Hey guys, I'm new to this board and this is my second posting. I'm from CT and drive a 08 Ranger 4X4 with a long bed.

I'm thinking about rustproofing the truck and have thought about doing it myself with some of the well know products out there but I wonder if I would be able to do a good thorough job.

I contacted a Well known place (Z) that does rustproofing, undercoating etc and I'm getting a price of $300 and another 200 for the inner panels which would give it a 10 yr warranty.

I'm looking for thoughts and suggestions on what would be the best way to go.

Thanks, Dan

 

Hey Dan,
Welcome to the Ranger fold!

Here are some thoughts:

-- If you think you'll get your $400-500 investment back out when you go to sell the truck, realize now you won't.

-- If you don't plan to keep the truck for more than 10 years, you probably won't realize any difference in body protection. The factory does a lot better job corrosion protection than they did 15 yrs ago.

-- If you plan to make any modifications to your truck, you'll quickly realize that the rustproofing is a royal pain in the wrench when it comes to bolting and unbolting stuff and making any additions/splices into the factory wiring system, because the undercoating is all over it.

-- The rustproofing will make it quieter.

-- Lastly, I'd suggest you try to locate someone who had the same rustproofing put on their vehicle 5 yrs ago and ask to look under their vehicle to see how well it's working/holding up.

Good Luck!

BarnieTrk

 

You make some good points there.
some time ago I bought a Chevy pickup that was a left over from the previous year and I went and had it undercoated by Tuff Kote shortly after buying it and it didn't do me any good on the re-sale 4 1/2 years later.

I heard spraying the under body with wd 40 would help it protect it but I can see that being messy too.

I got an idea from a friend who said brushing asphalt foundation sealer on the under body was good and that it was the way it was done years ago.

I'd like to what it looked like before doing any of these tips.
Dan

 

There are two problems you need to consider.

1. You will need to thoroughly clean the underside of the truck, especially all the little nooks and crannies where two pieces of sheet metal come together. Those are the places where rust is most likely to start and are the hardest to clean. Dry thoroughly.

2. If any rust has started, the undercoating will cover it and will probably speed up the rusting process.

A few years ago, I bought a six month old car with 13 k miles on it. I explored getting it undercoated. One place said they would do it without any warranty. Another said they would do it, but the warranty would be only half as long as would be the case if the car was new. I kept the car eight years and only a few spots of rust were beginning to show - and that's after 8 Michigan winters where the roads turn white from all the salt that is spread on the roads.

Long story short - I wouldn't do it.

 

Michigan66, it's not so much undercoating that I'm thinking about but rustproofing.

Maybe, just by washing the underside and treating the areas of surface rust that may pop up with a rust converter that may be enough to keep it in good condition.

 

I coat the underside of my Ranger twice a year with Fluid Film. It is a great anti-corrosive, does not attract dust and does not have the damage trapping issue mentioned for undercoating. I believe with the modern production methods now used including the treating of the sheet metal and the plastic liners used in the wheel wells that non-surface rust is not much of a concern for the Ranger [and other vehicles].

In my view there are three areas of the vehicle where surface rust is a concern so I'd recommend keeping an eye on these. Two are basically the same, the bottom of the doors and the bottom of the tail gate. The outer sheet metal is basically folded over the inner to make the seam. Water splashes in these areas while driving so especially in winter weather areas, when the moisture will have road salt mixed in, that degrades the seam and they will rust. It happens before you know it because you never have a particular reason to look at these areas. My solution-I ran a bead of caulk across these seams, primed and painted.

The third problem area for rust with Rangers is the front radiator support panel. It can gets stone chips then you have the same exposure issue with it from driving with splashed moisture and salt. Once again, it is not an area you look at so the rust starts at one of those chips and starts to expand. It is pretty easy to keep after it by removing the front grille. On most Rangers that is attached with some screws and plastic push pins, so it comes off fairly easy. I pull that off once a year and take care of any damage I see. I coat it with the Fluid Film as well.

Last tip-keep the weep holes in the bottom of your doors clear so that moisture doesnt get trapped.

 

customstringer, thanks for the tips. This Fluid Film, do you use the aerosol spray, the pump, or do you brush it on, also, what are you using for caulk?

 

+2 for Fluid Film.

Just spray it on

 

I buy two versions of Fluid Film. The aerosol can because it comes with the small extension tube, so it can spray into tight places. But it costs the most. For the big underside job I buy the gallon and I have a compressed air undercoating spray gun. You have to have an air compressor for that method, but you fill the bottle on the gun, hook up your hose and spray at a low pressure [like 35-40 lbs.]. This is much more economical and undercoating guns are pretty cheap. Here is one: Eureka Fluid Film Spray Gun Applicator But, since you have the gallon of the stuff, you could brush it as well. The downside of the spray gun is it doesn't atomize as well so some's going to get on the floor and you will be mopping afterwards since it is slick.

For the caulk, I just used a high quality paintable latex in gray since I planned to cover it with gray primer then paint over it. Since you are talking the underside of the doors and the tailgate, even though it won't be a perfect match, most likely you can find the corresponding spray can match at the parts store from the paint code on the door sticker and it should look just fine. Get one of those plastic trigger spray handles that notches into the top of the spray can, makes the can work more like a spray gun and saves your finger.

 

I want to thank you for your help and the links. Now I think I can tackle this.

 

I use Rust Check, a product that is probably similiar to Fluid Film. It is a thin oil that will creep/penetrate into and protect the many crevices, folds and seams of my truck. My spray gun can be fitted with a long flexible wand that I can snake into hidden areas. I give the Ranger a good once-over every year. For a few days following a Rust Check treatment, it drips out and makes a mess, so I have to be carefull were I park.
Rust Check brand name, protect vehicles appearance, proofing companies, manufactures rust preventatives, manufacturer of coatings, manufacturer of rust paints, manufacturer of lubricants and auto repair industry
...Terry

 

Thanks Terry. I'm not sure if I like the dripping oil idea. LOL
What year is your Ranger and how long have you been using Rust Check?

 

Mine is a '08, got it in Oct of 07. I applied Rust Check the first week I owned it. The dripping is a bit messy, but it is creeping into the very spots were water creeps into and starts rust. I think it is a good way to keep my truck in good shape.
...Terry