ round trip drives this fall/winter in the X. It's brake time again (mainly fronts), and I'm tired of how fast the oem rotors warp out, so I am taking matters into my own hands...

A couple questions:

Do I need to replace both front and back rotors at the same time, if it feels like just the fronts are warped?

I am going to put Hawk LTS pads all-round. I want the Powerslot Cryo's up front, but hoping to avoid the additional cost of putting them on the back (maybe use OEMs) - is it ok to mix rotors like that?

If the back rotors still have some meat on them, is it ok to leave them, while putting new ones up front?

Thanks for any advice - just don't want to cause problems. I've replaced brakes before, but never on the X. I will have Guzzle's guide handy for sure.

On another front - I am at 70k miles w/ the oem shocks. They are looking pretty ratty, and the ride doesn't seem as good as it was. Since I will have the wheels off anyway, is it a job I can fit in the same day as the brakes to add Rancho RS9000's???
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 01:35 PM
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A couple questions:

Do I need to replace both front and back rotors at the same time, if it feels like just the fronts are warped? Nope , just do the fronts.

I am going to put Hawk LTS pads all-round. I want the Powerslot Cryo's up front, but hoping to avoid the additional cost of putting them on the back (maybe use OEMs) - is it ok to mix rotors like that? Should be fine , as long as you dont do the reverse , the front are use mainly for stopping and the back just slow you down a bit.

If the back rotors still have some meat on them, is it ok to leave them, while putting new ones up front? If your at all worried at doing another 1500 mile trip , if they are thick enough then dont worry , just look at how many miles they have had on them already. Just keeo an eye our for major corrosion , ie between the rotors , mine crumbled when i was cleaning them, i knew then it was time

Thanks for any advice - just don't want to cause problems. I've replaced brakes before, but never on the X. I will have Guzzle's guide handy for sure. Brakes are the same on the Ex as you will find on all other cars (from what i know) , they are balanced so that the fronts take the power to stop and the rears will just clamp down to slow you down. Only they are a little larger

On another front - I am at 70k miles w/ the oem shocks. They are looking pretty ratty, and the ride doesn't seem as good as it was. Since I will have the wheels off anyway, is it a job I can fit in the same day as the brakes to add Rancho RS9000's??? dont know , i payed someone to do this for me as i dont have the lift / correct tools
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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I would go ahead and do the shocks, too.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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Thanks, guys. I'm w/ you JH - now just have to break it to my wife that the simple brake job just expanded another $300 w/ shocks (& maybe tires...).
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 02:18 PM
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yeah persuade her she wants new rims too , those oem ones look so yesterday & the new ones will leave her feeling loved......



...oh you mean the wife
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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If you do shocks, you could do the tires, too. Then you would only do the alignment once and be done with it.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 02:55 PM
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This is starting to sound like our house renovation...

I'm w/ you on the rims, but that's one thing that prob. won't make the cut this time around.

The alignment issue is a good point though - I didn't realize you had to re-align after doing shocks.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:52 AM
  #8  
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> Do I need to replace both front and back rotors at the same time, if it feels like just the fronts are warped?

Just the fronts are OK as was stated earlier but you might want to consider a second opinion. Rotors "warping" all of the time is a fairly recent phenomenom. Years ago it was a rare occurance. Now it seems to appear just about every time.

Blame is usually placed on either the elimination of asbestos brake pads to thinner rotors used nowadays.

After we switched the main service center for our fleet the owner started recommending sanding the rotors as opposed to cutting or replacing in certain circumstances. He stated that the warped feeling often comes from residue from the pad leaving a slight uneven coating on the rotor, not from actual warping.

FWIW in the instances where sanding was recommended it did eliminate the problem. I am starting to suspect that recutting or replacing the rotors may be the default in many shops as you generally know it will fix the problem whereas there is a chance that just sanding won't. And you are only looking at a minor cost savings in sanding vs cutting. But since sanding removes less material it is possible that the rotors may last longer and that would result in a material savings.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:25 AM
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Interesting point Gene. Thanks for the info. I will be thinking about that if I can't get the PS Cryo's here in time to do the swap before I leave in 3 weeks.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 01:57 PM
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Just ordered up the front PS Cryo's & Hawk LTS pads all around from Riff-Raff. Fingers crossed they get here in time to get them on before leaving. Nice guy at Riffraff, and it sounds like they can make it happen.

Now to ponder shocks and tires...
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by kitebuz
I didn't realize you had to re-align after doing shocks.
How would shock absorbers affect the alignment?

And (at least on the 4x4) it's easy enough to change the shocks with the tires installed. No need to combine the shock & brake jobs.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by kitebuz
I didn't realize you had to re-align after doing shocks.
How would shock absorbers affect the alignment?

And (at least on the 4x4) it's easy enough to change the shocks with the tires installed. No need to combine the shock & brake or tire jobs.

ooops - didn't mean to double post.
 

Last edited by howler4x4; Sep 23, 2010 at 02:47 PM. Reason: "or tire"
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:30 AM
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Just replace the front rotors. The rears do very little to begin with. Just make sure to bed in the hawk pads. Once you have done that then you are all set. Just hold on the next time you do a panic stop. You may go thru the windshield. No kidding.

Pump up the tires to 75 psi and you will get better fuel milage. I get about 22 in 6.0 with 75 psi. At 60 psi I only get about 19.

Enjoy the trip.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:42 AM
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might be an idea to replace the brake fluid also if you have the time, i had the old fluid still in mine , probably the original 10 year old fluid.


the new fluid really does work harder, although i didnt belive it would make all the difference till i changed it.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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Thanks for confirming about the rotors. I am looking forward to the upgrade. I'm pretty sure doing shock does not effect alignment.

I had the brakes serviced last year, where I think they did the fluid, but I will check.

I'm looking at tires now, and started a new thread about the 4 models I am considering. Good point to pump them up prior to a long trip. I usually run mine @ 75psi as well.
 
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