When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Some things I found, see if it helps you. EVTM book shows negative battery cable routed from battery to engine block then starter housing. A second cable starts on the block, I think it goes to frame. My truck was missing the grounds to frame and starter. I added one to frame but missed the starter. Measuring the volts to starter solenoid from ignition switch, I get 12 in start position, 5 in run and event .4 with key in ignition but off. I see many brittle wires with cracks in the insulation. My next step will be to remove the engine harness and replace wires as needed. Before I think about starter system.
It was suggested to me the solenoid would stick if the starter drew too much current. After I fix the harness I will have a parts house test the starter.
Went out & checked mine. Showed 3 V w/ key in "run" position (this voltage is interesting as I would have expected to see nothing/ You showed 5V!). Showed 68 amp draw on the Pos from Bat to solenoid while starting. Two thing's make me go Hmm, that could contribute to this solenoid problem. V's present at the ignition wire to the solenoid in run position, & duration starter has to remain energized to start.
The problem you guy's are experiencing is more common than you'd think. I've seen how to work around it, but yet to pin the exact cause. My thinking is it's more a perfect storm of a few causes that combine.
Current doesn't melt stuff by itself. Amperage!!! The more efficiently the current is handled, the less amperage is produced. I keep thinking of it as water flow. Larger pipe, less restriction/ less resistance. Resistance = amperage = heat. Poor connections/ less efficient (effective) application = restriction/resistance/amperage/heat/..............."pooched starter solenoid"!