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Actually, with my 15" Explorer rims I experienced my first fender rub on a drainage pothole. The front springs need replacing because I think the previous owner was a bit obese in body weight. The drivers side is sagging, and the drivers seat is worn down to the springs. But the passenger seat is like new.
Ok, so I got them cleaned and discovered my old clearcoat is still in really good shape, so I left it alone. I will post some pictures later. I went with 215/75 R15 tires, Arctic Claw. I will switch over to an all season tire once the snow danger has passed.
We put a set of Hankook tires on our "93 4 years ago. At least 3 of them have developed problems. The dealer, Big O Tires, replaced 1 under warranty a while back. I think the tread separated. Another recently developed a soft spot and bulge in the sidewall. The others have cracking in the sidewalls and tread like much older tires than these should be. Can't say I'd spend another $400 for another set. Since this van is being "semi-retired", I just picked up a couple of decent used tires and rims at the salvage yard for about $50 total.
Primewell still offers the 215-70-14 size. Check with your Firestone dealer. I think we paid $50something each, and got a buy 3, get 1 free deal a year ago. Some farm and home stores also sell them.
Ok, so I got them cleaned and discovered my old clearcoat is still in really good shape, so I left it alone. I will post some pictures later. I went with 215/75 R15 tires, Arctic Claw. I will switch over to an all season tire once the snow danger has passed.
Too wide of a tire. You are going to have tire to fender contact issues.
I double checked all that before I bought them, there is lots of clearance everywhere. I chose that size because another user on this forum is running that size on similar rims without issues. Here are my promised pics.
I like the look, they look truck-like. Makes the whole van look a little more serious. I double checked my speedometer afterwards. If I set my cruise at 70 mph, according to my GPS (which is very accurate, most GPS are) I am going exactly 70 mph. So no speedometer calibration issues for me.
Yeah, I checked all around, there really aren't any clearance issues that I can find. The closest it gets is on the back, and its really got a fair amount of room there. If I hit a bump really really hard taking a turn, the fronts might rub, maybe. I might add 1" spacers on the springs.
So far the ride is good, and the weight handling seems good. They are a lot quieter than the Coopers I was running, which is nice.
Thats what snow tires are supposed to look like. I am a firm believer in running season specific tires. AWD can help prevent you from getting stuck and can help you go, but when the weather gets nasty, AWD does not help you stop or maintain control when maneuvering. Bottom line, your connection with the road is still the tires regardless of how your drivetrain or brakes are set up. Snow tires are designed to get optimum traction under cold conditions, and are designed to grip in snowy and icy conditions. All season tires are designed to have a long tread live and to be a compromise. Compromises and safety in adverse conditions don't mix well. You want maximum safety, go with a tire thats made to handle the conditions you deal with. I will swap to an all season tire when warmer weather comes in. That way, I might get a couple years out of the snow tires.
Looking good, Khan
Your winter tires are even slightly taller than the Douglas 215-70-15's I'm running (here in So Calif we don't get much season change between rain and sun burn...LOL). I'm glad you decided to give the 15" wheel switch a try, the Aero's really should have came with them as OEM........it just makes it look more like it should IMO.
I've been running 15's for many years now and I still get questioned by other Aero owners around town regarding what year they came with those wheels and where can they get some
tires that work well on black ice have far different design criteria than a "snow tire".
acutally, the AWD system in the Aero does help icy road handling and safety if used corrected and prudently. It affords some drive train drag braking on both the front and rear tires while slowing.
Can't beat power on the turning wheels for handling and directional safety.
handles much better in slushy icey snow snot on pavement than my heavy 1 ton Dodge Cummins 4wdr with hd winter mudder lugged tires
off the pavement in mud/snow =s different story.
different design focus on 2 different rigs for 2 different purposes
I'm running 215/70R15s off of an 88 Grand Marquis (panther - crown victoria & town car are the same) with no problems except a little speedo calibration, but I was running 215/75R14s and that's almost the same.
They came off of a car in the junkyard, are nearly new, and with no dry rot. My cousin got the front clip off that car for his (all around good day yesterday).
The 14s were separating in the rear (tread coming off in places making the van shake it's booty), and the fronts paid the price for not having a good alignment (which has been fixed).
I had the same problem with the used tire shops not having any, even though they raid the boneyards and take them all. I found them for $73 each plus shipping (worked on tirerack.com for 215/70R14s. Hope that helps.
I scrounged through my hubcaps and found a nice set of dog dish caps from some 60s Ford car, painted the wheels black. Since the van was white it made it look like some kind of cop wagon.
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that, would you? I bet that looked like hotness.
Next on the list is to upgrade my rear brakes to discs. The front brakes normally have to do almost all the work, my brakes were changed with all Bendix parts last summer, and the fronts are glazed over and will need to be replaced soon. I have to haul weight, and that is taking its toll on the brakes.
I'm gonna run the Lincoln MarkVII brakes on the rear. I'm rounding up the parts now.
One important thing to consider i you switch to alloys. Alloy wheels need to seat properly, so the lug nuts need to be retorqued shortly after they are installed. Otherwise the lug nuts can loosen and the wheel can come off the vehicle. Just install the wheels, drive a little way, then retorque them. I learned this the hard way this past week. I had them installed Thursday before this last, lost a wheel the following Monday. The shop did tell me they needed to be retorqued at between 50 - 100 miles. I had gone more than 50, but less than 100 miles. This issue is less problematic on a steel wheel.