Electrical issue, I'm stumped! Help!
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From: Gridley Ks
Electrical issue, I'm stumped! Help!
A friend has had this 87' 5.0 auto 1/2 for 6 months. the day he bought it it ran fine. The prev owner had replaced the starter, steering colum, alt, bat, start sol, and distrubtor. I told him he was chasing a gremlin. Forward to yesterday. After walking home 3 times in the 1st month he parked it. Yesterday he took $300 from me to get it out of his yard. He's replaced the fuel pumps, ignition mod, ingnition switch, ignition box. The last time he was working on it the starter stuck and he burned his hand trying to disconnect the bat cable b4 it melted off. The truck would run fine for a mile or so every time something was replaced which leads me to believe something in the fuse box is burned and crossing over or the steering colum instal wasn't clean.
I'm banging my head on ways to check this thing out b4 I part it out of keep it. Any help would be greatly apreciated!
I'm banging my head on ways to check this thing out b4 I part it out of keep it. Any help would be greatly apreciated!
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From: Gridley Ks
But whats causing the sticking?
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if you have access to a multi-meter, you can run a drain test. disconnect the postive line of the battery. connect the red line to the disconnected line and the black to the battery positive. then pull the fuses one by one to see what changes the reading.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Kalamazoo, MI
I have seen the relays themselves stick, but more commonly it's a bad ignition switch that's damaged internally and does not spring back out of the crank position..
like I said over on the Nations,
let us know what problem he was originally chasing..
the one that made him check the codes..
let's start by seeing if he didn't create his own problem..
like I said over on the Nations,
let us know what problem he was originally chasing..
the one that made him check the codes..
let's start by seeing if he didn't create his own problem..
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From: Casa Grande
I'm having similar problems with a '86 F150, 5.0l. Truck, sat for 1 to 5 years before I got it. Replaced all fluids, tune up started driving. Both fuel pumps went out, starter, solenoid, ignition switch, all replaced. Truck lost power on freeway after 40 mile drive. Code was spout signal open. Replaced module. Can't get more than 10 miles from home without dying still same code setting. Wire has continuity to computer. Just this morning solenoid stuck. Key removed from ignition and wire pulled from side of solenoid, engine kept cranking. Only pulling cable stopped it. Now searching for what to check when I found this post. Total miles since bring back about 450.
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From: Gridley Ks
I'm having similar problems with a '86 F150, 5.0l. Truck, sat for 1 to 5 years before I got it. Replaced all fluids, tune up started driving. Both fuel pumps went out, starter, solenoid, ignition switch, all replaced. Truck lost power on freeway after 40 mile drive. Code was spout signal open. Replaced module. Can't get more than 10 miles from home without dying still same code setting. Wire has continuity to computer. Just this morning solenoid stuck. Key removed from ignition and wire pulled from side of solenoid, engine kept cranking. Only pulling cable stopped it. Now searching for what to check when I found this post. Total miles since bring back about 450.
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If the starter was stuck and you left the vehicle you can have a good chance at finding the bugger.
Try disconnecting the small wire from the starter relay on the passenger side fender. Then measure volts from the signal wire to a good ground. See if putting the key in the ignition and turning it to on re-creates the condition.
It sounded like a bad relay. But there are a few things to check.
Try disconnecting the small wire from the starter relay on the passenger side fender. Then measure volts from the signal wire to a good ground. See if putting the key in the ignition and turning it to on re-creates the condition.
It sounded like a bad relay. But there are a few things to check.
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From: Casa Grande
Some things I found, see if it helps you. EVTM book shows negative battery cable routed from battery to engine block then starter housing. A second cable starts on the block, I think it goes to frame. My truck was missing the grounds to frame and starter. I added one to frame but missed the starter. Measuring the volts to starter solenoid from ignition switch, I get 12 in start position, 5 in run and event .4 with key in ignition but off. I see many brittle wires with cracks in the insulation. My next step will be to remove the engine harness and replace wires as needed. Before I think about starter system.
It was suggested to me the solenoid would stick if the starter drew too much current. After I fix the harness I will have a parts house test the starter.
It was suggested to me the solenoid would stick if the starter drew too much current. After I fix the harness I will have a parts house test the starter.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
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From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Excessive amperage draw from the starter fries the solenoid. Clean all NEG cable connections. Replace Pos cables w/ 2 awg. Replace the solenoid again if it's fried. You'll be fine after that. (Although keep an eye on your starter)
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From: Casa Grande
Joker, the key did not stick, only solenoid. Got the wiring harness apart found wires from distributor module broke insulation and shorted right where it enters harness. I am fixing harness wires now.
Ymeski, I think I have all 4 awg on positive and negative cables. Do both need upgraded? Solenoid opened up when it cooled down, should it still be replaced?
Joedaddy, any progress with yours?
Thanks for the help all.
Ymeski, I think I have all 4 awg on positive and negative cables. Do both need upgraded? Solenoid opened up when it cooled down, should it still be replaced?
Joedaddy, any progress with yours?
Thanks for the help all.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Yes on the 2 awg upgrading if you want to be done w/ the problem. Also the solenoid, as once it's fried closed once, it's predisposed. I personally think it's in the starter electrical components, but after upgrading the wires, most end up getting years more use out of the same starter.
For lack of a better explanation, the larger wire buffers the high amperage draw when the starter is momentarily engaged. Allowing the solenoid to be less of a weak link, taking less of the brunt of the engagement.
If you've ever melted a chunk of steel on a tool or part of the lug of a solenoid when manually bypassing (jumping) the solenoid, you know the amount of amperage your dealing w/ ain't pissin w/ the puppy's!
For lack of a better explanation, the larger wire buffers the high amperage draw when the starter is momentarily engaged. Allowing the solenoid to be less of a weak link, taking less of the brunt of the engagement.
If you've ever melted a chunk of steel on a tool or part of the lug of a solenoid when manually bypassing (jumping) the solenoid, you know the amount of amperage your dealing w/ ain't pissin w/ the puppy's!