2011 Firewall Passthrough
#1
#5
I found a nice place to poke through. The big gromet right above the brake pedal has a protrusion about 1/2 inch that protrudes toward the engine bay for about 1 inch. I clipped the end off and it's perfect for pulling a 4 gauge wire through. They may have put this there for that very reason is was very simple.
Thanks for the replies!
Thanks for the replies!
#6
the 99-10s had a awsome huge hole covered by a sticky cover on the upper left of the firewall, in '11 they made this hole very small...maybe 1/2"
what we at work do is holesaw out the 1/2" hole to 2" to make enough room for everything we've been installing in these trucks. makes it much easier to work with. my only complaint with the '11's
what we at work do is holesaw out the 1/2" hole to 2" to make enough room for everything we've been installing in these trucks. makes it much easier to work with. my only complaint with the '11's
#7
They'll take around 100A each if the if the length is less than 10'...
A 10 awg type TW or MTW COPPER wire is only good for 30 amps max.
In order for you to power a 100 AMP device you will need 1 awg or larger.
Not trying to be **** but advice like that can destroy a vehicle or cause loss of life. Please don't offer this type of advice unless your sure of the information you are providing is correct.
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#9
#11
Wire Gauge Amps Ratings for 12 volt Automotive Systems
while I agree with the posters above, this was a quick and dirty source,
...one of 5 that all agreed with each other.
keep in mind also, that automotive (stranded) and house (solid) wiring are different.
while I agree with the posters above, this was a quick and dirty source,
...one of 5 that all agreed with each other.
keep in mind also, that automotive (stranded) and house (solid) wiring are different.
#12
The chart you provided is very aggressive and much higher than most anyone would recommend. There are different current ratings for chassis and power applications. Chassis wiring current ratings are generally not a constant load, so heating isn't an issue, power applications assume the load is constant and that the cable will heat over time. It is best to go the conservative route. That chart lists 10ga for a short run at 200A, and I just cannot agree with that at all since it is 5X what is normally recommended. I work with large 3-phase motors and drives and in the 200A range we're looking in the 00 to 000 range.
#13
I agree with cartmanea on this one. I don't know what idiot came up with that chart.
I have been in the electronic/electrical industry for 30 yrs and everybody i know and deal with follow the NEC (National Electrical Code) That is the bible. House/power/control or otherwise.
Solid wire VS stranded has the same rating per wire gauge.
I have been in the electronic/electrical industry for 30 yrs and everybody i know and deal with follow the NEC (National Electrical Code) That is the bible. House/power/control or otherwise.
Solid wire VS stranded has the same rating per wire gauge.
#14
Solid wire VS stranded has the same rating per wire gauge.
You've also mentioned that the NEC does not make any distinctions under 100' in length, which is far more than any automotive application would ever need. On that chart notice, also, how quickly the gauge increases with length.